judo

Thanks. I red what you said about this earlier. I had to wait for PJ almost two weeks while he could get the phones. So I thought there was a possibility these are some old stock, probably not.

This is my hope

Got the phones in the minutes from PJ, I am not too happy because I wanted to buy the newest variation. Them got an SZ2 serial how can I decide it is a real SZ2 or not ?

I think our model is similar the Hungarian Post will do the shipping and the brokering probably. Thank you for the info.

Then EMS has won. My costs will be higher then we are the VAT recorder in EU. How did you pay? To EMS or to the custom office and when did you get the invoice about it ? One serious question remained how can I buy from somebody who does not contact with me. We will see. Thanks for the info. PJ was on a buseness trip why I did not get an answer. Ordered the phones.

I hope so Thanks. Are you from EU - here EMS cheaper ?

Good advice. But I need to get an answer from PJ first, I wrote to them again.

Thanks guys Now 3 to 1 for EMS but the europians(if any) count double.

Thanks! I do not get many answers lately maybe I question badly. I do not get answers from PriceJapan too after a day as they say on their site they do not speak english perhaps they can not write either. I was interested in the process for example how and when these postal services collect (or not collect, PriceJapan tells EMS does not ,I have to contact with customs) the VAT and duty in Europe, ... etc. That is good they are quick and you had got your headphones In Australia I got a few hundred dollars worth something from Vietnam by FedEx they brought to my door and I did not have to pay anything plus.

I am thinking about buying a "new" SR-007. Have you got experiences buying from PriceJapan in Europe? Any difference in shipping with EMS or FedEx except the cost? I would appreciate any piece of advice.

I thought so but this is too much to sell the "KG-version" or not ? Thinking about it maybe not so serious I do not know how much sending the gerbers to a pcb house and the quality is a question too.

Have you seen these pcbs ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZEROZONE-KG-version-KSA5-Headphone-amplifier-bare-PCB-PSU-PCB-L1510-13/121805396160?_trksid=p2060778.c100276.m3476&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140725133651%26meid%3Dbd07881e77664672af0485e822d617b0%26pid%3D100276%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D151270640351

I have been using a dynamite for about a decade. It is the first version with the 4 identical channels from the djgardner boards. It was built for the Akg k1000 and now I am using for the He6. The volume controller was a 24 steps stepped attenuator similar as Dact but cheaper. For a time it caused noise problems maybe the switch too that switched the single ended and balanced inputs. Now I removed them because most source has volume control, the quality much improved I am thinking about I only need 4 steps to reduce the volume with for example 10,20, 30 dB depending on the headphone k1000,he6,he500 etc. So the question is some 4 pole 4 pos shorting (not crucial to be shorting,or mbp ) switch sealed as good relays is this exists ? Because they say an only software volume control maybe dangerous as for example the direct coupled amps . (The same question about the 4pdt or 4 pole 2 pos input switch)

I would bet on that most of the head-case users have got head-fi account.

My deepest sympathy but it can not be 30 % or is it?

I know how VAT works But when you buy from a non EU country you usually can not buy VATless and you pay your own VAT additionally. I do not know the state of Mouser(there is an Europian subsidiary or not) and how its base price is calculated. Of course the real price is what counts.

Thanks for the answer. I ordered from Mouser a few years ago but I do not remember the conditions so your info is useful.. Rs is expensive I agree. That +30 comes from the VAT+duty. in my place. The costs depend on that too how many places you can get the parts from. This depends on the BOM and the question maybe for the building thread.

Boards have come. Packing and sending all was not a little work, thanks for it! I have not built any serious in the last years any clue sourcing the parts from EU sellers to avoid the + 30 % cost and the fiddling with customs?

There is a schematic about a 323 on the diy thread from spritzer 9 May 2014. I do not know what is the secondary voltage but I think it is about the same as of the Blue Hawaii amp (from Kevin Gilmore) so I think that bias supply should work, the psu is similar. You can find this on the unfortunately not living but archived first best headphone site, Headwize http://web.archive.org/web/20150314232458/http://headwize.com/?page_id=751. I have a kgss with this psu and I want to make a second bias supply too for I can change the bias independently in the two sockets. I have seen an srd7 and an srd7 mk2 (pro version) schematic here or on head-fi. I would see the sockets between the srd7 and the 323 are exchangable or not and I would make a pro bias for the srd7 perhaps.

Spritzer is the expert he can help right off. I have done the opposite made pro bias from a normal output and I will find some circuit in the web tomorrow.

What are you driving with your srd7 the sound may depend on the quality and the power of the amp? The cause of the sr-x modding is the original sr-x pro is very rare. To get pro driver is hard because the source for example the sr-gamma pro is rare too. And the diy game factor you can ruin everithing easily. The pro sr-x is better first in the bass but not only, but I never thought it will be my main rig. This is the Omega beleivers' thread and some of sr-009 converts' I only getting the itches now to try an sr-007 mk1 I have (cheaper) stax phones for two decades, then the sr-007 was cheaper too unfortunately. An other possibilites , If you are good in electronics you may build a normal bias circuit to your 323 but this must not be your first project because of the high voltage.

The less dangerous is cutting the stiches on the headband I think. Or remove one of the side plates (with the L or R on it) it is glued to the black block and then loosen the screws under it and you can pull out the pole I think but I never tried.

I had a normal bias sr-x mk3 too for years not much used and I always thought I would buy a gamma pro and convert it to a pro. A few months ago I bought the gamma it was almost as new except the headband dyeing (as spritzer usually tells), but with a serious imbalance. I let the bias on for a night but it did not get better even worse so I set it aside I thought I would inspect the holes on the diaphragm later. After a few days I tried again and the imbalance was smaller than I remembered then it got worse again. I thought it is not the holes or the coating but some contact problem. So I took apart the left driver the diaphragm was intact and I think the cause was the bias contact on the metal ring of the diaphragm I bent it a bit and the gamma lived again. This is the first thing why I wanted to tell this sometimes it is so easy. Then I had not the heart butchering this beautiful little gamma so set it aside again. Finally a few days ago I made the transplantation and the patient lives and sings so the ending is happy. Of course I have read all the posts about the transplantation on head-case and head-fi, googled a lot. I found the post from spritzer how "seal the baffle" with blue tack and it works the sr-x got better yet not only in the bass but at all. BUT !!! do not do this mod if you want to take apart your sr-x again because you can not. The blue tack is bloody strong maybe I used a bit more than needed. I almost ruined the headphones because I wanted to check something on the driver. This was the second thing I think it is worth telling.

Payment sent. Thanks

May I join for 4 caps or it is too late ?