mtoc

My God, the entire emotion entirely depends on the external weather? Pull yourself together, bud. You're the head of the forums. But that's totally, totally understandable. I don't like damp weathers, too. Those damp feelings, we rather not speak them out... haunted.. Anyway I putting three of this in my room (recommended by my father-in-law) and I moved all my gears (for DIY and for listening to music) and my portable Olympus photocamera and the ultra-screen TV (from SONY) into the room. Now it's 365*24 dry/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1W8MKI Cheers

any possibility to make these two new input output boards smaller than ever before while making them still be better than all the versions which released last year? (small size saves money)

Pardon me, how to wire the boards? why O+ one one side, i+ on the other? GND GND -i O-

oh 13.5v is for some out of date DAC boards. my main focus and the main project is the electrostatics amp. never deal with such high voltage gear. pretty anxious. by the way, do we choose zeners by this rule? LT1021-10: 9.1v zener LT1021-7: 7.5v zener LT1021-5: 5.1v zener

More expensive than the LCD-4, yo!

folks, gr lv dual version is right here I've thrown all my extra dough on this build (including the dough for updating my old-granny-level-pc. been saved for a very very long time), so it better be good. Alth, I always fear that, my $1,350 is gonna get into smoke, and boom, boom, boom pray for myself

I have two of these in my drawer, is that a bit crazy? RBV5006, max RMS voltage 600V, max average forward current 50A (but these are old, datasheet says production begins in 1998). The bridge in the BOM is 100V/4A http://www.allcomponents.ru/synsemi/rbv5006.htm http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/R/B/V/5/RBV5006.shtml

The BOM of GRLV. You've mentioned its BOM (the Excel BOM) in the GRLV thread for a few times, but I still haven't find it. I got the gerb file (zip) and the schematics (pdf), unfortunately both of them haven't have the standard/stock bridge model that we should look into.

the first step is always the most difficult. although you could laugh at, man... after frying a bunch of amps, I think I will get a working one.

I don't know, I usually use gerbview, works fine with zip files. Does zofzpcb support zip files? edit: zofz finally works after multi-trying. edit2: Zofz only works twice on my old-granny-level-pc. gerbview and gerberlogix work normally on my this old computer. That Zofz stuff is cool! I havta save some dough to buy a lastest Intel-i3-platform first!! Or even Zen!! edit3: zofz is indeed amazing! sometimes it works alth under cpu load 99% (envy you guys' decent computers)

oh, sorry. should be digits... where to find to the BOM? I've only got the gerb file...

@Pars Hi Pars, as for the bridges on GR LV, what kinds of bridges are needed? Do some of them measure better? (on the 6.5 bits stuff or even 8.5 bits)

Hello, how to use this software to view Kevin's zip gerb files?

Update: suddenly I found a 2 x 18 VAC transformer in my house (which came from a power amp), so I don't need to buy it. fisrtly I need the 13.5 VDC, so I just change the R8 and R9, then everything is fine? (R7 = R10 = 1.5k, plus the 10V version LT1021-10, 9.1V zeners) R8 = R9 13.5 x 150 -1500 = R8 = 525 (R8 + R7) / R7 x 10 = 13.5 If using the 7V version (R8 + R7) / R7 x 7 = 13.5 (R8 + R7) / R7 = 1.9286... We change R7 to 2k to make it simpler R8 = 1858 approximately PS, good to hear this PSU running fine at 15V

About measuring the voltage from electrostatic amp, I read a comment on Tyll's article http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/stax-mafia-makes-unrefusable-offer-and-i-begin-electrostatic-headphone-measurement-program quote As far as measuring the voltage on any of the stuff that's ballassed with a build-out resistor, forget about any voltmeter you might have. I haven't found a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a high enough impedance not to load down the voltage and give an incorrect reading. quote done What does built-out resistor mean?

edit 2: the transformer I think I will choose 12vac, 15vac or 18vac (all *2 models), among these three.

Folks if I wanna adjust the output voltage, which resistor should I change? edit: +/- 12V/13.5V/15V, all less than +/- 20V, should I also need to change the caps and ops?

That stock tubes are indeed 300B + 6SN7. "The one and only in the whole world." Like a snake oil advertisement. Found a high-resolution pic on HF: http://cdn.head-fi.org/5/56/56c7faf6_DSC_6063.jpeg Does it have input transformers? I guess so.

Thanks for your reply, I made a typo. The hall he often visits is actually this Boston Symphony Hall, not the Chicago one. Edit: he also visits the Chicago hall, but not as often. Anyway these two are his favorites, seems like.

No, absolutely Don't do this! Here's the little background. Back in 2010, there's a guy, well, he's the admin from a forums which discusses the electronics, and out of curious, he just cracked two of the Hifiman DAPs open. He found there're tons of xxx inside of them ("some parts are fake goldbricks, some parts are old used parts which came from other gears"). The result is Dr Fang Bian gave several phone calls to this guy, according to this buddy, Dr Fang just shouted at the end of line endless, and "if you don't drop the whole sxxt, I will find someone to KILL YA!!!" That guy immediately called the police and posted everything on the net. But, hey, Dr Fang didn't stop, man, they kept arguing for a year, and these kinds of threats, he not only received once, he received a few times during their argument. For your own safety, this sounds serious. Side story, last year a thief successfully stole two thingys at the Dr Fang Shop, of course Fang became angry, he announces that he will and must fight that thief, in person. So he told the world through every possible way, he's gonna stand at the center of a public piazza (at a specific day), they will fight "with their big fat fists". finally that day comes, the day of fight, everyone thinks Fang wins, cos he weighs more than 200 lb. But the thief of course, doesn't appear.

Here's the while story: After making the declaration that I mentioned previous, Dr. Fang Bian proudly lent the HSL suit to a guy who is a SR-009 user since the beginning. After several days auditioning, the dude reports back: Stax 009 (with the HSL amp) easily sounds a lot of better than the Shangri-la (with the HSL amp). And then Dr Fang Bian became furious, really scared the xxxt out of us. He told us we simply need more listening experiences. Stax doesn't sound like real at all, they sounds like you are in heaven, too Tibet-ish, too clean (note: maybe too Shangri-la). His reference setup is the HSL suit plus a PCM63 DAC cos this setup sounds like real, like the reality, like the sound from the Chicago Concert Hall which he often visits. But at this time already nobody listens to him. According to him: the HSL amp doesn't use output trannies on purpose, and the vol control was based on relays. BTW, T3 coming out in the next year all hail the T3 http://www.fujiya-avic.jp/blog/?p=28326 look at the red words at the end of the page

Dr Fang Bian a few days ago says the BHSE and these kinds of "DIY" or half-diy amps is the main reason that, let a lot of SR-009 get burnt, these amps are simply overpower. Should be extremely careful with, or simply avoid. And then he says his new cans, HSL, is on another level.

Some guys insist MUSES 72320 is better than relay-based vol control, but I highly doubt that. Any tried that? (Let's ignore those CS3310 etc which are not so good, we only talk about that 72320)

Folks told me the ladder/shunt type have only two relays in the signal path... Are the two versions pots from Kevin (the orignal version and the v2) the same design as those designs (two relays in the path)?

I rather go back to the IEEE1394 and save some money.