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DIY chassis work

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Ill be making a balanced ckkIII with usb opus dac in one chassis:

ati 737-u

I have drills and tools but can only do so much. The aluminum front panel is very thick and I won't be able to make indents for the two volume knobs, or even drill two basic holes for the neutrik combos.

If anyone has tools to do this stuff, I would be willing to ship the case over. Ill discuss the actual details and sizes etc and the work to be done by aim or whatever.

Besides the aluminum, I will have an acrylic sheet of similar thickness and two pieces of carbon fiber sandwitched together. Whatever is drilled on the aluminum will be done the same on the acrylic.

The reason is, front panel rolling. lol. Aluminum for everyday, polished acrylic/carbon front panel for meets. =P

Basically all I need is two indentations of about 40mm, and in the middle of the indentation, a hole for the volume pot. As for the jacks, Two holes the size of this would be fine.

I can pay by paypal and ship with priority.

Nate? anyone else?

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  • Author

well the panel that already came with it is very nice. I have no idea if fpe allows shipping of your own panel to them. Plus it will be mighty expensive no doubt when all i need is two recessions, and four holes- something that a person with the right tools can do in 10 minutes.

Ill download their program and try it out. Thanks for the info grawk- If they can work on stuff I send, I could make one with inscriptions. Otherwise, Ill try them out for later stuff.

  • Author

EXACTLY!

That was what I would have done, make a stencil with illustrator, then use dremel and engrave it like this

fp.GIF

Probably much easier with fpe. I am using the creator program right now, and it seems very good. Ill see the prices they quote in the end.

I know what those things i was describing is called now, an indentation. Basically I will be using two 48mm knobs, and need a 3mm deep by 50mm circular indentation for each knob.

  • Author

FPE version.

It runs just under 44USD If I use my own panel. If they made the panel, the max would be 4mm, while the one that came withe the case is 6mm.

Here is the actual file:

.fpd file

Agreed -- they work great along the knobs...although...are they going to turn in opposite directions? They almost seem to be pointing in the way that they should be turned. Like fast-forward and rewind on a cassette player. If the knobs are going to turn in the same direction, they should be pointing in the same direction.

Just an opinion, feel free to disregard.

Hug and dance audio - too cute ^--^

the world needs more fuzzy love like that

  • Author

The direction should have been like they are facing the direction of the sound

<('-'<) for L and (>'-')> for R but then it looks like they are running away from each other

so I changed it to (>'-')> <('-'<) to simulate an incoming hug.

If i kept it the first way, I COULD make the left knob turn opposite way to increase volume, using a shaft with a gear and another gear on the actual stepped pot.

Thing is, if someone didnt know, they would turn the left knob all the way "down" then pop it on their ears.. and well.. here comes the "dance" part. Dance of agony.

That just blew my fool head. Please make those kirby dance steppers only 1 step.

The direction should have been like they are facing the direction of the sound

<('-'<) for L and (>'-')> for R but then it looks like they are running away from each other

so I changed it to (>'-')> <('-'<) to simulate an incoming hug.

If i kept it the first way, I COULD make the left knob turn opposite way to increase volume, using a shaft with a gear and another gear on the actual stepped pot.

Thing is, if someone didnt know, they would turn the left knob all the way "down" then pop it on their ears.. and well.. here comes the "dance" part. Dance of agony.

Or you could just wire the stepper backwards.

so I changed it to (>'-')> <('-'<) to simulate an incoming hug.

:dance:

this is postjack approved. also consider my fool head blown.

  • Author

The stepped pot i got already has the resistors attached so I can't really do that without desoldering all that jazz.

I hate desoldering. <----- weak.

Yep..doesn't matter if the signal goes in the "In" pin or the "out" pin....it's just resistors. If you wire it backward the stepper will get louder as you turn it to the left and softer to the right.

  • Author

Ok so it will be (>'-')> <('-'<) with the kirby's facing the direction you should turn for loudness. Thanks for the rewire trick guys!

so I changed it to (>'-')> <('-'<) to simulate an incoming hug.
What postjack said -- awesome; I approve, etc.
Thing is, if someone didnt know, they would turn the left knob all the way "down" then pop it on their ears.. and well.. here comes the "dance" part. Dance of agony.
I've done that. I have an amp whose volume control is labelled "attenuation" and goes from infinity to zero. Having a small lapse in reading comprehension, I turned it to zero (I think it also turned the other way). One only makes that mistake once. Fortunately, it was with speakers, but it was still pretty loud.
I have an amp whose volume control is labelled "attenuation" and goes from infinity to zero. Having a small lapse in reading comprehension, I turned it to zero (I think it also turned the other way). One only makes that mistake once.

Of course now that you've said that without knocking on wood, you've jinxed yourself to repeat the mistake, and likely with far more dire consequences.

  • 3 weeks later...

That is a pretty messed up picture. Where did you get it from?

That is a pretty messed up picture. Where did you get it from?

MOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOTMOT

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