luvdunhill

My work is done.

I was thinking Eucalyptus

heh. okay, since you spoke up Current wall color is this: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6204#/6204/?s=colorDetails&p=PS0 Suggestions from here? https://www.guilfordofmaine.com/patterns/2100 I'm thinking something that is a near match or would blend.

Things are sounding much better - I really improved the stereo imaging in the process. I am probably going the GIK Acoustics route next - ordered a Gilford of Maine swatch book to pick out some fabric... I also have some ideas on how I will permanently integrate the ULN-2 into my system, now that I am comfortable with it. It sounds quite nice. Final graph - each line is combined stereo from the listening position (the difference between the lines was some experimentation with two different phase plug configurations on the Lowthers) Hoping to smooth things out a bit with treatments and trap the heck out of the bass.

For science

I can't really get rid of that 100Hz problem with crossover slopes or frequency. I have somewhat addressed the channel imbalance though? I applied the mic calibration file, which really ends up showing a lot of high frequency attenuation in the final graph. I'm surprised about that. I also setup the automatic correction. Here's green is the right channel: Splitting it out (again greens are right), with Half-Hanning windowing:

The problem is that I have to physically move a cable to go from left channel to right channel testing :/ I was trying to avoid this somehow. Maybe hook up the other channel to the monitor output?

Thinking about this, I don't think it is possible.

ok, yet another question. So, I'd like to take advantage of the FuzzMeasure Automatic Correction feature. I have an extra mic-pre input I can use (analog input 2 via XLR). Where can I plug the other end of the cable to create a loopback? I'd rather not use the Analog output, as that's what I'm driving the right and left channels. Could I use the receive? If so, how can I assign a channel to that that can be selected by FuzzMeasure? I think there is some routing magic that needs to happen here.

Looks like a perfect storm. General channel imbalance as well as something happening around 100 Hz. The orange color is the left channel. Now, that is with the full-rangers and extension subs, two measurements (one per channel). If I split it out into four measurements and then a single measurement with everything on in stereo (the black line), I get: In this case, the left channel colors are "green" and "orange". So, I guess my question is, can I attribute this to the room, or is there something else going on in the chain....

Oh and one more question - what's the difference between using the monitor out and the analog out? The former has a front panel control and the later has a -10dB or +4dB attenuator, but are they functionally equivalent other than that?

I am sure that rating is generous as well

The advantage would be the ability to use my existing phono pre or the RIAA eq and in either case, be able to do digital conversion. I don't need any gain when using my external phono pre. I am doing a firmware flash as we speak and hopefully playing with this and some room measurements this weekend.

@ironbut Would it be possible to run my turntable into the balanced line inputs and then my phono pre though the analog inserts. Then I could set the line inputs to zero gain and engage the inserts to run through my existing preamp or disable the inserts to use the ULN-2 as phono pre?

I may take you up on that. Just ordered an LP so I have a shipping container. I think I have a channel imbalance. I swapped out my preamp 6SN7 (single gain tube for both channels) to a Ken-Rad black glass and things moved a bit to the right (and got a bit fuzzier). I need to make a few measurements, but too lazy now. I stuck the offending tube in a cheap B&K 600 and both sections showed about the same amount of "green" on the scale, but not sure if that means anything. The output is a split load inverter to convert to balanced - again a single tube for both channels. Not sure if an imbalance could develop here or not.

I consistently abuse the ratings as well. Using a 18VAC transformer with 25V caps on both sides of the CRC. The final voltage is around 26V or so. I bought some Nichicon caps and just didn't want to attempt the same scenario.. reason being, in the 25mm diameter you go from 22mF to 15mF if you go up a rating. Don't try that at home though.

Generally - OnlineComponents is nice for more expensive items.

Cunning linguist indeed.

Your lingual dexterity is amenable

I am a big fan of Panasonic snap-in capacitors, such as TS-UP and TS-HA. Sadly these are no longer being sold. As it turns out, OnlineComponents has a number of popular values in stock, including the 22mF 25V and 15mF 35V. So I bought some. You should too.

I have a PCB for the front power switch that mounts a LED in the proper spot, the rear quad RCA which breaks that into a header and a rotary switch for the knob that allows remote control of relays and some LED indication on which state the knob is in. I can post pictures this weekend.

That sucks. Those guys have been pretty easy to get a hold of in the past too. I have some small PCBs to use on the various switches and I/O jacks somewhere - if anyone wants them I can find them. Also, if you have extra pieces from that fourth chassis, I would be interested if shipping is cheap. One other piece of advice - use a smaller washer on the toroid. This picture will give you a hint why: (yes, that piece of copper is not insulated)

Here: http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/main.php?cat_id=1032&group_id=2&hit_cat=