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About tomislavkufrin

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  1. Question about MATE_N_LOK connectors from the Main PSU board BOM. Pitch = 4.14 mm? This one as a 2 pin example https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-770872-0.html
  2. Hm, it looks there was something else also causing the noise issues. Trafo itself was buzzing. I have removed the cover, now there is no noise on the trafo and seems that i cannot hear any noise on the headphones.. I will try again in the morning when there is no noise in the house but i think now it is silent. As i saw some scratch marks on the inside of the cover, it looks like the bolt was touching the cover and possibly making a shorted turn. Or i moved some wires and now it is magically better. Or both.
  3. My father told me that he cannot hear anything, but i can hear a very faint hum. There is room for improvement in my heater wiring. And i need to check if my soldering of socket pins is good. Better to ignore that question, i got confused about nothing..
  4. New tubes are in, 25V difference between + and - is gone. Works like a charm. Just for info, are there any other tube options that are not Tung Sol GTB, and not NOS?
  5. My mind tells me carbon, but my heart tells me grounded grid/blue hawaii. In the end i was thinking to make universal psu for carbon/grounded grid combination so i can have both. I think summed, this is again closer to the T2 budget. Then someone writes that blue hawaii is somewhere in between. Is this more like different shades of grey, or T2 is really that much better?
  6. I did not have problems balancing the driver tube plate voltages. Resistances are in 2500 +-200 ohm range. So, not to far off center. Looks like only that output tube is not matched well. Excellent, because i really like the sound
  7. Warm, i measured 8 hours after start. Value looks stable, i did not notice it change too much. I just do not like the numbers. I did exactly that. Same offset value, it just moved to the other channel. Next time i'll just buy everything matched.
  8. right now R+ to R- is <1V and R+ or R- to GND is <1V. And tends to stay like this. When i measure during the day R+ or R- to GND is around 0 +-3V. L+ to L- is 25, 22V, which i try to split in reference GND. Lets say L+ to GND ~= 11V and L- to GND ~= -11V. That is like a best case.
  9. What is the maximum voltage difference you can have between output + and - of a channel? 22-25 volts is still ok, or on the high side? Whatever i do with the pots it looks like this voltage difference is just shifting, not even changing. minimum i can get is 21V. I do not have this problem on the other channel. When i tried to swap them, i could again zero the offset and +/- on the "good" tube in opposite place. There are no sound issues but i would not like to damage the headphones.
  10. i would like to get in the group buy. for me please: 4x GRHVxxx 2x GRLV79xx 2x GRLV78xx 2x Main Board 2x miniT2 - bare boards.
  11. the chimp is re-listening his music catalog. this forum is a bit like AA meetings. except, instead to stop, people pull you in to do more alcohol.
  12. not the prettiest build, but i'm learning. goal was to make it work, and worry about the looks later. metal works was something new for me, you need to have good tools. these are my first two amps i have ever built. lower one is SS dynalo. edit: looks like i can upload maximum one picture(500 kb).
  13. for the moment i will leave it and enjoy the sound. hum is almost completely gone. if i make all the modifications immediately i will have nothing to do in the following weeks. also, my girlfriend will kill me if i open the chassis one more time to tweak something. i will try go get some higher quality/new tubes also.
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