spritzer

Looks like Sherwood may expect a healthy dose of Icelandic music he can't understand...

A SR-007 style chassis would probably make them even moar awesome but also rival the Rudistor tit-Anus phones in terms of size.

I'm first going to test the new C- supply (which eliminates the offset) and get rid of the channel imbalance when used in SE mode. After that all bets are off as to what I'll do to the big hunk of fail. Speaking of gain issues, I wonder why Woo didn't just put in some transformers instead of an active phase splitter. Probably more expensive then a couple of tubes plus some random parts but it could be a neat solution to the ES-1 issue. As for the SR-Omega, I'd only buy another if it was broken to try and figure out how to make them work again. I only lack a chassis though to make my own. Perhaps I should bug Stax and ask if they have one sitting in a corner somewhere...

I needz to know more about dem fuzes!!! I just got a crazy idea though... the ES-1 has 4 octal driver tubes and 4 EL34's so why not turn it into a WES? I know I'd never buy one and I'm going to build another ES-1 anyway...

Happy Birthday!!

Reading this makes me appreciate the cooler climate up here even more. I can wear the SR-007 with Mk2 earpads for hours on end...

Well, your always hearing the source so it shouldn't be discounted.

I loved the SR-Omega off my old BH (even better match then the SR-007) so the BHSE could simply be too transparent for them. I definitely prefer my new BH to the old one with the SR-007 from memory and that could be due to the increased power of the newer amp. I need a SR-Omega to really be sure...

Tell him to remove the PCB cover and look at the actual windings. If they are ok then he can just hardwire it: 240v: Blue+White wire from the AC plug Purple+Gray

Welcome to my world. I'm capped at 80gb but they go fast...

I need a picture of the taps but it looks like there is a missing wire @ the nr.5 slot.

The WES would certainly give you a different presentation from the BHSE but it will not be "better", even with you tube and cap rolling until you are blue in the face. It might work better with the HE-90 and SR-Omegas of the world since true wire with gain isn't what they need. The one I have was a gift from Afrikane that I really should finish fixing one of these days...

Happy Birthday!!

Happy Birthday!!

I just got my VC99 and first impressions are good. The build quality is pretty good and the screen is nice and clear. It also handled adjusting Stax bias just fine where most cheap meters overload the bias supply and thus give the wrong voltage. Looks like Marc has nothing to fear from me...

Toshiba has some cool N-channels (2SC5563 for instance which goes in the upgraded KGSS) but no P channels to match.

The Blue Hawaii is the ultimate amp for most people. It may not be the end all amp it would take a lot of money to make something noticeably better. What I'd like to see is just how far we can push SS amps since the BH and T2 take good care of the tube side.

Two and on the AC and the smaller ones are for the HV PSU

Great impressions but now we need detailed internal pics of both sides of the PCB so that we can know what Stax really did in this rather rare amp...

Happy Birthday!!!

Justin would have to confirm it but the BH design calls for the tubes to be run at 20W each.

I'm in

Ditto but I will change it to a BNC soon. BNC input on my Audio Sector Dac1

Not well enough apparently since the SP motto was to have at least 2 joints (insulation optional) in any length of wire...