Pars

I used knobs from eBay seller AudioGD and liked them quite a bit, finding them to be nicely finished. 25mm is about as big as you can go on these; might get away with 30mm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Nate. I ll consider those, but a bit pricey since i would also need the plugs...

Don't adjust the pots with the servo 0R jumpers in; normally this is done without. And yes, those look like good results. What does the other channel look like?

Yep, when I tried the onboard regs, I had problems getting the jumpers to bridge properly as well. They do go to ground, and anything going to ground on the 3oz boards was a problem, particularly if you were trying to use a sane tip size for the application. The tab on O23 looks a bit light on solder... looks like you used hot air and paste on most of the SMD?

I guess I might as well post this here: I have a pair of HifiMan HE4XX (Massdrop) which use the 2.5mm connectors on each headphone. These are crap, and cut out if I move my head the wrong way, etc., so I was toying with replacing them with something better. I was wondering what other connector types people use, either with experience on commercial headphones, or DIY, and how they like them. I have tried the Mr. Speakers Hirose connectors (on a pair of Aeons) and liked them, but wanted to ask around as there might be something better that I am unaware of. I have also used a Switchcraft mini-XLR 4 pin on my modded Fostex T50s, but for the HifiMan wanted to stick to separate cables to each cup as they are stock. Plus for something that is around the same diameter as the 2.5mm jacks currently in the headphone cups.

I wouldn't worry about that offset. I would adjust the trim pots a bit. The channel layout, looking at the top of the board from the front is: L- L+ R- R+ The two pots by the LEDs will adjust the overall offset for its respective channel. The other 4 pots will adjust the channel it is nearest to. If you have two meters and can watch the + and - of each channel at the same time, that would be best, as the pots will have some effect on the opposite + or -. Don't go overboard in adjusting trying to 0 everything out. As the amp heats up, the channels will drift without the servos in place. BTW, how did you do the onboard regs? Hot air station?

Those fuckers don't number their pins though...

What is the accepted std. pinout for team 5 pin? Use the current 4-pin pinout and add the gnd on pin ? Or? 1 - L+ 2 - L- 3 - R+ 4 - R- 5 - GND EDIT: Shure does it this way for the VP88 Pin 1: Shield/ground Pin 2: left channel + Pin 3: left channel - Pin 4: right channel + Pin 5: right channel -

Yes to most of it. For the LED resistors, which set the bias, I used 422 402R with LTST-C170CKT Lite-On LEDs. This gave me the 14-15mA bias. Running 402 422R with these LEDs will give you 12-13mA. You're going to try doing the onboard regs? Good luck, though the 2oz boards will make these easier than the 3oz were.

I'm using 10K pot with JFETs (Linear Systems). Batteries have noise as well, so if it were a GRLV, I'd be tempted to think it would be superior. Never tried it though. Can you fit the batteries in the case? And what would you do as far as the power switch goes?

Happy Birthday Marc! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday Dusty!

Build a Carbon... done.

Happy Birthday Peter!

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday Carl!

CSO Mahler 3 Awesome!

Yes I can spare 16. PM me.

Yeah, those seem to be a problem to find right now. I don’t know that I would trust anything from eBay. How many do you need? I may have enough that I could spare some. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is wrong with her current MacBook Pro?

^ this. Very sorry Craig and Carole. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday Wayne! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday Jim! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I personally like Panasonic FR or FM, but haven't built this amp. Something that fits properly would be a good start. Right lead spacing, etc.