JoaMat

Oh! I forgot Kerry’s micro GR - that would really be something. Link

Well, I changed the voltages as said above on a T2 PSU that is a bit different from the original. I used those lower voltages for my T2 for some time before I built mini T2 and it worked great. So if you dare to lower the voltages on your T2 PSU and remove the 7812 and 7912 and put in the https://www.amb.org/audio/sigma78_sigma79/ set to 15 volts. Then you have an universal PSU. I haven't tried AMB sigma78/79 in T2 PSU but someone has to...???

I’m using a modified T2 power supply. +250V reduced to +220V. +/-500V and -560V are reduced to +/-400V and -460V. +/-12V increased to +/-15V. Filaments as original. But the -400V is not used at all with this amplifier.

A very early layout attempt. Have to figure out how to spread the parts. Board size 2.65in x 0.87in.

Increasing trimmers resistance always increase corresponding side’s current and vice versa. If upper trimmer (ksa1156) increases corresponding side’s output voltage increases and the other decreases. If lower trimmer (ksc2752) increases corresponding side’s output voltage decreases and other side increases. So far I’ve preadjusted all eight trimmers to the same resistance. Resulting in roughly the same current of all for channels and in an output voltage of some positive volts - all good and not needing any further action. To me it has been a bit tricky to turn all trimmers to achieve better balance and offset than when the preadjusted.

OK, now I’ve reached further. Replaced all eight 2K resistors with 2K trimmers. Makes it easier to change the current. Set at 1.6K current start at 2.5 mA and climbs to 4.5 mA. IMO it’s still an interesting amplifier and I believe it’s possible to build an all SMD version.

Reduced the 2k resistors at base of input transistors by 100 ohms steps. 1.7k give approximately 7.5 mA and I have decided to keep it there until further…

Thanks folks. No matching. I use our kitchen table as workbench and to avoid some nasty conflicts with wife….

Nice! and thanks for files.

Modushop heat sink 300 mm X 80 mm and Modushop Galaxy Maggiorato front and back panels. I buy them as spare parts. Brackets and aluminium plates for top and bottom I get from a local shop. I've drilled and tapped M4 holes at both ends of heat sinks to fasten the panels. Below is a board attached to 200 mm X 80 mm heat sink - temperature stabilazed at about 50 degrees Celsius. With 300 mm heat sink temperature stabilized at 42 degees. Current stabilized at 20 mA with resistors as silk screen.

Amplifier built on Gary’s (congo5) boards. I really like this one . Cheap and easy to build - and it sounds really good.

More Sort Guld. A Søren built amplifier is easily recognized. Very nice!!

Nice work indeed. I like the two box approach. The transformers – are they DIY made?

Maybe one could change resistors on Alexey’s board to achieve -20 V.

Happy Thanksgiving!

What is the thing with relays between the amp boards? Indeed a nice and interesting build. Great work. ...I’ll go to Biltema tomorrow and check what acrylic they have.

I don't remember, but capacity is 3.3Ah when new. How much is the current of the mini?

Found this in closet. I guess it’s some kind of charger I built a couple of years ago. Six Mean Wells and charger regulators and each cell has his own charger. Red light will probably turn green when fully charged. I don't remember but I will see in a couple of hours.

I used the battery pack summer 2016. LiPo 6 cells, one pack each rail, give you some 22 volts reduced by the regulator. Those LiPo packs are used by RC people. I bought from hobbyking.com.

See below.

I’m sorry, but - I will not compare my, in kitchen made, amplifier with the famous DIY T2. One way to compare… well, build one – it’s fun. Schematic above.