spritzer

We sure know how to party!!!

This has a lot more to do with pricing than anything else...

This is a curse, every time I say "ok, time to sell all this shit I never use" I'm up to the same number again in a couple of months. Hell, I just paid for a SRD-X Pro and a SR-Alpha Pro Excellent and I have no idea why I bid on them... DIY is much worse. Those Mouser orders really add up...

Happy to help.

Never seen them like that. Screams fake to me...

Here is what I got from Wachara: DIY electrostatic drivers for my HE90 frames.

Happy Birthday Jacob!! I baked some bread for you but I ehhh... ate some of it and sold the rest.

*Looks to the left* Yup the silver BHSE is stunning.

The DRV134 is a POS and causes far more issues than the slight loss you get with the natural phase splitting in the HV. Just make a RCA-XLR cable with the - grounded.

Vents above and below the boards to ensure maximum airflow.

My HV doesn't run quite that hot, about the same as the standard KGSS. To lazy to wire it up and test though but I did take a lot of care with cooling the amp boards.

The T2DIY is indeed 100% a Stax design on the amp side. Our version is miles better in terms of noise, stability and is actually run at full power (not 50% as Stax did) but the design is 100% theirs. What's in the PSU box is all Kevin's work.

The internal filaments you are referring to are the output tube filaments? They are referenced to the - power rail so a small trace will not cause any hum issues. The tubes are rated to 1.5A but there is always some variation so I always overspec for at least 10%. I'm using 25VA transformers to drive them in this amp. Each of the front end tubes draws 300mA at 6.3V so 1.3A would be good for the front end. I highly recommend DC for this role though. My Megatron boxes just arrived but I'll probably not get to do any construction for a while. Other stuff to finish first...

Stranded copper wire for me, some is silver plated. I really don't care about this any more...

Great review and I felt compelled to write a bit as to why it's important to open the amps up a bit.

Same here but I've switched to shielded mic cables for input wiring in the last year. The difference is miniscule so no damage at all.

I got some HD650 capsules as a gift from a certain headphone manufacturer (long story) which I've now turned into a HE60 with some reconditioned parts. Not easy by any means and holy hell they are bright off the B-10 amp. I just love how this amp draws out every small annoying characteristic and just pushes it to the front to really annoy you...

I like that one, nice and straight. Are you using plugs to ground the - input for RCA use as I can't spot a switch anywhere?

Should be just fine but I'll report back on any issues. I'll be using the 80mm Galaxy cases so it will be a tight fit.

The potential on the filament is quite high so the transformer has to be close as it possible. Remember that the cathode of these tubes sits on top of the output tubes anode so there is a lot of voltage there.

It sure does.

It's best to ground the input when adjusting offset and balance but in reality it makes little difference. Just turn the volume down and you'll be fine. Input resistance doesn't matter for the amp and you always ground the - input for SE.

Never use Holco in any high voltage circuit and I'd stick with the Xicon's. Mouser has free international shipping if you order for 100$ or more....

I believe the 4-gang can be ordered through the distributors as the new Senn amps use them as well. I didn't want to deal with all that so I went the Alpha pot route.

I wouldn't even think of cramming this into a single box. It can be done but it is a pain to mount toroid's upside down... As for cost, well that's not something we care about at all. North of 1K$ at least, just the tube sockets are 100+$, tubes 2-300$, transformers another 250$ and the list goes on and on. Still this is BH level of performance so it will wipe the floor with pretty much everything out there. It will also look rather menacing...