spritzer

I'm sure they were being a bit conservative so a 400v+ bias voltage could work. The bias is governed by the square of the D/S gap so if the gap is 0.4mm then 500v would work. A SR-007 works just fine at 750v...

A change in humidity can make them arc or higher drive voltages. Hell with that bias, looking at them the wrong way can make them arc...

Nothing would beat that brainless combo.

Indeed I meant that. That's what I get for staying up past my bed time. Work in less then 5 hours...

Yup though there is only one step... buy some Patek's. Edit. Some sort of a mind melt thing going on here...

Tuberoller would certainly fit the bill...

Not enough voltage would be my guess.

Stealth Metacarbon IC's from the looks of it. Not cheap...

That pile won't last long though. 4 units needed per amp and all that...

Here in the south of Iceland we never see temps this low but -5

I think I'd feel right at home in Alaska...

Magnets and high voltage...together? Hmmm....

I'm all too aware of just how bias functions so I won't mess with it too much. MOAR POWAH!!! instead...

Sure looks like it and I feel somewhat responsible... \

Damn!!! I never ventured higher then 230v...

Good show.

What version of the BOM did you use? Vishay resistors or my rather nutty collection from PCX? Those do look nice and good show for not using cones. I hate those...

Don't knock the M

Good thing we don't have to worry about shipping completed amps.

Sounds like a plan. So if I want to build another one, would I need two of the huge DIYAudio group buy sinks per side? I'll measure it tomorrow and get back to you.

I couldn't get the R channel to reach 0.6V, topped out at 0.35V on both resistors so I'll have to take it apart and check what is wrong. The other one came up on spec almost instantly but there is no way in hell that this chassis is large enough for the amount of heat it needs to dissipate. It also started to smell a bit after a couple of minutes but that can be normal with thermal paste or at least I sure hope it was the past. \ Does anybody have a link to the Hi-fi 2000 Pesante Dissipante specs?

Does it work better then simply using a larger drill bit to deburr? A stepped drill does this beautifully most of the time but I'm all for some new toys. Btw. The F5 is alive but fuck this thing runs hot!! I measured 70

Very few of the European manufacturers have balanced connectors on their gear and if they do, they are SE. Naim is special though since they believe the RCA connector to be evil...

You know my take on these phones and that was with the old BH which is more or less the same. It is hard to blame the amp for making the phones bright though when it is essentially dead neutral. The ES-1 as Mikhail built it is duller then a stack of wet towels and I'm sure Justin went a similar way with the Aristaeus as Senn did with the HEV90, tone it down a bit to make it sound beautiful but not true. When I moved from the SR-007 to the SR-404LE on the T2 it was clearly too bright but that's because the phones are on the brighter side of neutral. This is with the APL as a source which has a transformer coupled tube output, nothing like the slightly sterile and bright Esoteric sound. I loved the SR-Omega from my old BH but the upper midrange/treble issues were still there. The amp didn't try to hide them in any way but other parts of spectrum were good enough for me to ignore it. That said you could be happier with an AC coupled amp. I would also look into different cables, ones that aren't trying to sound impressive.

Well the F5 is nearing completion so it shouldn't be long. I made some progress on it today but I still have to fire it up. Given the level of incompetence involved with stuffing the boards I'm expecting to have some issues... That would be my guess since Stax has this "newer is better" mentality.