In that case is just a crappy T-amp sold for way, way, way too much money.
The batteries are also something I don't get. People always focus on the "no noise" and look past all the issues normal PSU's don't have.
That was indeed my point. Btw. Here are the switches in question:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/508476101/LA19_AJS_LED_illuminated_switch_push.html
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/485100004/IP65_Waterproof_Black_metal_Push_button.html
I don't think anybody reads the spec sheets on those sites but these switches are indeed rated for 250VAC/3-5A. I own a bunch of those you linked to and if they were rated at 250VDC then they wouldn't have stood up to years of use at 230VAC...
I got mine from FrozenCPU (it's a latching unit since I'm going to run the 230VAC directly to it) but these are just cheap Chinese switches these guys repackage. You can find them on Alibaba for around 60$ for 100 units which isn't a bad deal IMO. They are pretty cheaply made but easy enough to replace should I ever need to do so.
Thanks, I'm really happy with it. Especially now that I've fitted everything to it and that brilliant Headamp volume knob.
This one will certainly be sold some day since I'm going to build at least four of these... Which one I'll keep I don't know but I think I've cracked how to make the smallest offboard amp possible so that one will probably win out. It will require custom PSU PCB's but I have an "in" with the designer so I'm fairly sure that can be arranged...
Indeed.
The IRC RC55LF's at Mouser could work for through hole resistors. I'm sure some Vishay's will work as well.
Crazy audiophiles may think Neutrik isn't the best but they are just idiots.
All these do is ground pin 3 so custom cables are easy to make. I made one for the T2 before I went and defiled the chassis with a range of connectors and a switch...