MLA

Paid. Thanks!!!

paid

Megatron style +1

Another board suggestion: the PSU board for the tube based ubal/bal board?

+1 on the above. Have the LXminis and they really do disappear, and bass can be complemented with sub setup of choice. Stock config goes a long way though, depending on musical preferences.

Interested!

Interesting! So, (what at least looks like) the L700 drivers in a L300 housing, and at half the price of the L700 (on japanese sites)...

Most likely none. There’s a small chance that some come with non-working drivers, so if you are unlucky and get a bad one, then just order another

Only tried PC myself, but Mac options exist: http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F5U409/

SMT only. Yep, the serial port is a challenge. There are USB-to-serial adapters on ebay for cheap though; I've used those successfully in the past.

Nice! Have you been playing with the filters, or are they stock? Still got quite a few buffers left from the GB, so let me know if I should send some your way.

Definitely interested.

Nicely done! About accuracy: it may also be that you have hit the limits of your DMM:

Someone else on the forum (can't remember who just now unfortunately) recommended these for female pins: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pc-CMC-8P-Tube-Socket-Gold-plated-Pin-Hex-Snap-Hole-2x10mm-6V6-6L6-5AR4-6SN7-/130342224494?hash=item1e5900826e I've used them on multiple builds. They are tight so need a little pre-bending out before you put them in the connector, but work fine for me.

KG posted this long ago in another thread: STAX jack Imagine the socket as a 6 pin with the 6th pin missing, but at position 0,0 (x,y) The rest of the pins are at 0,. 2175 -.2175, 0 +.2175, 0 -.1087, -.1883 +.1087, -.1883 (in inches)

I think it depends on your preferred tonality balance. For me, the 009>>L700>>007mkII progression tilts the perception curve toward more bass and less treble. I think you're coming from the 507? If so, the 007mkII will likely sound most different from what you have now (but still great, I use those more than my 009's out of my Carbon).

So, presumably 1.5A per GRLV then (i.e. 3.0A for a bipolar one). That said, Sören’s suggestion above is very interesting! I’ll think about rebuilding my Dynahi Psu that way, just to try it out.

So around 2A in total (pos and neg rail combined)? If I remember correctly, Dynahi pulls about 2.4A in total (600mA per rail per board), so you'll be close to Dynahi levels with your next step Btw, can GRLV deliver that much current? I thought it maxed out at 1.5A, but maybe that was per rail, not total?

Nice! What’s the max current through the Sigma? Nevermind, ten seconds of research later I see it doesn’t have a current limiter Are you planning for dual GRLVs when running it at 30V, or is one enough currentwise?

@mdr30 arranged for a prototype to pass by Gothenburg for evaluation a few months ago. Transient response was very good but the frequency voicing was quite off; at that time they claimed to have voiced it for vocals which translated into a big upper mid hump that made it difficult to listen to. Mid-bass was also lacking. They claimed they would address that right away; apparently we were not alone in giving this feedback... They do however give a whole new meaning to the concept of open headphones Very different, but in a good way. At HD-800 price levels, it would be a contender. At 4K, not so much I think.

I agree. Built a 360-ish volt version before, so will do a 400V next time. For the record, as good as Dynahi and Dynalo are, the CFA2 is where I plug my dynamic cans in most often. Guess I have a personal preference for current feedback. Or perhaps more adequately, Kevin's current feedback designs are awesome

It is a great amp, fairly independent of price range I think (though 37K obviously is the Best Ever...) When I build mine, I only had it for a couple of weeks and really liked it a lot. Then a friend asked to borrow an e-stat setup so it went to him for further opinion. A month later he declared he’s not giving it back unless I force him to do so. Have to build another one I guess

Well, just checked mine and they are SZ2 - 2253. I purchased them on site in Tokyo in November last year from a music store. They were not in stock at the store, so these were delivered straight from Stax the next day. Unless someone kept yours in storage for a couple of years before selling, I'd assume it's new stock.

Can check mine when I get home. Bought them a little less than a year ago in Tokyo.

So, you are someone who actually needs a preamp To continue your DIY journey, this would be the time to build the KG ubal/bal board (check the thread). Gain of 2 into balanced, but can be set to taste by changing a couple of resistors.