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gepardcv

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Everything posted by gepardcv

  1. I personally love the KGST. I haven't checked parts availability lately, though it used to be a reasonably affordable build. You can sometimes get a good deal on a 007 (I paid nowhere near list price for mine), though it definitely does not err towards brightness. Great headphone, though.
  2. I would appreciate a bit of advice with regard to mounting non-isolated active devices on heatsinks. While trying to get my feet wet with speaker amps, I bought a Gainclone kit (LM3886-based chipamp). The active devices included all require heatsink mounting, and all are non-isolated (LM3886T in particular instead of the isolated 3886TF). The kit does not include isolation pads, PEEK screws, shoulder washers, or any of the things we use here to attach high-voltage devices. I asked the vendor about this, and he said that I shouldn’t worry about it — he said that the tabs are grounded, and therefore do not need to be isolated from the chassis. I don’t understand this statement, and asked if “grounded” in this case means “the case is connected to safety earth on the inlet”, and if that implies that the amp cannot ever be connected to an outlet without a safety earth line (which I normally think of as necessary to protect against accidental shorts, but not as a hard requirement to prevent electrocution in everyday operation). He replied: “The power supply uses a UL Listed transformer, power entrance, fuse block, and power switch.” This does not sit well with me, but before I push back on the vendor, I thought I’d ask here if I’m just ignorant. Is there something about UL Listed hardware that prevents a high-voltage device which is electrically common with the amplifier case from shocking the user? Is there a grounding scheme that negates this danger?
  3. Exciting! And that amp looks gorgeous. Please post some photos of the interior (if not sensitive, of course).
  4. @Pars: I used an M6, countersunk, to mount an AS-0518 on a Modushop Galaxy 388 base panel, which I believe is thinner than 3mm (supposedly 2mm). Also used FPE and FrontDesign. It turned out fine and looks plenty sturdy to me. I don't think the trafo will fall out.
  5. Right. So with a GRLV destined to output 20V, what’s the right secondary size? 12/12 gives 24V, which I’m wondering if it’s too much. I’m sure 18/18 is too much. I used 22VCT before, which was perfect and ran cool.
  6. I thought that tying two secondary windings together to make a center tap effectively creates a series AC circuit, which adds together the voltages of the windings. So two 12V secondary windings make a 24V center-tapped winding. And 18+18 would turn into 36-0-36, which definitely seems too high for a 20V DC output. Is that wrong?
  7. Question about transformers. I have a GRLV I want to repurpose, and it’s been used with a 22VCT transformer (single bridge rectifier) which for various reasons can’t be reused. I want to use the GRLV now with an Antek dual secondary transformer. I don’t want to change the bridges on the GRLV because it’s one of the earlier PCB versions that has incorrectly sized holes on the rectifier pads and it’s annoying and messy to (un)solder all that. 1. Can I tie the secondaries together and achieve a center-tapped equivalent? This suggests that I can: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/571731/59134 2. There is no 11V dual secondary Antek product, but there’s a 12V (https://www.antekinc.com/as-0512-50va-12v-transformer/). This means it’ll be equivalent to 24VCT (if I understand things correctly). Is that okay for a 20V output GRLV, or too high? I guess I could spring for a custom 22VCT transformer, but Anteks are so much cheaper and more convenient to buy.
  8. Is this the same character who took a bunch of people's money here on HC for a T2 group buy back in the early 2010s and vanished?
  9. Well, two years later, I'm thinking about finally finishing up a Mini Dynalo build. Last time I was working on it, I stuffed the boards but failed to solder the on-board regulators (even though I used a stencil with solder paste, I still suck at such fine hot air work). I picked up the AMB sigma78 and sigma79s, and noticed they mismatch the U5 and U7 areas on the PCB. U5 and U7 have holes for 5 pins, but the regulators have 3. It looks from photos others have posted that the outside pins are ignored. What's up with the extra holes on the board?
  10. You need to look at the software you use (DJing sounds like you need some pro audio support) and make sure it works natively on Apple’s new CPUs, or at least through Rosetta2 binary translation. If it is not supported for any reason, buy a MBP now while you can still get one with an Intel CPU. If you’re good with Apple Silicon, then definitely hold off on buying a MBP. If rumors are to be believed, a refresh will come soon (this fall, so within a few months) and will bring a new form factor. Supposedly, it’ll get rid of the idiotic Touch Bar on the keyboards, bring back MagSafe power connectors, and bring back extra ports. As far as typing comfort goes, just buy a nice external keyboard. I rather like Keychron keyboards, for example. Battery life and power management sucks compared to Apple external keyboards, but the typing feel is massively better.
  11. Doing anything else with digital media is nervosa. Streamers? Roon? Pi2AES? FFS.
  12. Wait! Does this mean Audeze finally managed to make a headphone that doesn't make violins sound like violas?! @Beefy: Re: “electrostats seem to have stood completely still, while planars and dynamics have come forward in leaps and bounds” — my observations from attending numerous (large) meets for several years before covid have been that no TOTL planar or dynamic beats my SR-007 (v2.5 I guess?) and Carbon combo. Not the Utopia, not the LCD-4, not the piece of shit Abyss, nothing Hifiman (haven't heard their $6k thing though), not the Meze Empyrean (though that thing is pure catnip for bassheads). They're nice, sure, and most have the advantage of not needing much of a specialized amp. But they're not nicer than the current-production 007 or the 1993 SR-Omega (which I don't have, alas, but have had the fortune to try once). This opinion is unpopular on other forums. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Maybe this means there's a (local?) maximum in headphone quality, and various manufacturers are slowly reaching it. @spritzer: What amps do you think the measurements are coming from?
  13. @ShortBtwnHdset: Don't let Pars scare you away. No build guides doesn't mean you won't get answers. The Dynalo is easy. That kit you bought looks pretty good, assuming the MPSW parts really are genuine and matched as advertised. Look at BOMs, but above all follow the silkscreen on the boards. Stuff the boards. Check the GRLV board you have for the type of transformer secondary windings you'll need, whether center-tapped or not (there are a couple of different GRLV versions floating around). I used an Antek 50VA 22V for a Dynalo, it worked great, but might not be right for your GRLV board. This thread will have more info. Do you know how to safely wire up mains? That'll be the next challenge. It's also not difficult, but needs to be done carefully and correctly. While the wiring is pretty self-explanatory, you'll also need to ground the amp correctly to avoid noise. Again, there's info in various threads (including the KGSSHV thread), and feel free to ask when you get that far.
  14. I love the Zenph version of Gould's older Goldberg Variations recording. As far as I can tell, the same amazing playing but much better recording quality. I'm ambivalent on the binaural versions compared to vanilla stereo.
  15. The other bad thing about Focals (which I brought up years ago on this thread, but worth repeating for anyone considering it): the headband creates a hotspot. It's not flat along the skull line (unlike, say, the HD800 headband, or Stax-style suspension straps), but kind of cylindrical. For me at, least, the discomfort is immediate. One brand that I haven't seen discussed much here on HC is ZMF. Due to circumstances over the years, it's one of the few high-end headphone lines I have never had the opportunity to try out. If anyone has, opinions? (I already know if my 007 dies, I'll repair it or just get another one, but if my Audio Zenith PMx2 dies, there's no way to replace it with Oppo out of the business. So it'd be good to know what can live up to it. Focal is absolutely not a contender for me.)
  16. Where are you moving the data from the old media?
  17. In my understanding, setting a higher sample rate will cause the OS to digitally upsample or downsample the source material to match. I don’t know if it’s audible from an ABX test perspective, but it mucks with the signal. I suspect it doesn’t matter for upsamples of multiples of the original (like 44kHz to 88kHz or 48 to 96), but interpolation (44 to 96) might introduce artifacts. (I might be wrong about this.) A higher output bit depth than the source material should be fine: the extra bits will be set to 0, and that’s that. No information added, removed, or changed.
  18. Audirvana switches bit rate without necessarily taking exclusive control of a DAC. Is there any advantage to exclusive control? I find it annoying — you can’t just pause music playback to l, e.g. watch a video in-browser, you have to fully stop and lose your place in a track or playlist. Oh, and Apple’s jukebox software still not switching rates automatically is just silly. C’mon.
  19. I’m on the Qobuz trial, too. Playing through Audirvana, which gives 90 days. Enjoying the curated content, and it actually sounds better than Tidal to me. Too bad there’s no easy way to ABX, or I’d give it a shot.
  20. There’s now a part 2, if you feel like spending some more time: There’s pure insanity going on surrounding this on various forums. The pro-MQA crowd is now engaged in trench-warfare trying to discredit the guy who posted these videos. Changed its tune to “well we never said it was lossless — it’s lossy but BETTER than lame old lossless!”. There’s an edit war going on in the Wikipedia MQA article.
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