spritzer

Mike liking the 4070 more then the SR-007 is understandable but a Lambda?? One more thing, not that there should ever be any risk of not being able to source a SR-404LE, the Airbow SR-SC1 sounds pretty much the same to these ears (from memory but compared against a common reference) so that's something to keep in mind. It would also be a great headphone to mess with the noobs as aside from the small sticker on the plug it is just a normal SR-404...

Red is indeed very cool. Kevin should be the first to fire it up and I probably won't be far behind. As for the BOM errors, there are no 6K8 resistors, instead there should be four 6k2's. The BOM listed 8*390K but you really need 12. You also require at least four more 10K units, probably more. Since it is such a common value it's a good idea to have some extra. I also matched the 22K resistors and interestingly none of them were over 22K. You need four matched as close as possible to 22K for the "zener" section.

SQ of the 404LE > > > > > > > > > > > > > > SQ of a standard 404

I believe this has more to do with his recent entry into the Mafia...

Glad that's over... There are some errors in the BOM though, at least version 4 which I have.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2560[/ATTACH] Panasonic DMC-FS42 + 8gb card. Goodbye crappy, malfunctioning Powershot...

The PSU is pretty simple but the chips are all good and that Ultra Analog jitter reducer is interesting. I'm going to buy the schematics from Adcom to see if I can dig up something more about that UA piece of kit. The rest of the DAC isn't bad by any means but could do with some light mods, i.e. about 50 2.2uf/50V caps and some 2200uf/63V units to start with.

The BNC cable is simple, just get a 75ohm coax and some 75ohm BNC's. There is also a 50ohm version so stay away from that.

The voltages found in conventional speakers are truly terrifying...

BNC input shouldn't be a problem since it is 75ohm just like the RCA's. I'm certainly going to add one on the Adcom GDA-700.

Hehe, same here. Not much too it though, rip off the pads and plug the port with some blutac. Take the springs and widen them a bit by hand, adjust the angle of the mounting pin with some pliers. Then attach a bit of wire with heat shrink to the end of the spring to make sure it doesn't get tangled on the inside of the pads and tear them, remount everything and enjoy.

The plan is to bring a modded SR-007A/Mk2 with me or have an unmodded unit sent to the meet and do the mod there.

I will certainly try my darnedest to get them going again. I have an idea what it causing this but I need a dead set to confirm. Ohh and a modded Mk2 is pretty much a Mk1 with a slightly tilted treble.

Nothing wrong with that. Btw. Did you ever try the SR-Omega, Mike? Basically a more forward version of the O2 and you might like that very much. A modded SR-007Mk2 might also be more to your liking since the treble is more lively on that one.

I can tell you once my unit arrives. I do think the Adcom needs to be modded as the caps used are cheap and nasty plus the opamps (whatever they really are) sure can be bettered. This isn't going to cost more than 100$ though and could turn it into something very nice indeed.

True but that is one heavy headphone... Same here. I only needed a mild adjustment but I've seen pictures of some truly drastic arc bending. I believe Darthnut had his arc's in a roughly 90

I'm going to get some Dynalo PCB's (to use as a preamp) so a couple of Dynahi boards wouldn't hurt...

Ditto, making them just a bit angled inwards does help with the imaging. Now I'll get back to listening to the rebuilt ES-1...

There really isn't a whole lot of room for my ears to move inside the pads so towards the back for me. Same with the SR-Omega

Gold plated brass FTW!!! That's clearly why we like Stax so much since they have always taken care to use non-magnetic parts...

The 300mm chassis isn't going to give you a lot of options in terms of layout. My BH is built into a 2U/300mm and there really isn't a lot of room in there once you factor in the depth of connectors etc. The Dynahi boards are smaller but not by that much... I'd put one channel on each sink and place them right at the front with the transformer in one back corner and the S22 in the other. The power input would be next to the transformer and the line inputs next to the PSU. Btw. I wished I hadn't just looked at the Dynahi PCB and realized I had all the parts needed to build one. It would kick ass with a couple of Lundahl's to drive Stax...

I usually have the seam pointing forward and slightly angled upwards towards the temples. That's how the SR-Omega is but how I've used my set from day one.

Now that's a great price!! I paid 5$ for some 500K units just last week...

Yeah, sadly no SR-Omega here. Though given how similar the T2 and BH are I think it is safe to assume the T2/Omega combo will be equally awesome if a bit different. A drill press will help greatly in getting rid of the pin.

Going by the non DIY T2, it will be fucking awesome.