GeorgeP

C'mon, pick it up J-D! Why no music yet?

Looking good!

Was thinking something like this:

Was talking about taking a bath on a 25k source (selling for 8-9k now) and picking up a 30k source plus the Yggy. Add up all the dosh spent and to be spent and well...

You could probably buy the new Orpheus system if you sold all your stax gear and stopped this side- up-grading stuff. Or you are at least within striking distance.

The Canada shipment arrived in Tuesday. Thanks again for all your work on this. Now to figure out how to best mount these horizontally in a slightly shorter than 2U case.

I doubt there will be any way to find out because I suspect the built in DAC might do all sorts of signal manipulation to get the sound presentation and frequency response they are looking for. Wait, what? You mean it doesn't fly? I was actually thinking this would be a fairly cheap option to transatlantic airfare over the next several years, and I could listen to music at the same time.

I was going to go 450v as well. Did you use the trimpot or change the resistor to increase the ma? And good news on the sound. Was hoping to use this in place of my T2 as my bed-side rig, but man does the T2 ever sound glorious.

Andy, where did you end up landing on this? Anyone else? Still waiting for my caps and traffo, but expect to be firing up by the end of the month.

What was your +200 and -540 adjusted to in order to get 708v? And were your mods needed to achieve this?

That is no fun. For those who had noise in the batteries, do you recall if the noise level tracked with the volume or whether it was independent of the volume control? Might help s_r in trying to track this down.

make sure to lift with your legs!

I did this. Also, if you use the Amphenols, they are spec'd for 20ga other than one 16ga pin. But you can probably comfortably fit a couple of 18ga wires. Oh, and I would not leave that one pin empty in your umbilicals. You may not have need for it on the amp side right now, but you will be kicking yourself if you need it down the road.

twisted between for sure. I went with adjacent, but don't know if there was any logic to the legend that some folks worked off of. and yes, this is part is pretty painful.

take a look at the aavid stuff too - lots of choice.

what about adding a small 15-0-15? Don't know if such exists - but space could be an issue.

Any particular benefit to using the film QYX1H474KTP over a standard ceramic .47uf 50v cap? The film ones have some size to them as well.

That's good news, eh. Thanks for all your work, eh.

are they supposed to be United Chemi-Con? i've just never seen "negative black" before. I received some counterfeit panny caps before - by themselves I had doubts but when compared to the original, it was clear - the casing and print just were "off".

yeah, where are the caps from? That should tell you right away.

do you have the spacing handy?

I am clearly clueless on this, but why the GR boards?

I think Inu used Takman Rey (metal film) without any issues, but I do seem to recall that he made a number of other modifications to deal with the noise... I have some 820k and 390k that I can send his way to see if that is the issue. I will compare the Carbon to the T2 in November. The T2 does have a quad of input tubes that need to be as silent as possible - I suspect that everyone may have a different noise floor based on that alone. Did the noise change at all when adjusting the trimmers (all 4)? Noise is the same on both sides?

Check continuity from a back plate screw on the amp chassis to a backplate screw on the psu. And are those takman Rey or Rex (they look like Rey)?

Grounding is very important for noise. You should make sure there is continuity between the two cases, and you will need to scrape off some of the anodizing to make sure it doesn't insulate where you don't want it to. If you have continuity, then probably not grounding. Was also wondering how close your resistors are to the board, especially the resistors in the batteries.