Salt Peanuts

Ditto. Also, be prepared to wait a bit. I've bought few things from Canada over the past few years, and I've had some items arrive in 3 days, while others took up to three weeks in transit.

Happy Birthday!

They changed the policy so that all feedbacks must be approved by the other party. It's idiotic, IMHO.

Sell your kidney.

I haven't sold that many items, but I haven't had problems with any of my transactions as the seller. Compared to listing items on HF (I've listed items at the same time on both sites), I received far less low-ball offers from Audiogon, though I still did get fair amount of tire kickers.

I was kidding with that VPI suggestion, of course. I do like my 16.5, though. Speaking of which, I need to get more cleaning fluid since I spilled the one I had.

http://www.vpiindustries.com/products_typhoon.htm

Oooooo, sure makes me want to get back into Stax game.

Speaking of Buffy, am I the only that preferred campy goodness of earlier seasons?

Finished watching the first season of Heroes last night. Probably will start watching the second season on DVR later today.

Wait, that color was even an option? I'm actually thinking of getting the LED on Gilmore Lite (assuming I keep it as my backup amp) changed over to orange, so it'll match the B22 and Vanguard II. I wonder how difficult it would be to change the one on 840C.

Dew eet! And let us know how you like or not. Though I must admit, "TUBYNESS" knob bothers me for some reason.

IIRC, I started out the 2007 with the following - Esoteric DV50 > ASL MG Head DT/OTL 32 > K1000/Ergo 2 Grado Gold > VPI Scout w/ JMW-9 > ARC PH3 > ASL MG Head DT/OTL 32 > K1000/Ergo 2 Ended the year with - Cambridge Audio Azur 840C (with or without Squeezebox) > Rockhopper B22 > K1000/K701/K271 Grado Gold > VPI Scout w/ JMW-9 > Trigon Vanguard II > Rockhopper B22 > K1000/K701/K271 At the moment, ASL amp is out getting updated/modified with decent amount of new parts and I'm still waiting for my SP K1000/power amp. Nothing new is on the horizon, though I'm curious about the buttonless RS-1, and I may get a better cart after I stockpile more vinyls. Also, depending on how SP K1000/power amp turns out, I may be in a market for a pair of high-efficiency speakers.

used Parasound P/SP-1500 to use with my TV/cable/movie/console game 2-ch setup in the living room.

That's what I hope I will be doing if/when I get my own place. We'll see, though. I may have a tough time letting go of K1000.

You should get one of these. http://www.walkeraudio.com/proscenium_turntable.htm

Should look at the pic, it's scary.

Nope, no audio gear here. I was hoping for an amp, but it didn't come. I did make myself a new audio rack, though, does that count? EDIT - oh, and nice haul on the mini Stax system.

No idea, but I suspect that would largely depend on the shelf size (and thickness) as well as the size of threaded rods you use. The most I had on one shelf was 50 lb, and I've had well over 120 pounds for a period of time. I've also sat/stood on my old one and it held perfectly fine - I weigh about 200. EDIT - As a some vague point of reference, Salamander Archetype, which is basically a commercial version of Flexy, has a shelf capacity of 150 pounds. It uses 23" x 16" shelves with 3/4" thickness (mine are 11/16" thick). Also, their rods are 1/2" diameter, IIRC.

Dave, if you're planning on building a smaller one (or other than 3 feet height), I suggest checking out the Mcmaster-Carr. They have everything you'd need for a Flexy, aside from MDF, and have threaded rods in variety of length. Heck, they even have threaded rods with Black Oxide finish. Of course, they're wee bit expensive (one 3' rod costs ~$50).

I had them cut. I bought a sheet of 49" x 97" and had shelves of 24" x 16" and 25" x 16" cut. The shelves on the left are 25" x 16" boards. Extra inch is there to compensate for the fact left shelves have less effective space since the overlap occurs at lower point in the shelf space. Thanks for the compliments, guys.

Oh, for those of you how may be considering painting MDF, one tip I got was to fill the edges (sides) with dry wall putty/compound then sanding them before painting. The edges/sides are more porous than already porous surface and they'll just keep on absorbing the finish/primer.

That's a thought, thanks for the suggestion, Nate. I'll see if there are any of them left, since I know at least two local hardware stores have gone out of business since Home Depot showed up on neighboring town.

Right now, there are no footers. I was going to use some acorn nuts, but I counted wrong and I didn't have enough on hand. I'm going to have to order them online, since neither Home Depot nor Lowes in my area carries them in the size I need. Very annoying. I thought about adding threaded spikes, but hassle involved with it - drilling threaded rods, finding spike-base so not to damage the floor - made me not do it.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, folks!