spritzer

The plan is to bring a modded SR-007A/Mk2 with me or have an unmodded unit sent to the meet and do the mod there.

I will certainly try my darnedest to get them going again. I have an idea what it causing this but I need a dead set to confirm. Ohh and a modded Mk2 is pretty much a Mk1 with a slightly tilted treble.

Nothing wrong with that. Btw. Did you ever try the SR-Omega, Mike? Basically a more forward version of the O2 and you might like that very much. A modded SR-007Mk2 might also be more to your liking since the treble is more lively on that one.

I can tell you once my unit arrives. I do think the Adcom needs to be modded as the caps used are cheap and nasty plus the opamps (whatever they really are) sure can be bettered. This isn't going to cost more than 100$ though and could turn it into something very nice indeed.

True but that is one heavy headphone... Same here. I only needed a mild adjustment but I've seen pictures of some truly drastic arc bending. I believe Darthnut had his arc's in a roughly 90

I'm going to get some Dynalo PCB's (to use as a preamp) so a couple of Dynahi boards wouldn't hurt...

Ditto, making them just a bit angled inwards does help with the imaging. Now I'll get back to listening to the rebuilt ES-1...

There really isn't a whole lot of room for my ears to move inside the pads so towards the back for me. Same with the SR-Omega

Gold plated brass FTW!!! That's clearly why we like Stax so much since they have always taken care to use non-magnetic parts...

The 300mm chassis isn't going to give you a lot of options in terms of layout. My BH is built into a 2U/300mm and there really isn't a lot of room in there once you factor in the depth of connectors etc. The Dynahi boards are smaller but not by that much... I'd put one channel on each sink and place them right at the front with the transformer in one back corner and the S22 in the other. The power input would be next to the transformer and the line inputs next to the PSU. Btw. I wished I hadn't just looked at the Dynahi PCB and realized I had all the parts needed to build one. It would kick ass with a couple of Lundahl's to drive Stax...

I usually have the seam pointing forward and slightly angled upwards towards the temples. That's how the SR-Omega is but how I've used my set from day one.

Now that's a great price!! I paid 5$ for some 500K units just last week...

Yeah, sadly no SR-Omega here. Though given how similar the T2 and BH are I think it is safe to assume the T2/Omega combo will be equally awesome if a bit different. A drill press will help greatly in getting rid of the pin.

Going by the non DIY T2, it will be fucking awesome.

The 404LE is a very nice headphone and the comfort is hard to deny. DEW EET!!!! Did you try to bend the arc's on the SR-007 Stretch? If you are having comfort issues then that is the first place to look.

I don't quantify stuff like this, that is reserved for the idiot reviewers over on HF. The ESP950 does hold it's own compared to the SR-007 is many areas but it misses some of the presence and sheer sense of scale that the Stax can muster.

He just needs a Sigma for some soundstage goodness (and ridicule of friends and family)

Damn!! Has anybody told Kai yet?

Ahh the joys of idiots that can't solder...

Good show!!! What was the issue?

My email address was in the last PM I sent you so we can just use that.

Fuck yeah!!! As a matter of fact I just had some rotten shark earlier with a shot of Brenniv

Thanks, I dropped Scott a PM.

Some headphones which I've sold have worked just fine here but had channel imbalance when they arrived. Conditions they see in shipping sure plays a part here. Just run them in some more and the bias supply should overcome the parasitic charge. I've used them at Pro bias on quite a few sets with no issues. Stax also used the same cable (same internal wires too) on the SR-X Pro so it should be just fine. The way I did it was to cut the strain relief free from the plug and pull it higher up on the cable. Cut a small opening in the cable sheath and find the middle bias wire and combine it with the 5 pin bias wire. Slide the strain relief back into place, secure with glue and drill out the center pin. Very fiddly job though...

I could use a "cheap" balanced dac for testing amps so if Nate doesn't want it then I'm interested.