mypasswordis

Hey, Steve! Hope you've been well. It's fun to talk about Stax, but I miss my K1000 often.

Pretty sure this is a troll thread, but here it is anyway:

Buy a SR-5NBlack and compare (the sound is obviously different to SR-5). This Stax looks more yellow than gold, too; you could try comparing to cheeseburger-flavoured Stax, Stex. While listening to Styx at Stix.

Dumb question, but anyone ever had problems with standoffs? I have some Keystone standoffs I bought from Mouser awhile back that I just tried out and none of the threads feel very smooth/precise when I screw them in. Two of them can't even be screwed into another standoff from the same package... I tried forcing it in one and now it's stuck (no swt jokes, please).

You could put in a timed relay, for example the 555 timer in the T2.

Who cares? The hundreds of thousands of people who resonated with it enough to buy his record. Better question is, who cares about an Internet keyboard warrior's opinion. Why don't you produce your own cd and let us know how it does before making ridiculous and incredibly offensive unfounded insults? Glenn Gould was all about breaking conventions, which is always difficult but his genius made it work. Both recordings are reflections of the same great man, in different stages of his life. If his first recording is a lesson in what not to do, sign me up for the class.

Yah, I'm sure the record that single-handedly launched his career and put him on the map as one of the great interpreters of the 20th century is just a calisthenics exercise hardly worth listening to.

Why not just get the STTH512 like it says on the PCB silkscreen? Or the STTH1210 that I'm using now which I think was part of a previous BOM, or anything similar (STTH812, etc).

Mine does the same thing, except at around 1400V. I just assumed it's because the actual breakdown voltage is higher than the capability of the tester (higher with fresh batteries). It's a 1200V part so the real ones can definitely handle more than 1200V.

Can anyone confirm that the BATE amp board terminal block gnds are not actually connected to the gnd plane? I modified the traces in the input stage to put in the Megatron CCS and noticed after poking around with a DMM that they don't seem to be connected.

If going with stock CCS values, it's around 10mA per tube or 40mA total per rail.

Most Stax amplifiers have multiple sockets.......

.. b-but, you... I... waitwut?

The output voltage is set by the zener string reference unless the secondaries are too low

Buying a dy294 will save you a lot of trouble, especially if you have other parts in need of measuring

How about the SRX revisited? This also might be interesting: http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/electra4.pdfThe circuit is easy enough to p2p and replace resistors with current sources.

By all accounts the Sigma has a large mid to upper bass hump and rolled off treble even though the SR-Lambda which uses the same drivers is very close to flat with a slight midrange emphasis and gently rolled off extremes. I don't think using a driver with more bass (except for the low bass) is going to help the issue, but I haven't heard a Sigma/404 so reserve judgment until then. All this talk of a SR009 that isn't as bright really makes me want one now. Maybe I'll pick up a used pair a few years down the line.

i'm a maybe

SR-202, which should have a sound profile that's a great fit. From memory, it has a large treble presence and extension, and also not much mid bass to lower midrange. I could be wrong and really enjoy the sound like I did the SR-404, in which case the key is to not listen to it too much before ripping it apart. The SR-404 is for sure a bass-heavy headphone, which wouldn't be a good fit for the Sigma anyway.

Much appreciated! I just found a donor headphone for my Sigma shell so hoping to get this transplant project started soon. I was planning on using an SR-404 but after I heard it just couldn't bring myself to start dismantling since it sounds good already.

Made a mistake, the shorter screws are m4 not m3. Anyone have any thoughts? I was thinking to find some sort of male-female spacer but they're pretty much all hexagonal so I'd have to file down the edges. It's also hard to find a spacer that has the thread longer than the spacer head. Then I'd drill the hole in the head to be the right size for the forks to fit in. Hopefully there's a better fit out there.

For the longer screws: total length 14mm thread size m3 head length 6mm thread length 7mm grip length 1mm diameter of head 5mm depth of inside head hole 5mm Shorter screws: total length 7mm thread size m3 head length 4mm thread length 2mm grip length 1mm diameter of head 5mm depth of inside head hole 6mm

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bch1sv5bpgp3gl5/20150216_212647.jpg?dl=0 Let me know if the dropbox link doesn't work. Any leads appreciated!

Speaking of Sigmas, anyone know where I can have new custom Sigma screws made? The slotted ones that you put the arc assembly forks in especially.