UFN
Returning Member
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Everything posted by UFN
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If some out there has an (as yet) unfulfilled death wish or just wants to build a massive PSU, I guess you can't beat this offer http://www.partsconnexion.com/RIFA-77696.html //UFN
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//UFN
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FWIW I've bought from "alweit" and his parts look good to me. Service was good too. //UFN
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The RK27 is the standard Alps "Blue". The "double-decker" ones are called RK168 //UFN
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Looks good! Still haven't actually powered mine up - must get round to that soon... //UFN
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I have Carbon boards as well, but unlikely to have time to do anything with them for at least a couple of months. Even if they are not the newest version I assume they are OK to use? //UFN
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Looks good, keep us posted when you finish the other channel Just out of interest, which caps did you use for the 4.7uF/47uF positions? //UFN
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That worked, thanks for the tip In other news, I fixed the offset-issue. Didn't have to do anything except realize that the servo op-amp is a dual-OP and not the usual OP27 Note to self, read the schematic properly FFS! //UFN
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Oh well, I replaced the 20K trimpot with a 50K and the result is - nothing! Exactly the same values as before, meaning 1.45-1.5V across the 10R resistor and 2.15-2.2V offset on the output. Will have to keep looking I guess... //UFN
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It's probably the same that a few of us got from another ebay-seller a while ago; genuine but very old (pre-RoHS). They look the same at least. //UFN
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Think I may have found the problem (or at least part of it). The trimpot is 25K in the schematic and I used a 20K (because that's what I had) but it is 50K in the BoM above. That might be why I haven't got enough adjustment range? The 2.2V offset is with the servo in place BTW. //UFN
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Finally managed to put the boards together and test them. They seem to work fine, but I am unable to get the voltage across the 10R resistor below app. 1.45V and I have app. 2V offset on the output. Any ideas on what the problem is?? //UFN
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Very interesting! //UFN
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Assuming it is working then congrats on a job well done //UFN
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Not much experience with Molex, but I have used equivalent JSTs quite a bit (VH, XH, PH types etc.). With a bit of care then they are quite easy to solder (as long as you have something that can hold the connector) and a needle-nose plier is then all that is needed to shape the connector to fit in the housing. However, cripting is still a bit easier so on a trip to Japan last year I bought one of these. That will crimp most of these connectors without the need for a dedicated tool per type. Quality is quite good although I can't comment on how long it will last. //UFN
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Bel Canto? //UFN
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I believe the DIYA GB ones were Conrads 350mm profile in 151.5 (6") length - at least the two Conrad GBs I recall seeing. //UFN
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I hope so, because I just received mine //UFN PS: Looking at heat sink options for the Carbon at the moment - how much do I actually need?
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Aww, you gotta show us more than that! //UFN
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Anyone already bought this one and/or seriously considering it? Seriously tempted to try one against my M-Dac with the added bonus that it could drive my T1s directly More info: http://soekris.com/products/audio-products/dam1021.html https://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2015/01/30/building-soekris-r-2r-dac/ and a couple of gargantuan diyaudio-threads //UFN
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The MPSAs should be OK everywhere except in the Dynalo where the extra power handling of the MPSW package is required. //UFN
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All my spares are gone, sorry. //UFN
