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Everything posted by Pars
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10K. 100K would be completely unsuitable. Since this is a balanced input amp, you would need the 4CP. Kevin's amps, particularly the higher end stat amps, aren't a project you want to cheap out on. I agree the Alps RK50 is expensive though.
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Thel in Germany carries the TKDs... http://www.thel-audioworld.de/bauteile/regler/Potis.htm Otherwise, Japan pretty much.
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Happy Birthday Colin!
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Happy Birthday Steve!
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Hey Ryan, I'd definitely be interested in going. Chris
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Yeah, Shar tools look nice. They’re only 10 miles from me and we go up to St. Charles fairly frequently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Kevin retired from Northwestern a year or so ago, so none of those links are active anymore. Files are available here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B7egryukiT7_TFlEQlBRejdVdDQ Board files here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_iJFfZStuVhSE5nOHBVdTByR1k Normally, the stax mafia circuit board thread, which is a sticky here, is where you find this stuff.
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RIP actor Albert Finney. Always liked him and his roles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Happy Birthday Jeff!
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Some interesting reading (didn't read all of it though). Bruno Putzeys knows his shit. MQA seems to be a farce.
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Nice! BTW< your workbench is FAR too clean (note to Pars... clean your shop).
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My full size SS Dynalo (thru hole MPSW parts) runs fairly warm at 17-19mA bias, but nothing like mini warm. I haven't cased it yet (this winter), so I'll see what it is like when cased. Here is the link to the spreadsheet I created for tracking what users are using for bias and what kind of heat they are seeing: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1D5LDuRdupZRoWR-GfAd03fkFSBAMY4-E_VcYfCAI1Z0/edit?usp=sharing I don't know if HC allows sigs or not, as I thought if they did I would put the link there so it didn't keep getting buried.
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I would measure the bias on every 20R resistor and go from there. Note I did say every, and I wasn’t joking. I have had bad solder joints which effectively took a transistor out of the mix; these looked good to the eye, so you need to make sure they are all working correctly. Normally on a full size Dynalo I like ~17mA bias. On the mini, because of the thermal considerations, 15mA is the highest I would go. 13-14mA would be a good target. Sub 10mA is very audible, and too low in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yeesh! Hope it doesn't go any lower Jeff. For your neighbor's sake ?
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RIP Jessica. Sorry for your loss Dusty.
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They have both the replacements in stock -200,000 of each or more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I thought it was either the Xicon 271 or 273 series resistors that we’re used for the electrostatic amps? I could be wrong/behind the times... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Happy Birthday Mike! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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and now for something completely different part 3
Pars replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
Look at the schematic. The ones opposing are the pairs which should be matched if possible. It isn't critical however. Reading through the thread oftentimes finds the answers to questions as well... -
Happy Birthday Grahame! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Sorry for your loss Al. Sounds like a neat guy. RIP George! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Really nice Søren! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yes, the ES lead spacing is larger, so I'd need to see if those might work or not. Otherwise, I guess I'll use the UVP. I measured the voltages for the issue where it showed 40V rails using 35V caps. It is ~29V (though might be higher at initial turn-on surge), so I think 35V caps will be fine there. The preamp is working fine, but having this occur made me think I might want to get proactive about it. Cost is under $70 to do all 73 or so caps, so other than the labor (and of course the opportunity to brick it), I'll go ahead and do this in the near future. I do think I will discontinue leaving this on all the time however.
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I just noticed that one of the cap types on the amp section is a Nichicon VP bipolar type. What would you guys use for bipolar application... It is 100uf/25V, 3.5mm lead spacing, so unfortunately this is too much for a film cap of some type.