luvdunhill

hm... I'll probably just use one of these: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-100656.pdf and the recommended switch for that part. Then just drill the panel with a simple through hole that will accommodate the above part. Then I can attach a PCB to the back of the panel and then adjust the height of the entire assembly via standoffs until things feel right.

so, the actuator is a similar stepped shape with a hole to accept the end of the tactile switch?

2N silver wire?

my heater beast of doom is nearing completion... swt61 got to catch a glimpse of it.

Pars: good point, but I think Neutrik plugs should have no problem fitting, as they designed the sockets as well well, still cannot decide on 1 or 2 box, so why not have both options? Seems nice and versatile. Final panel attached. Am I missing anything? On to the front... I would probably have the PCB be attached to the rear of the panel with some momentary tactile switches. Thus, I'd like to find / make some nice metal buttons, but not sure how to go about laying out the panel. Would I just drill out the back of a small cylinder and press fit it to the tactile switch, then have that poke out through the panel? Seems like a flange would be nice to hold the button in... what is the best way to go about this? Preamp-rear-final.txt

you dodged my post quite nicely over at Head-Fi in the DIY section. All of a sudden the KGSS is cheaper and easier?

so, FPE got back with me.. they can go all the way to 0.5mm, given the fact that the shapes used are circles, and the pattern I used now I just need to decide if there is a good reason to go single case over a separate case for the 2 r-cores and 2 PCBs. Now that I have my Tangent LNMP, perhaps I'll put it to good use and measure the difference(s).

That's the distance specified by Neutrik if using the PCB mount versions of the A, AA, B, BA series connectors. This will leave 1mm of material at the narrowest point. At some point I asked FPE and they said 2mm was the minimum they'd recommend, but they had instances of people going lower with shapes other than rectangles.

so, I'm working on a rear panel for a preamp. I'm going to use the high-density Neutrik XLR connectors and some nice compact RCA connectors. So, what do you think so far? (rename the .txt to .fpd to see the entire panel, not just the subsection that the .jpg is zoomed in on) I still need to add a umbilical cable connector (6 conductor) and a barrel jack and tidy things up a bit... Opinions? Preamp-Rear.txt

So, 47k will just be no loading resistor. I still recommend including a 100 ohm option. I'd recommend a quick read of this for everyone: Hagerman Technology LLC: Cartridge Loading Also, I forgot to include the RIAA resistors in the above BOM for PCx and it seems that PRP doesn't carry some of these values. Some are available in Holco though. Another option would be some Roederstein Resista from Percy, or perhaps he has the required values. I'm still investigating this. Main issue seems to be the 500R R19 value.

I'll have some-a-what he's having...

Pars: Thanks for the recommendation! All: So, I ordered the parts tonite. Total order was around $800. I had to add heat pads for the TO-220 devices to our order and I'll throw in the nuts, bolts, isolation shoulder washers and lock washers... I also decided to use something else for C4 and C6. Since some people are using larger capacitors, it would be nice to scale up the bypasses. Also, the speced capacitors don't fit very well, so I decided to use BC1626-ND for C4 and BC1631-ND for C6. I think MKT will be fine here. If anyone objects, I have some of the Panasonic P capacitors in various sizes and can put something together for you. After talking with customer service, they are going to hold the order until I tell them to release it. They say that P3884-ND should be in stock "any day". This is the only back order item. I also got the remaining 5 or so P3864-ND (1%) and added enough P3473-ND to match the remaining value for this spot in the RIAA circuit. Time to sit back and wait for PCx to announce their specials and wait for the parts to arrive at Digikey.

Hey, can anyone take this web page and generate a graphic for me: Fax ordering form, thlaudio Print screen and then pasting into a document isn't working so hot for me

a few things. First, the 35mm diameter caps are too big to allow proper airflow around the R2,R3 resistors that will be dissipating some heat. I'm going to have to change to 30mm caps for those with the upgraded kit and I'll keep the 35mm 22,000uF cap for the off board smoothing cap. Also, Digikey is out of 2 important parts, namely C12 and C13 for the RIAA circuit. Part numbers are P3864-ND and P3884-ND (Panasonic 1% polypro caps). I'm not sure where else you can even order these parts, but I'd like to keep the 1% tolerance if at all possible. I have everything added to a cart so we need to decide what to do about these important, missing parts. Looks like they are expecting them to be in stock around 08/28/2008...

Thanks Pete. I use around 150 ohms for my LOMC cartridge. A maximal set of values would be something like: 47, 100, 470, 1k, 10k and 47kΩ 0, 100, 270pF, 370pF and 470 pF Perhaps you can check around and see what other phono stages use? For the type, either mica, or the same Panasonic ECQP(Z) caps would be fine. What do you prefer? If you want some snubbers, I can do that. I usually use BC Mono-Kap and probably have a strip laying around somewhere I can include if that's okay with you.

this is really a taste issue. I find that bypassing the reasonably priced Mundorf M-Cap (or perhaps even better, the biggie box caps like Rifa PHE450 (yum) or Wima MKP4 / MKP10) with something nice is a reasonable option here, hence my default recommendation of the M-Cap with Russian teflon bypass. Depending on the Zin of your preamp / headamp, you can go with something lower than 10uF as well, so keep that in mind. I've also used Black Gate N (flame away for using a electrolytic as a coupling cap) with good results. The Auricaps are a good recommendation, as are Multicaps, or the Zen capacitors from North Creek's going-out-of-business sale. Outside of the above recommendations, I don't have much to offer

good idea. I'll add those.

I almost bought some of those, but was worried that they wouldn't fit. What type of filter is this? seems interesting Either way, I'd just use these: Relcap RTE Capacitors they come in the size you need and are physically small, and they sound great. I'm not sure how many you need, but for less than a fiver they shouldn't break the bank. I can even pick some up for you at PartsConnexion and send them with your Pearl parts if you'd like to save a bit on shipping.

yes, that's more or less true. What about Ebay? I've dealt with tubehunter in the past and he has 2 of the box type for sale right now. What are you looking for, perhaps I could hook you up?

probably a nickel allergy, as I have the same issue. Very common these days, especially with people of German / Russian descent it seems.

here are those LCR caps I referred to: LCR COMPONENTS | MKP/HR 10000PF +/- 1% | Capacitors | Passives | Newark.com

PartsConnexion part list: RCA jacks (2) CONNEX-68140 earth post (1) VAMPIRE-55449 capacitor clamps (2) CLAMPS-58847 coupling caps (2) MUNDORF-71340 R1 (1*2) <user value> R10 (1*2) PRP-50038 22K 0.25 Watt R12 (1*2) PRP-50026 4K7 0.25 Watt R13 (1*2) PRP-54542 1K5 0.25 Watt R14 (1*2) PRP-70167 1K0 0.25 Watt R15 (1*2) PRP-50051 100K 0.25 Watt R27 (1*2) PRP-50045 47K 0.25 Watt R28-R31 (4*2) PRP-50001 22R 0.25 Watt R4,9 (2*2) PRP-70165 221 0.25 Watt R5 (1*2) PRP-53818 3K3 0.25 Watt R6,R7,R11,R16,R17,R18,R20,R21 (8*2) PRP-50032 10K 0.25 Watt R8,R25 (2*2) PRP-50000 10R 0.25 watt I think this could be considered a minimal list. Cost including a few dollars shipping for each individual is $3 (shipping to me) + $16.80 (resistors) + $17.30 (capacitors) + $25.25 (jacks) = $62.35 * 1.03 (PayPal) ~= $65. ** Don't send me any money yet, as I'm waiting to see what goes on sale at PartsConnexion on the 1st and we will see if we can save a bit more. ** I also have some Russian teflon bypasses to throw in as well. Parties interested in other coupling capacitors, contact me. All that remains is the 2sk170BL / 2sk389BL. I'm considering just offering a matching service and giving you 2 matched pairs and 2 matched quads of the Linear devices, or 2 of the can LSK389 and you can play lead twister. I can either sell the new Linear devices to you (I'd probably recommend getting 20 or so) or you can buy matched Toshiba devices from Jack (see somewhere in the thread). I should also have some matched Toshiba devices if you wanted to get them from me, but I'm going to charge about the same he does (minus shipping of course). Matching the quad is not necessary, but should improve noise and if you wanted to lower the ballast resistors you probably could get away with it. What does the peanut gallery say? Sorry if my initial estimate wasn't spot on. I tried my best. If you'd like to source these parts yourself, feel free. No pressure, just trying to make things easier for people.

PMs sent out for Digikey parts.

no I can only do so much my friend. I don't think we could have gone cheaper on the case or toroids. Just choose the simpler PSU version option and I'll continue to try and hit your cost target.

the first thing on the PCB is a series resistor. So, you'll need either 1 cap off board, or remove this resistor and use the first cap on the board as your first smoothing cap. There is a separate schematic in the service manual that shows this. More or less capacitance is not an argument I'd like to have. I did double the capacitance in my Xono clone and it had a positive effect. Not as much as tweaking the RIAA circuit or even bypasses on the main board. Downsides would be more inrush current to deal with, and some people think that things don't sound as "quick"... YMMV, but there are 2 options and feel free to go either way. If you want something else (like the 2" tall stuff) just send me part numbers. sure, I can throw some in, or pick from Digikey. I'd place it and the necessary resistance after the first cap on each psu. sure thing! You can do things Manley style, have at it I use dip switch box (for lack of a better term) on my Xono which works well, but in my case you have to open up the enclosure. Using selector switches would be pretty nifty. no, I chose this bridge because it's easy to mount and has fast-on tabs. If you want to go with individual diodes like the CREE zero-recovery Schottky, or Fairchild Stealth, do it... they don't need to be heat sinked, but you'll have to build out a little PCB for them to sit on. I don't see why not, but you may need to add some holes in the top and not stack the boards. Feel free to shoot me any part numbers you're interested in and I'll add them to the list!