spritzer

I'd recommend heatshrink but it was hard for me to use since I had two wires on each pin, the wire from the tubes and then a loop out to the Fischer socket. Solid core wires would also be a good choice here...

Great connectors but make extra sure you don't short out the wires with a stray strand. The R- and bias pins are pretty close together...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2595[/ATTACH] Ohh hell yeah,this could pass for a Viking smiley. Can we add this one. pretty please...?

I use one very similar to this and it works well with wires from 28 and down to 12 which is the largest I've tried. I'm so happy with it that I'm going to buy another one tomorrow...

Couldn't have said it better....

Some black Sonus Faber speaker stands for my Spendors. Too good a deal to pass up even if the speakers aren't exactly the right shape...

The only issue for me is that the Jade has a 5 pin XLR and some idiot might think those two are compatible.

What about a Lemo connector? They are available in 5 pin and short of somebody believing they were a HE90 socket it's easy to see what it does. Not cheap though but pretty well made.

For me I have two complaints about the Mk2/A, the midbass hump is caused by the port Stax put into the cable entry to get rid of the fart issue. Plug the port and it is gone. My second complaint is the midrange coloration which is rather similar to what the SR-404 has. This is caused by the increased height of the earpads to help make the phones more comfortable for people with ears that protrude more then the norm. To fix this I alter the spring inside the earpads, make it flatter and wider so it grabs the sides of the earpads. I'm not sure that EQ can fix these issues, certainly hasn't worked for me with the SR-404 in the past. You always need another 'stat... It's a subtle change but it's there.

The older G-series is very nice, especially the newer G-500 and the 80's G-560. Wouldn't want to pay for the gas though...

I got an email today from Mouser and the last of the parts should be in stock in April. A long time but better then the late July date in the last estimation...

There isn't much you can do with these cars without being able to access the built in computers so DIY is pretty much out. Even in the harsh climate here (i.e. a constant salt bath) they have been pretty trouble free and no worse off then the BMW's, Merc's, Porsche's, Audi's which are quite a lot of here. The service for RR's is also excellent here since more cars were sold to Iceland then all of Scandinavia combined...

I was replying to Asr's post above mine, not criticizing you. I can understand liking the 4070 over an Omega but with Lambdas there are better choices such as the ESP950 and the HE60 IMO. I never look at the price though, I simply don't care the slightest bit short of the 3-4K$ limit. If you've never spent time with the Mk1 or SR-O then they are great and most wouldn't be bothered by the apparent colorations. They are a lot like the SR-404, all in all a great headphone but all that is taken away with a relatively minor coloration that ruins everything. Now mod the Mk2 and I put them on par with the Mk1, slightly more forward but very close.

There are a lot of H2's up here and nobody wants them. They corrode quite badly and are very badly made. If you want a large SUV, get a Range Rover. It's so far ahead of all the others that it isn't even funny. My dad went through pretty much large SUV made in the last 5 years and settled on a Range Rover V8 Tdi Vogue Autobiography and absolutely loves it. Before he got it he thought it was just an expensive toy but boy was he proven wrong... Cheap to run too, about 12l/100km and goes like stink for something this heavy.

Mike liking the 4070 more then the SR-007 is understandable but a Lambda?? One more thing, not that there should ever be any risk of not being able to source a SR-404LE, the Airbow SR-SC1 sounds pretty much the same to these ears (from memory but compared against a common reference) so that's something to keep in mind. It would also be a great headphone to mess with the noobs as aside from the small sticker on the plug it is just a normal SR-404...

Red is indeed very cool. Kevin should be the first to fire it up and I probably won't be far behind. As for the BOM errors, there are no 6K8 resistors, instead there should be four 6k2's. The BOM listed 8*390K but you really need 12. You also require at least four more 10K units, probably more. Since it is such a common value it's a good idea to have some extra. I also matched the 22K resistors and interestingly none of them were over 22K. You need four matched as close as possible to 22K for the "zener" section.

SQ of the 404LE > > > > > > > > > > > > > > SQ of a standard 404

I believe this has more to do with his recent entry into the Mafia...

Glad that's over... There are some errors in the BOM though, at least version 4 which I have.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2560[/ATTACH] Panasonic DMC-FS42 + 8gb card. Goodbye crappy, malfunctioning Powershot...

The PSU is pretty simple but the chips are all good and that Ultra Analog jitter reducer is interesting. I'm going to buy the schematics from Adcom to see if I can dig up something more about that UA piece of kit. The rest of the DAC isn't bad by any means but could do with some light mods, i.e. about 50 2.2uf/50V caps and some 2200uf/63V units to start with.

The BNC cable is simple, just get a 75ohm coax and some 75ohm BNC's. There is also a 50ohm version so stay away from that.

The voltages found in conventional speakers are truly terrifying...

BNC input shouldn't be a problem since it is 75ohm just like the RCA's. I'm certainly going to add one on the Adcom GDA-700.

Hehe, same here. Not much too it though, rip off the pads and plug the port with some blutac. Take the springs and widen them a bit by hand, adjust the angle of the mounting pin with some pliers. Then attach a bit of wire with heat shrink to the end of the spring to make sure it doesn't get tangled on the inside of the pads and tear them, remount everything and enjoy.