nopants

I got my order, how can you resist work like that sandblasted titanium finish, opted for the tritium tube so I can see things in the dark

I think there are industrial solutions for dust if I'm not mistaken, namely conformal spray. has anyone tried using this? I have a can but I was hesitant to take it to the t2

Have you guys looked into the computer/OS side of things? I've gotten differing sound results using a beater windows computer and a raspberry pi loaded with moodeplayer- hard to say which I prefer. The web interface makes the rpi more intriguing to use, but I can't seem to get it to cleanly switch frequencies on my spdif transport. Lower power draw lets me mess with power supplies to a certain extent. In both cases I'm serving up files from a NAS unit in another room, so I don't have to deal with fans nearby. Re: Craig's post - I've been using ifi's USB cables with the ferrite beads for rx and tx sides, can't complain atm

I was about to say there's a cheaper one out there then I realized what the CAD - USD rate has become...my condolences

I placed an order, how can you resist work like that

I'd be interested in the L700 drivers in a sigma housing, if people are likening them to the 009s that might mean they have excess treble haha on a related note I'm surprised no one has tried to 3d print their own pair of sigmas yet

I do have a spare quad somewhere, I'll dig those up. I've been searching for some info on making the lsk389 adapters as 6dj8 subs as well, does anyone have any links? I have a bunch I bought from pete millett for no good reason.

George's suggestion to up the current limit worked like a charm, everything's up and operational. Sounds good, a bit of popping/clicking but nothing too noticeable. How should I go about tracking that down? For my personal use I don't know if I care enough yet, but I might try to fix it when I redo the internal wiring/etc. Knob courtesy of insanity, I probably should have measured it before sticking it on

Thanks Craig, Paul is going through some health problems last I wrote so I was hesitant to email him again. I'll drop him a line soon though. I guess I should try to order a transformer or two for the carbon while I'm at it, given the circumstances.

Everything lights up fine now, each channel powers up perfectly on its own. Replaced a few LEDs and reflowed some joints. However, both channels powered up simultaneously seems to make the negative rails sag to -515, -450 and -215, I'm guessing that I should shift my attention now to the power supply. What sets the current limits, the 10m90s? Also as a side note, has anyone else used Paul's Transformers for the T2? I'm getting some pretty obscene amounts of hum while testing things.

I had to loosen the heatsinks because when I didn't the face plate slipped and took out the aforementioned LED. the led feeding the 6dj8 ccs still seems to test properly so I'll focus on the negative rail for now so close yet so far

I was only using one umbilical at the time but that shouldn't matter right? Wary of firing up both channels simultaneously though Also are you supposed to hear high-pitched whining noises while you adjust the batteries?

In the process of taking off the faceplate I managed to shear one of the LEDs in one channel. After replacing it a few LEDs no longer lit up (D1, D4+D5), but a bigger concern is that I'm measuring about -500 and -440 for the -560 and -500 rails respectively. Any ideas? When I use the same umbilical for the other channel everything measures fine, -560 and -500. PS I ran the amplifier for maybe a few minutes without good contact to the heatsink (in order to fit the faceplate back on), but nothing blew up.

Yeah I spent extra to secure real sand that was previously verified, big thanks to all the relevant parties there. Maybe I'll use the leftovers to shove a T2 CCS somewhere Does anyone have a part number for the shaft and coupler to connect standard knobs to the rk50? Are there any real issues that require the use of a derlin shaft?

So the only thing I need to adjust for is the 740V in the batteries? I've got one channel powered up where one battery's at 738 and the other is stuck at 781. Edit: everything 740 everywhere , but for some reason one of the tiny psu caps near the ref102 exploded. Major pain to replace, luckily I spotted/heard it before the electrolyte got anywhere. Didn't seem to affect the battery adjustment before I found it though.

technically this also means that the dht could be a sub for the el34 in the tube version of the circlotron right? this is such a dangerous discovery

is the el60 a viable replacement? how do you wire the adapters?

yeah the price of the tubes is kind of a problem, I wonder how they compare though. hybrid dht sounds too interesting to not try.

that was what I was planning to ask, seems like the dht is a straight sub for the el34 for most of the designs

any ac hum problems?

if you can do that can't you make your own dac chips too

No modifications, they just have to be seated properly so the protective mesh doesn't slip off

I've had some decent results swapping in 009 pads for the 007, currently evaluating them

Anything you recommend? I found a fresh pair of omega pads and I want to make sure they last

I use the iusb supply and some of the associated cables because I assumed thorsten loesch cares enough to match impedances for USB data transfer. I'm not sure what to think about the regen because something like what they're advertising requires some fancy re/clocking. I've read about the intona but I'm not really sure what needs to be isolated from what in this case. That being said I'm more interested in the intona than the regen ATM. This all feeds a wavelink hs or legato ii to provide spdif to my Yggdrasil via bnc. I consider these tweaks more directly correlated to the digital performance, but there's too much going on in the regen to draw conclusions. I'm also too dumb and lazy to measure things myself so that doesn't help either. I would be very careful of what you read on computer audiophile