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https://www.twitch.tv/philodox42 day early today, up until 9:30

Mics good enough to be worth it aren’t worth it if you don’t already have them.

Nice... Side question, this any good?

being retired means i get to do what i want to do and when. so the new thing based on the pioneer a09 (no not the a9) is also zero feedback, 120 watts into 8 ohms, damping factor of 100 and a thd about .001%. the absolute perfect thing to drive your lundhal electrostatic transformers. basically the exactly same ubal/bal to bal board in the cfa3, and then the high power buffers. pair of 30v 20 amp switching power supplies.

Congrats! Enjoy retirement. Still a Legend. ❤️

What about using a Jecklin Disc? Might be better for the speakers, or you still think this is the wrong approach?

Now it shouldn't come as a massive shock to anybody but I'm not much of a SR-009 fan. From day 1 they always sounded messed up to me and the BK and S didn't really make it any better, even a bit worse with the 009S. To this day I have only one 009BK (as it is a limited edition) in my collection and one regular 009 that showed up here randomly and was a stark improvement over all the other sets I've owned. No idea why those sound different but better not mess with them. Now the plan was always to do something with the 009's to improve them but there was always something better to do. Well with surgery pending a couple of months ago, I finally had time to do something not too taxing. First off I needed a donor set and here is where that came in: I got these three years ago and they just sat there in a box. Too many parts missing with no spares available, three out of the four dust covers were trashed and I took off the arc to rescue another 009... so a pile of parts with fucked up drivers. The plan forward was clear though, the drivers needed new dust covers, new diaphragms, a way to mount the cable and finally some way to attach the earpads which wasn't 009 levels of stupid. Now none of those parts could be reused or they simply weren't there so time to do some designing. I still suck at 3D design but practice makes perfect... or it should in theory. Now first off, dust covers and diaphragm holders. These are easy to do as PCB's but materials, thickness, films used etc. are all large variables. Here are my first drivers, actually using the third batch of diaphragms as I slightly tweaked the dimensions once I started test fitting: Those familiar with the stock drivers might spot the bias connection is very different. I had to spend a lot of time cleaning the stock drivers, as they had been open for who knows how long, but this first test was successful. Fully balanced drivers and no noises from them at all so they are as clean as I can get them. The dust covers are 2um mylar-C, just lightly stretched (hence the slight lines visible) and the main diaphragms are also fairly loosely stretched 2um mylar-C, then heat treated and given a coat of fabric softener. The drivers are easy to align but one major part of this project is to find all the correct o-rings used to assemble these and in the right grade. When I had waited a month for a large shipment just for the one size I needed to not show, I even bought some stupid expensive examples locally. That got me here: All new screws used to get the drivers into the housings. You can see how beat up the aluminum housings are but hey, fine for a project like this. Now there was the next difficult bit, the cable entry: On the stock set it is a plastic guide which sits in those holes, the cable fits in that and the whole assemble is screwed down. Now the stock cable I had was not perfect so instead of making my own version of that... I just used a standard Lambda cable. A L500 was going to die for this set anyway (as I needed the arc) so why not use that cable. Here is my solution for that: This is 3D resin printed and is the second revision. First was just to check for hole size, alignment and if it was fouling on anything but it was way too shallow. This version still had to be sanded a tiny bit but it fits nicely. I did make a 3rd and 4th version which is incoming to clean up the design a bit and give me some more internal room. The earpads above are simply stuck on with some blutack so more on that... For the earpad mounting, there two problems there really. None of mounting hardware was included and anybody who had changed the 009 pads knows just how fucking stupid that mounting setup is. I also wanted to use non Stax earpads (not paying 300$+ for pleather crap) so here is what I came up with: Same idea really but I added a spacer between the plate and the driver housing so there is room to slide the lip of the earpads underneath it. The two layers of the PCB sandwich are visible there (along with the production number as I forgot to have it removed) and it works nicely. I could have made this from aluminum but it wouldn't have cost roughly 4$ then... This is the fitment with some random test earpads and standard 1.6mm PCB's. Works just fine and I can't find any issues with baffle seal... quite the contrary really. So here we are, the MA-009 This set of earpads has already been replaced and it takes a matter of seconds to swap them over. What a novel feature... Now what was the true goal for all of this, well besides having some fun doing something new... make a set of 009's I would actually want to sit down and listen to. Now this project is far from over but here is something novel... a SR-009 that has some actual bass output. They are still forward sounding but it has been diminished by a large extent. I can use these for hours quite happily, even at my usually higher volume levels. The decision to use 2um mylar was to try and tame that forward edge and it has been partially successful. A stock set of 009's is terrible on most music I try them with, this one is mostly good with just some tracks which show how bad that stator design really is. There is this slight forward sheen over everything and it simply has to be the stators as the rest of the headphones has so much in common with the 007 overall design. Now the major issue is driver stability as the left diaphragm really likes to get stuck to the stators and I have to open up the driver to get is back on song. I might have gone too far in sealing them up but I wanted some bass dammit!! I will make some more test diaphragms and see if I can make some which can handle the pressure of going on the head energized while giving the sound I want. For now I'll just use this pile of parts to make some music... So to end off... if anybody has a set of 009's with blown drivers that are collecting dust... hit me up and I might want to buy them.

Thank you so much. How would you do the idea in that case? Try to take outputs and feed via cables? I'd be using the Behringer for mic, so not sure which Shure is best, thoughts? Also not sure why the dummy head would be SO bad, but I'll trust your judgement there.

https://www.shure.com/en-US/products/microphones/sm7db Know how good this is relative to separates?

My D200 is now over 20 years old, and while it shows its age, it still works. The 300 F/4 I keep permanently attached to it is from 1987, but it has aged like a fine wine. I use the combination to catch the local wildlife, usually without leaving my house. The "lawn crew." This is from September, and the Hathaway house has now seen major renovations. More on that later. An osprey looking for lunch. The corner of the mower shed is a prime squirrel snack bar. "I have an acorn, and you don't!" *honk* *honk* Canada geese don't actually like the pond that much, because it's surrounded by trees. They prefer Sweetened Water Pond, across the street. Even though it's a much smaller pond, it's open and they find id easier to access. With that said, the geese will sometimes slum it and land in Jernegan pond. The ducks are slightly more frequent in their appearances, but they too prefer the more open pond. A great blue heron taking off the moment he caught sight of me. Herons do NOT like humans. *gobble* Survived another thanksgiving. I took a bunch of photos of this fatso, but I've only one I've edited so far. Tune in next time for fall colors, antique lenses, and irritated kitties.

The sm7b is a fine choice for a podcasting mic with some form of cloud lifter or a preamp that can add 60+db cleanly. An sm58 is probably also good enough and doesn’t require the extra gain. recording speakers with a shitty diy head mic instead of just running the turntable into an adc like you’re doing a needle drop will make for an experience that is painful to listen to.

Well, there are true portable amplifiers, for example, the Stax D10, but its runtime is 3.5 hours. Which is pretty funny. This HVRV can also be used with some kind of 12V power bank of a similar size. But then we have to carry two boxes. And why do you even need portable amplifiers.. Almost all Stax headphones are open-back. Unless we using a Stax 4070. But I think only a few people in the world have such a setup. Probably no one does. It's much more promising to simply have a portable, small amplifier that we can easily take on a trip, for example, put in a suitcase. The 10 kg kgsshv is hard to fit in a suitcase. And this one is just right.

This short could be relevant for your interests:

i am retired now, 7+ years. And loving it. Due to arthritis issues i am no longer working on any more equipment. including my own. going to pay a couple of high-school kids to stuff and solder boards and chassis etc for new projects.

LOL, I'm dieing. Seriously though, what if I use a legally obtained skull and fill it with something the same consistency as human brain matter? Please comment more as that was entertaining AF. Lol That is a Roland R-05, though it does kinda look like an old flip phone

guess i'm trying a mix MELF/thin film

I think the metal film resistors will work, they're used on the cfaelectrostat board in google drive. It's quite a bit bigger and you need two of them for one channel.

then let's find some other kind resistors 😁

The thick film resistors are still bit of a problem cause of drift. Even with the dn2540, turning the trimmer a little too high or low will still cause it to drift.

For legal reasons, you probably shouldn't actually say it. Where you source the head is non of our business. Is that a flip phone strapped to a portable amp? I have no business commenting in this thread. Good luck with your measurements.

Given how good I think the A7IV is, this is something I'll likely look for used in a few years. I really believe the sensor size is pretty idea. The A7RV I get to use at work now is pretty amazing but the file sizes are enormous and I often don't need that much resolution even for large (30"x40") prints.

Cool! Sorry if I added to the mess.

Oh, I misunderstood.... So I need an actual human head. Is this how Frankenstein starts???? I have a polar bear named Baloo in Minecraft, if I get another one I should name it Grawk.

Love it. How are you doing sir, still teaching? Any chance you'd take a glance at my McAllister mess/amp? I'd love to give it a refit.