sbelyo

Well, I could add 200 and get RS2is I don't have any way of hearing them before I buy em but I like my 225is so reading reviews is all I got for now I did take eat quite a bit when selling my headphiled K340 but I sent them to him to improve the sound and he did do that. They just weren't for me.

based on some other reviews I found they seem to improve the sound and comfort. In my case it may be worth it because I will pay nothing for the sr325is (cashed in CC rewards points)

He is certainly a bit rough in his way of business with others that I have read. But I can say that he has never given me any problems. I own one pair of Darth Beyers and have owned K340's done by him. I was always satified with the work and the sound siganture was exactly what I was looking for. Really I was just looking to have the comfort of the Beyers with the sound of Grados

I am thinking about sending a NIB pair of Grado 325is to Headphile and have them made into Vixens. Do any of you have a pair? If so, how do you like them compared to the unmodded unwoodied Grados?

oh, yeah I see it now. So the difference it the output transitors and onboard heatsinks?

PM lil knight he may still have a set

par-metal looks like they're taking orders once again. The website changed a few days ago. It says a 7-10 week lead time. I wonder if they're sourcing it out until they're back up all the way

I'll be using a 10K balanced volume control. Balanced gain will be 10 by changing R52, R56 to 50K and C1, C3 to 5 pf.

thanks

for the 0.1 uf ? is polypropelene ok for C2?

looks like I missed R47,R48 1M and C2 0.47uf when ordering my parts. But when looking at my boards I noticed a pair of capacitors that seem to connnect to the power legs of the servo opamps. the board says 0.1uf What type should they be? Also I'm going to assume the polypropelene is ok foor C2?

Here are the pics

Thats a good read... essentialy that's what pcx has done already. It's supposed to arrive tomorrow so I'll try and get some pics asap

I dont think I'm gonna touch it for a while. It has the same opamps and output caps as my old player so with the added upgrades on top of that I'm thinkng it should be ok for a while. If I did, it would be a clock upgrade with seperate PSU. Plus I have to finish my Dynahi Ver. 2.0 There is a point of chasing the white rabbit so to say. So if your ears are happy then let it be until there's nothing left to upgrade

I figured that

Do I want to ask what this is, or will I be hazed again?

Yeah, it's me. I never did get around to finishing the CD-Pro2M transport from diyhifi.net so I had to buy this in the mean time

My heavily modded Philips 963SA was acting up so I just pulled the trigger on the Music Hall CD25.2 player that PartsConnexion had in their autumn sale for $499.00 w/free shipping It has their level 1 mods: RCA jacks upgraded to Vampire Feet upgraded to sorbothane Chassis deadening Cap and resistors in output stage upgraded to audiophile level Output op-amps upgraded to OPA-627 Diodes and caps in PSU upgraded as well. Will post pics when it arrives

I need help deciding the gain and volume control values. I know that when you go blanced the gain is doubled. My first question is, what is the default gain when following the parts list? what resistors control the gain? I have Grados as well as high ohm cans so I need to find some sort of balance between gain and volume control knob sweep. Normally I use a 50K volume control but that only gives me less than half the knob sweep when using my grados with my original Dynahi. For that build I left the gain stock. I believe it was 10 or 11 I can't remember.

Got all my parts and boards ordered... Parts Bill so far is around $500 but this includes PRP resistors and a pair of Sigma22 board along with their components as well. My plan is to put the PSU and xformer in it's own case so there's some added expense in that. By the time I buy 2 cases, panels from FPE, and a volume control I would think I'm into it for just about $1K Could it be done for less, yes but I'm letting FPE and Par-metal do all the casework. I just don't enjoy that part anymore plus I want a gold point attenuator this time around. I figure go big, or go home

It's low 30 volts. I think I'll go with the amphenols. Thanks for the link

No speakers connected that way. I forgot all about those

ok, so I've been looking on and off for the last few days and I'm wondering what everyone else is using? I've looked at the amphenols, but what confuses me is the price point. I only need 6 connections and metal is not necesarry, but if the price is the same or close to plastic I'd go with that. Any reccomendations that Mouser would stock?

got it. we don't need them because of the opa445 can handle the 30 volts with no problem right?

I'm going to use the opa445 so I can omit the 7815 and 7915 regulators correct? If so, do I have to jumper the holes for the regulators or can I just leave them unpopulated?