luvdunhill

yeah, I'm still working on the jig. I can test 3 x 2SK170 at a time now and 1 x 2SJ74. I can match Vgs at varying currents as well as measure Idss. I need will order parts to get this up to 5 and 5 (the board will look a lot more crowded at that point). I can also order the zener diodes as well. Anything else you think is lacking from the kit at this point? side note: I think I'm getting better with using the flash on my G9... what do you think of the pic?

They are one of those "don't ask if you cannot afford it items". I think the standard D9nf are around $7k a pair and depending on options, they can fetch double that.

replacing a few resistors

looks good. So the zeners won't fit? That sucks. One tip for the loading resistors. Go ahead and bend the resistors and stick the pins on them, and then solder them in the board. Makes things much easier. I use a clip on heat sink to hold one pin while I solder the other.. I'm sure other more specialized tools can be used as well. Also, your heat sink is upside down edit: stick the zener in the battery holes, I bet it will fit there.

nope.. I guess peoople are having issues with the cleaning fluid getting on the labels? I don't really see how this could happen, as there isn't anything mechanical that would mess with the labels... as for the VPI, yes you can do 2 mats. It didn't work for me, as it's hard to store the mats in a way that they don't get contaminated. This was the problem for me at least.

yeah, i have a NG 2.5Fi. No issues at all with it being messy, all self-contained, so this must be a complaint with the cheaper NG models.

Try to hear these: http://www.feastrex.com/ Sorry for your wallet in advance, though....

I had a VPI and wouldn't own one again. In my opinion, it's a flawed design. First, you put a dirty side down on the mat and clean the top side. Then the clean top side goes right back down on the dirty mat. Everyone disputes this, but I compared side-by-side to my current RCM and it's night and day. Whatever, I have no desire to get into a pissing match over this, but usually VPI (not RCM, all VPI products in general) buy one then tout it as the greatest thing ever and really have no basis for these claims as they then refused to try anything else. Anyways, I would look elsewhere.

slang for a head-fi member.

I'd think this (rather new) sentiment is only really held in the electronics side of the house. For speaker crossovers, I don't think anyone would dispute the benefits of bypassing.

Steve: Looks great!

nice! I think depending on your setup that the weight is absolutely necessary. I have a blob of blue tack on top of my cartridge and have no doubt that the improvements of the SB would be well worth it, as it has in the past for me.

he already has a top-of-the-line phono preamp*, why would he stoop down to this level? assuming the gear in his sig isn't totally made up..

I thought about that, I think that's a limitation to the AVC approach but not the the TVC approach. However, I found a 50/50% Permalloy and Z11 core that would not have the same saturation issues as a 100% Permalloy unit. I have an e-mail off to the manufacturer, so we'll see what he says. Since my power amp has no voltage gain, I think I may very well run into this issue.

only 60dB gain? For many, that's not enough gain for a LOMC, not to mention something in the 0.1mV range. The Xono with 76dB gain and for example the Klyne phono stages at 66dB+ gain are more suitable if one wants to avoid transformers all together.

60 Step Naked Vishay S102 resistor modules (as used in our TAP resistor Pre-amps).....$260 Those look like reed relays perhaps?

I'd buy an Ono and "update it". The circuits are very, very similar and the difference are well documented (by me).

don't forget there are 2 types of ModWright caps, the M and the T. The M Series Capacitors are made with a proprietary oil-impregnated metalized polypropylene dielectric with pure copper tinned leads. The T Series Capacitors are made with pure Teflon film and copper foil. You don't see the second label, but that's what's going on here. It's more obvious in these pics: http://www.modwright.com/pdf/ModWrightCaps.pdf Also, a general link on bypassing that's useful: http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Bypassing.html

deepak: nah, just get an Xono. It will handle down to 0.1mV fine. Remember, the specs of the Xono are at maximum output which is 20v (!). That being said, if I had to go the SUT route, I'd go with the CineMag. Torpedo: Just FYI, S&B will not sell direct to DIYers anymore. Also, Bent Audio is using the Slagel units now and are going to be offering a line of modules for DIY use. The resistive relay attenuators look very nice, and will be the upscale competition to the likes Twisted Pear Audio and Dantimax. I'd expect the new items to be only their website any day now (ooh, some already are!)

Fing: Are you looking to sell your TVC? I might be interested Although, I contacted Nickolas and he's willing to sell me the balanced TVCs naked for DIY use

Any reason a TVC couldn't be used between a preamp and the amplifier itself? Kinda backwards thinking I suppose ... but it solves the SE -> Balanced problem that AVCs have to deal with...

well, feel free to experiment. Since this is a phono stage, input and output connections should be as short as possible and power should be routed away from things and kept as short as possible as well (including connections to toroids, diode bridges, and the like). If possible, it would be nice to separate/shield the toroids more. Perhaps a tuna can or mandarin orange can could help shield them?

Thanks! were the AVCs wired for gain, or were they used passively, or in front of a preamplifier? I cannot seem to find pricing on the Tributes, so I've e-mailed them...