spritzer

Sorry for the late reply but I really needed those 12 hours of sleep. The SR-007 isn't for everybody as they don't add too much color of their own. I'm sure the ES1 and 2 sounds good but do they have enough power for the two Stax phones to fully break away. We are talking about the two things that go mixed up in the Rudistor thread on HF, i.e. technical ability and how it sounds. The stock BH works fine for the SR-Omega but needs more power for the SR-007 so it needs a better PSU, bigger CCS and maybe some new output tubes. It sounds great now but there is always something missing. So I need to start planning an electrostatic meet soon, huh? The 4070 is one hell of an headphone and I would certainly rate it on par with the HE90, HE60 (each with own strengths) with only the SR-Omega and SR-007 doing better. It's analytical without ever becoming sterile and the lack of bass bloom makes it very easy to discern the smallest note. At 700gr they sure are heavy but very comfortable although I wished Stax had designed some Lambda style leather pads for them. Her summerhouse is close to ours so you could have a place to rest nearby while stalking...

I'm definitely getting the SR-007A and the other Stax phones I lack but after that I'm mostly done. I'll continue to search for obscure headphones few even knew existed as that is one of the only fun aspects of this hobby left. The one last thing to do is build the best amp I can to drive my collection.

Good to hear. Mine are still pretty much unchanged as I simply like them too much the way they are. Perfect for computer duty.

How is the SR-X Pro??

An upgraded Blue Hawaii would be my first place to start. I've spent some time recently chatting with an ES-1 owner why impression of these phones are so different between the amps and it must be down to the basic design. I've even been toying with the idea to buy a used ES-1 and compare it but I'd rather spend the 3k$ on building a new, souped up BH. I don't want to derail the thread but since I've been shifting my focus in the hobby recently this issue has been bothering me as to where I should go.

It's a good tube for just that, massive amounts of SET power. I've been looking into the deHavilland amp for my upcoming speaker rig and there is a reason why it sounds like that... the parts quality is awful. They are cheap so that was a given but some more life could be squeezed out of the beast. Btw. I have this itch to see what the GM70 can do for the SR-007 through custom transformers to replace the need for output caps. Who needs lights when you have four GM70's in a row... The 1.3 grill will have a large impact on the sound as it reflects part of the backwave. It would be much better to use some damping before the grill but that would result in a sound similar to the Lambda Pro. You really need to hear the SR-007 and SR-Omega out of a real amp. The ES-2 might be expensive but I'm not sure it cuts it...

Dual mono supplies with a single amp section. I like that he used GM70's in a headphone amp as Lamm is charging 100k+ for a similar amp for speakers...

I changed my mind after I started to make my own... see the Stax thread...

I'll have one as well...

Ditto. I've been working on a review of the whole Lambda line for over a year now and it's mostly been an overview of the history and what changes were made with a few impressions thrown in.

The whole SR-X line is great and there is the Stax SR-Lambda, Lambda Pro, Lambda Spirit/Pro Classic. Lambda Nova Basic and SR-202. If you want some more bling then the SR-5NB is a sure choice.

There is a lot of hype surrounding this player right now and that is usually my cue to run away. It is said to use an algorithm to make it "sound good" and use 32bit dacs even if they don't use the only 32bit DAC chip in existence. The processor they use as a dac might be 32bit but that doesn't make the signal 32bit.

The Fischer connector isn't cheap and it should be easy to get an adapter cable for something like 150$. Moon Audio sold them and some others as well.

It only takes about a day or two to throw together a simple tube amp. An Egmont or even something half-way decent...

The HE90 needs a capacitor coupled and rather warm one at that. The older Stax tube amps are a good place to start and with some basic mods can make them very good. I much prefer my modified T1 over the Blue Hawaii for the He90. The SRM-007t isn't as good but as a cheap option it is worth it.

LOL!!!!

This is crap IMO. The review is spot on and is a benchmark against all others should be judged. The reviewer has been in the headphone game longer then most (search Headwize for his posts) and has a clear understanding on what makes them tick.

Since I finally have some stands display my collection on I thought it would be time for a picture. I need about 20 extra stands to finish the job but I'll get there. The rest of the collection is scattered over the house. Pictured are from left to right, back to front: Top shelf: SR-Lambda, SR-Lambda Pro, Lambda Signature, Lambda Spirit, Nova Signature, SR-404. The reserved space is for the SR-SC1. Middle shelf: SR-Sigma, SR-5 NB, SR-003, He60, SR-Sigma Pro Bottom shelf: Beyer ET-1000, Fostex T-50 Mk1, He90, SR-Gamma Pro, SR-Alpha Pro Excellent, SR-Gamma, SR-X Mk2, SR-X Mk3, SR-Lambda, SR-3, SR-5, SR-3 New

I wonder sometimes how many of those saying that the "balanced amps" are the second coming have heard phones driven by a good, powerful SE amp?

Thanks, I think I'm up for it.

More current brings more control over the driver but the problem with speaker amps is the excessive gain and that they are designed for a 2-16ohm load, not 300. Noise is an issue unless you use resistors to lessen the load.

It sure is. I need to fins a SRM-T2 one of these days... \

For 15k I want a quad of 845's with 45's as drivers, all transformer coupled. There is also the Morgan Jones 845 based design to consider aka. "The Beast". No teflon for me if I can get away from it. I'll take the slightly duller sound of oil over the sheen of Teflon any day. It's a shame Jensens are so horribly unreliable or they would be a contender. Very cool... Welcome to the dark side!

It really is the best review ever written. I think I have it in pdf form and I'll try to find it. Edit: Found it... The O1 vs. O2 comparison is right on the money as well. Read it here.

A capacitor with a resistor across the leads maybe? I've never really thought about it... What is the impedance of a 120pf capacitor at 100v? Doesn't everybody have a spare HE90?? I can't see no reason to use them... I ran up the numbers some time ago but I believe the V-caps would be close to 800$ (less if you skip the input caps) and the Mundorf closer to 600$. Add to that Riken resistors, all silver wiring, RK50 pot and a new tube rectified PSU and the Aristaeus can reach new heights in cost...