luvdunhill

for Q3 you should have around 0.6V across the base-emitter junction. You didn't identify which reading was which leg.... I'm going to guess the collector is at 30.6v (based on the output of the psu regulator voltage) in which case something is wrong here. Verify R13 and R16 are the proper values and R13, R16, Q3 are soldered properly. If you have a diode check function on your meter, verify that you are getting a diode drop across base-emitter, but I'm guessing this critter is bad. Also, did you remember to solder in the shorty to connect the top and bottom ground planes?

okay. voltage across R2? voltage after regulator (R8)? did you install R27 (47k)? voltages at all three legs of Q5 and Q3 (ok, and Q4)? edit: referenced to ground are both boards not working? verify all resistor values.

you mean this kind: Professional Engineer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia or -=this=- kind?

yup, so true.

When you say ladder, you mean R-2R ladder DACs? I say ladder > sign magnitude > delta sigma > everything else

I love TDA1543 the TDA1541A chips. I'd argue they're best with electrostatic setups. Whatever though.

hey, where did you buy that transformer, just out of curiosity?

heh, I didn't even see any rain. We left Austin Saturday morning (no rain the night before even) to go visit Waco and amazingly the weather was really nice. Even traffic was good. Anyways, pretty much a non-event. I have friends who are in Friendswood / SE Houston that had lots of damage though ..

sound cards cannot add enough fundamentals to generate the same quality square wave that even $.10 IC can.

yes, I would agree with your concerns. One benefit is that you can really dial in a vinyl rig much more with a headphone rig that a speaker rig. In order to "cope", I tend to listen to "audiophile" recordings more with a headphone rig and the no-so-great recordings, but awesome performances with my speaker rig.

nope, won't void the warantee. it is indeed no questions asked. Just remove the cable before you send it in (or you won't get it back), no need to reattach the old one.

recable is easy and sounds much better than the adapter. That coupled with the 620v bias is what gets me excited about these phones.

just checked my precious 500v Black Gate stash. No ratings. I'd guess 85C if I was pressed for a guess.

you can get a BAT VK-3i with remote shipped for less than $1k. I sold mine with remote, phono, and nice NOS tubes for $1200 shipped and PayPal'ed.

I'm probably more at risk from head-case at this point than Ike.

yes, I need to find your address and take them to the post office. I'm a bit behind on the rest ...

I've drilled them out before, it's quite easy and doesn't really damage anything. I may have some replacement screws I could send you, but I'd have to check.

now you can finally ask here what the SFI drivers sound like in bamboo drawers... I for one was always curious, and *finally* we will have an answer!

fearing a recabling bonanza?

you can fit a lot of soapstone in that camper are you planning on heading up to Austin?

PJ: I might have a VPI mouting plate if you're interested in purchasing it from me. They're absurdly expensive for what they are though..

heh, nope -20 out of -60 perhaps? what is it with the other phono pre setup? I'm just curious if the hiss is coming from the Bugle, or perhaps the 840A. And secondly, if you can afford to lower the gain on the Bugle a bit, which would decrease the noise. Also, same questions apply for any headphone amps you've used (both) with.

If I recall, I used 150 ohm loading with my DL-103. I was using a BAT phono stage. Is the gain sufficient with the Bugle in your system? Where is the listening dial on your pre / integrated? edit: also, you realize you can roll the opamps in this, right? I'll see what I have on hand that might work for you.

Hey, send me your Bugle I'll set the input impedance to 100 ohms for you and make it so you can change it yourself in the future. Also, try blu-tack instead of the penny w/ tape. That's what I use now