GeorgeP

Yes, adjust the trimpot for any noise. It may put the voltages off a smidge, but getting rid of the noise is key.

Use the 10k trimpot to set the 6.55v.

Is everyone ad idem on this? Also, does anyone have an extra dual carbon psu board? under ordered for some reason.

No clue re 9v. Haven't really been following, as I said did not cross reference, just cut and pasted. The person who posted it also wanted it to work in the circlotron so perhaps 9v is needed there.

This was posted in one on the group buy spread sheets: 210VA pri: 230V sec1: 2x380V (250mA) sec2: 2x18V (500mA) sec3: 9V (250mA). Obviously you would choose the voltage of the primary for your region (or get dual). Haven't cross-referenced it with the various suggestions on the traffo from Kevin and Kerry in some of the other threads.

Marc, I have a few pieces left but was going to try using them for a Carbon and maybe some other stuff. That said, I suspect there is enough interest that I could have another batch made (minimum order is 4 x 12 feet). Doing some rough math, a 16" piece (slightly smaller than what is needed for the T2) would be about $50 without any tapping. Drop me a pm on what you might need as I can have them cut to any size.

Custom die at around $3k to have those sinks made. Then each batch in 12ft lengths which can then be cut to any length. Were you meaning heatsink?

Great work Kerry, as always. I have been busy on the T2 front as well. After Tran/Lil Knight (the douche) ran off with my and others' money in the failed chassis group buy, I started reaching out to various shops. Managed to find one that had the patience to deal with a small custom order so organized a new group buy with a few folks here. Started in Jan/Feb and finally finished just this past week. Despite all the hours with the machinist and assisting on drawings, this was easier for me than redesigning the PCBs to fit a particular chassis or heatsink. These ones are the same as the ones KG had made a few years back, so no new design features like yours.

Pretty sure you can use the newer/cheaper sand on the old boards if you wanted (but it would not necessarily be plug and play). The 3381 replacement(s) might be tricky though. Can't avoid the j79 and k216.

Yeah, its like the Ironman of amp builds... and that is if nothing goes wrong... commercial viability = 0.

Also, did you end up going with the 4686 or did you go 3675?

Yes, that is awesome news! And never thought of moving the LEDS to the topside - means you don't have to start it up on its side with both covers off - great idea. Probably want the 22k resistor topside as well. What testpoints are those?

I see, that is something I have never seen before - so there is copper under the solder resist that is creating a bridge between the pads where there shouldn't be any continuity. So your time delay would have had no effect and the amp would be on immediately. I checked my boardset, and it doesn't have this extra copper - not sure what happened there. Also the through-holes seem to poke out a bit past the solder pads, but I am guessing that hasn't turned out to be an issue. Did want to mention that I will likely be unloading my extra boardset as it is unlikely that I will be using it. The boards are 4oz copper and 3mm thick, so this is only for people who know what they are doing. The amp board is the shorter version that can use off the shelf 400mm heatsinks (no need for custom pieces).

so the solder pads are touching? Can you post a photo? The shrunk boards I have match the the Gerber perfectly, with no slop.

sorry, are you saying the traces on your board don't match the image you posted above?

That is the slightly shorter board - I can confirm that it works as it should. The two middle rows are for setting the voltage.

That sounds right - not a board error. If you want further assurance, the schematic and board pictures will show the same thing.

Feedback mod is easy and cheap. The other mod would probably cost a few hundred $ to get someone to do it for you.

Am good to go.

Kevin, is that your answering machine in the bottom right of the pic? Regarding the caliper, the only thing I would say is to consider 8" instead of 6", unless you are absolutely sure you will never need the extra length. I bought a 6" a while back and on a number of occasions really wish I had sprung for the 8".

Kevin already answered your milliamp question that you already posted on HeadFi.

Looks good. Though I assume the v2 and v3 are just for reference.

But in fairness, he didn't peddle his stuff alone - he had quite a few enablers... makes you wonder who was worse...

Would the v2 and v3 columns just be collapsed into the v5 column unless you hear otherwise? Would be odd for someone to want a v2 or v3 in place of a v5, no?

So I take it that mean there is no need for the v2 amp board option in the group buy.