spritzer

That sink isn't needed either. I just put it in there in case I'd want to drive a small heater supply or something like that off that supply.

No, sleep is for the weak...

For the impatient ones, one of my Carbon PCB orders was thought to be lost so I had to double up the orders. It turned up on Friday though so now I have too many PCB's. This version hasn't been tested but it is just a smaller take on the ones I've been using so issues aren't likely. These are my own custom boards so smaller than any of the other ones and with shielding on both the front and the back. Price is 47$ each so 94$ for the pair of boards thanks to my expensive tastes and Icelandic taxes...

Happy Birthday Justin!!!

So you'd want a larger cap? Why? Because those diodes are SiC and there aren't any SiC bridge rectifiers.

442K: 71-RN60D4423F Kevin understood me, major brain fart time... I should try to sleep some more but there really is no time. I did mean the Carbon.

I'd have to agree with you there. The Carbon just does everything right... Edit: I should look into sleeping at some point...

All my boards are custom and for my own use only.

I use playmo.tv to watch Netflix here as well as everything else.

You can lower the current and the amp performs well at 10mA but it's still a lot of heat. Now we could to a board which would fit some larger heatsink which could be mounted to a board (like the 717/727) but it would be pretty esoteric.

Never call me that!!!!

I just wouldn't dare running mains through the same umbilical as the other wires. It's just so Eddie Current and so much fail waiting to happen. Call me paranoid...

What monster 12AU7's are those?

Are you sure that the channel is dead and it is not a switch issue? Measure the top of the large resistors for DC voltage. You should have roughly 0VDC between them and each one relative to ground is +290VDC. Replacement parts for the output devices are all but impossible to source. You need low Cob which is the truly hard part.

Mine will feature a double mains wiring with a separate voltage selector in the amp chassis. Only way to do it properly. Yup, Supremes.

While on the subject, the new Megatron board just arrived: Look Ma!!! Boutique caps!! Well that and a 12V filament for the front end, it's smaller and the ground plane is on both sides.

We should do a layout for this. Well that and the B10. SRPP magic or something like that...

It's been discussed but why bother. The 300V line is already regulated.

SRPP with a 300V tube...

If you want to try and fix anything...then there is this: Jecklin Float amp.... Epic clusterfuck.

It can be improved but why bother, just build a KGST.

Bypass the Elma and see what happens. Those switches are notorious for corrosion and connection issues after a few years.

Yup, that is correct.

Yes but the heatsinks are extra...

No info just yet...