Jump to content

Mach3

Returning Member
  • Posts

    103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

1,244 profile views

Mach3's Achievements

Limited Edition Bronze Participant

Limited Edition Bronze Participant (4/6)

48

Reputation

  1. Thanks George, As mention in PM seller stated it was working as the way I got it. Which makes sense because just swapping the brown and the grey still provided 120V with the jumper B on 1-4 & 3-6. It just doesn't give out 240V when I shorted out 3-4 because the two primary 120V wouldn't been in series.
  2. Ok found out the reason why fuse blown. primary and secondary winding was wired incorrectly to the terminal block. Grey and brown mixed around. I need to replace the transformer, did a continuality test on P1 and it failed. I tried to contact [email protected] at Toroidal Engineering Co. But GeorgeP inform me it looks like he's close door since COVID. Anyone got a spare one for sell? @Kerry do you mind sharing what specs you're using with your transformer. Alternative route I get toroidy custom make one base on the correct current specs below. They made a custom one for my KGSSHV. Kevin mention that the total of the primary winding should be 90watts, so would 0.5 amp each for P1 and P2 be enough. P1 = 120V, (unsure of current rating) P2 = 120V, (unsure of current rating) S1 = 15V - 0 - 15V, 1 amp (Kevin provided these rating) S2 = 6.3V, 5 amps (Kevin provided these rating) S3 = 6.3V, 5 amps (Kevin provided these rating) S4 = 6.3V, 2 amps (Kevin provided these rating) S5 = 6.3V, 2 amps (Kevin provided these rating)
  3. @jamesmking The amp been sitting gathering dusk for a while over 12 month up to 24 month. All tube been replaced with new quad matched one. Maybe the initial draw is too much. Thanks @Kerry for clarifying what type of fuse to use, I'll replace the fuse with a new one and see how it goes. If it doesn't blow I'll replace it with a 2A fuse.
  4. What is the correct value for the fuse in the DIY T2, Kevin stated shouldn't be no more than 2A. However in a much more recent post, Kuen used a 5A slow blow fuse. I'm using the same amp as Kuen, built by George. The amp I'm using was from US with operating voltage set to 120V with a 4A slow blow fuse. I've change the operating voltage to 240V (I'm in Australia) using the same fuse. After turning on the unit for about 40 seconds, I see the tubes warming up. Then the power went off, no pops, not burnt silicon smell, just a blown fuse. Any advice would be much appreciated on what fuse to use. I've got a bunch of 4, 5 & 6.3 amp fuse, just not 2 amp fuse. I'm too paranoid to use any of the 4, 5 & 6.3 amp fuse.
  5. Long overdue update. I ended up sending my panels to Kent at Electrostatic Solutions 2 years ago. Cost was very reasonable, Kent gave me detail instruction on how to put the panels back and connect everything back up. I also took detail picture and notes as well before sending them off. It was about 3 weeks turn around. Spoke to Kent on advice in regards to proper amp to power them, safety mod etc. The stock safety circuit resistor 2W 12Ohm needs to be swapped with 10W 12Ohm to prevent the panels from arching. Causing holes in the panel's membrane. Tube amp are best to drive them due to the speaker impedance curve. Kent mention he uses the ARC REF300 300 watts to drive his F81 and F83 (Basically 2x F81 stacked 3db louder lol) He can achieve 98-100dB peaks before clipping about the limit of the F81 design. I'm using a Primaluna Premium amp 8x KT100 which output about 100watts. I get about 92db peak. The speaker are very touchy with placement. but are absolute divine once position correctly. Can listen to them for hour with no fatigue what so ever.
  6. Can buy a Merc with that collection...
  7. I'm sure if you're patient, Birgir will buy an X9000 and tell us all how good or shit it is, maybe even pull it apart. Birgir still got a few SR-Ω lying around to compared?
  8. X9000 because it tops the 9000. X is eXtreme version of 9000. It nice looking and all but I don't get why they didn't bling it up a tad. Where the plain Jane headband meets the gimble with Stax lettering and indication of left or right. Or maybe ditched the stainless steel all together with full carbon all round for weight reduction.
  9. Would have preferred they call it SR-ΩX to pay homage to the original. Anyone with the Ω planning to get the X9000 to compare?
  10. You're not pull hard enough hahaha
  11. The cables looks like they're detectable, got photo of them detached?
  12. ohhh.... portable carbon level for my Shure KSE 1500 me hoping.
  13. I know caps have about 20 years life span, didn't know that applied to mosfets too. Or is it longer than 20 years?
  14. The people that made these claim obviously believes in fairies. Anyway, statement or claim made by Cheap Fi Man should be taken with a grain of salt. First example, a lot more people prefers the HE-1 over the Shangri La Sr. After hearing both, I can concur as I have heard both at a dedicated headphone store. In regards to Susvara reaching the resolution of the 009, hahah that's Crap Fi Man marketing and fanboi at work. As an advice, trust only your own hearing. Everyone hearing preference is different. Some people prefer 007, some prefer 009. Regardless how good something sounds poor build quality has no place in my book to commend 4-6k and above. It would be very hard to find someone with the financial backing to get all these expensive gear to properly test and compare them. Not to mention even if you have funds, some of these uber summit fi stuff like the DIY T2 are unobtaniumly rare. Which is likely the reason why stuff like this aren't discuss or bought to light often.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.