bperboy

Thanks! I'm really pleased by how it turned out.

Okay, so I have completed the Leach amplifier successfully! The final output power is around 80-85Wrms per channel. The voltage rails sag under full load. That's a combo of an unregulated power supply and using a relatively cheap transformer from Antek Inc. Sound is pretty good so far on crappy test speakers!

So any suggestions for a good entry/mid level sub, maybe in the $100-150 range? Or ought I to go a little higher than that?

I didn't realize that's how subs integrate into the 2.1 system. I like that.. after I finish the amp, hopefully this weekend or early next week, I'll see how it sounds with the little bookshelf speakers I have now. Maybe next step is to add on an entry/mid-level sub, with an eye towards upgrading the bookshelf speakers..

They look awesome, but completely out of my price range.. I'll keep them on the wishlist though!

Thanks guys.. I'll take a look at these!

I was thinking more ready-built speakers... I will probably think about diy speakers a little later down the road...

I'm just about done building the Leach amplifier (~100Wrms / channel). I was hoping to get some suggestions for first speakers to match with it, probably in the price range $200-400. All I've got now are some no-name bookshelf speakers. Some floor-standers might be nice, but I really don't know too much about speakers. Thanks, Evan aka bperboy Here's one channel completed. I haven't finished building the other channel yet. Forgive the messy wiring; I will tidy it up nearer to the end of the project.

Okay thanks! I got some bigger quick connect terminals.. those did the trick!

Head-Case DIY'ers, I've got a quick question on wiring for neatness. What is a recommended method for tying two 18awg cables from a transformer into one quick connect terminal? Should it be a short piece of 18awg cable soldered to both at one end, adding heat shrink over the junction? Thanks, bperboy

Can you give me a quick paint drawing? I'm having trouble visualizing..

I have been searching the internet for suggestions on how to reduce the crosstalk effect on this system. It seems that if there is an active signal coming in that is not selected, it causes crosstalk. So I have seen an article that uses MOSFETS to ground any unused inputs. Does this seem like a simple and elegant solution?

I am considering working up a PCB design for this, possibly in the fall. There are a few issues that I need to sort out first, notably the channel-to-channel crosstalk. Getting the audio performance of the system set is the most important priority. In terms of user interface, I'll definitely want to add an LCD display to any design I do. EDIT: Whatever the final design ends up being, it certainly won't come close to the Skipjack's price

See this link for my project.

Kevin, can you describe why feedthru occurs? I have the system breadboarded, and I do experience some feedthru. Say, if I've got an input playing on input1, but the firmware is using input2, I can still hear a very faint input1 coming through.

But if power is applied to the switches all the time, that shouldn't be an issue, correct? What would I look for on the datasheets for isolation properties? And how would that work if not all the connected devices were powered up at the same time?

Well, I've been checking out the characteristics of the ADG1604 on the datasheet, and THD is 0.007% over the audible range. Also, on resistance is less than 1ohm over the entire input voltage range for +-5V supply. The frequency response of the circuit is completely flat up to 500kHz, far beyond the audible range. At this point, I'm very dubious of any audible difference between a well-implemented solid-state solution vs a relay solution. Any other responses?

I know that AMB has his Arduino-based system in the works, but I'm at a point in my EE education where I want to design something myself. I'm thinking of the following high-level scheme for a 4-input, 4-output audio switchbox. TI MSP430 microcontroller LCD display pushbuttons ADG1604 analog muxes My question to the other EEs on Head-Case is this: most all of the electronic switchers I've seen so far in the DIY realm use relays. Is there any major downside to using analog muxes that I haven't realized yet? Any reason that I shouldn't pursue this technique? I was wanting to try something that I haven't seen already, and this seems like a very do-able project for me.

I haven't been on the forums in awhile, but I've been working on a PPAv2 / sigma11 in a 20-series par-metal case. I forgot to order 2 0.47ohm 2W resistors for the sigma11, 3 2N5484, and 3 2N5486 transistors for the class-A biasing. Does anyone happen to have those that they could throw in an envelope? Thanks!

One relatively major bug I've been having with 10.6.2 is the inability to write file directories to FAT-formatted flash drives. It's fairly well documented in the Apple forums, and if it's not fixed in 10.6.3, I'll be pretty pissed at Apple.

Just came in today! I can take photos inside without flash! f/1.8 is awesome, especially for so cheap. But yes, the nifty fifty has a pretty plasticky build quality.

Attended the Terre Haute Symphony Orchestra's 'Music of the Night' concert on saturday evening. Night on Bald Mountain (1867) Modest Mussorgsky Danse Macabre, op. 14 (1874) Camille Saint-Sa

It's not possible to hotlink MobileMe photos. Switch them over to Flickr or Photobucket.

Got them a few days ago. Not terribly great.. more a women's watch, so maybe suitable for a gift.