GeorgeP

Great, glad to hear it all worked out! Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

What are you using to insulate your 7815 and 7915?

What do you mean - extra solder at no additional charge! Plus it must conduct even better - lets more bass through.

... though just to be clear, only the headphone on the right would count as the other one is a "double" headphone.

Actually, Ithink this is what he meant....

Could you not use a 2k pot instead of the 1k pot to also deal with the issue, or is that to be avoided?

Although on the pricey side, I have a pair of Senn HD25-1 II for each of my two. They are worth their weight in gold. They are comfy, do not fall off (ever), have enough cord length, and do a great job of providing good isolation on airplanes so they can listen at low volumes (not iem good, but pretty good nonetheless). They fit tiny heads (like 3-year olds), are extremely durable, and you won't wince at using them as well. And they will appreciate them when they get older. I find the little toss away headphones to be just that - and potentially just as costly in the long run. One thing, set the volume for them by listening first. Parenting is a 24hr/day job - not that bad to squeeze out an hour here or there. Just my 2 cents.

If Mikhail did the repair wouldn't that mean he would just glue them to the top cover and not actually attach them to the circuit?

I have returned things to Mouser with no issue and full refund, even where I changed my mind. The real question is who will cover the return shipping on those bad boys - they look almost beer can sized.

But your 4686s may still be okay. Did you check all your parts prior to stuffing? Though if you still need some I think I may have some extra - send me a pm and I will check tomorrow. You are in Canada, right?

That sure sucks. Though I thought the other SumR had sustained some fairly significant abuse before succumbing (apart from the T2 ones that had issues). Assumuming you tested it for shorts already and have concluded so. Which SumR trafo were you using?

When you measured the bias before the 4.7M, did you let it warm up for a while? I found the bias to creep up a bit after 5-10 min and then sit solidly at ~ 580 (580.2 in my case). Can't speak to your + and - . Mine are at 504.0 and 504.3 and they seem to be fine.

I did, thanks. But their "datasheet" is pretty low on information. It seems that the switch itself does up to 250v ac, but the led appears to be offered in two flavours with one being 12v and the other being 220v - but I am just surmising. edit: I see now - he is using the 12v dc version.

Does it also need a low voltage connection for the LED or is in done within the switch itself?

Noticed you didn't have one of the little AMB e24 thingys like you had on your first build - were you doing a Bulgin with or without LED (their LED switches I believe are good for at least 24v)?

Really nice! And tidy looking, actually! What switch did you end up going with?

Allied carries Bulgin, which are very high quality (so does Mouser but they charge more for some unknown reason). For about $15 you can get a 250v (but no led), or 24v with led. Never came accross a version with 250v and a led (guessing it would need a resistor built in).

this stuff is certainly cheaper than buying kapton tape by the roll - and it is already cut to shape. Thinking you could either fold them in half (before peeling them off obviously) and cut out the centre, or use a single hole punch to make two holes for the leads. Definitely a great find!

Where did you find these? I just finished making my own from a 1-inch wide roll (it was not the really thin version, but this stuff is a real pain to work with so definitely not round). But would you still cut out the centres where the solder pads are, or just have the cap leads pierce the tape?

Have you tried "slow-blow"? Maybe the fast blow could be the issue?

For the price of this build (and the fun in building it), it is probably still worthwhile even if you are building the DIY T-2. Then you will know how each sounds and which you prefer. As well, it will give you something to listen with while you get your T-2 up and running.

Greatly appreciated, I will be in as well. But would you prefer "orders" in the thread or by PM for tracking purposes?

Mouser seems to be all over the map lately. Placed an order on Saturday and received it on Tuesday. Before that there would usually be a 2-4 day lag between when the order was placed and when it would ship. The one difference with my Saturday order was that I called on Monday to cancel some backordered items that were reordered with my newer order - maybe speaking to a person caused things to happen faster, not sure.

To these untrained eyes the data sheet seems to suggest only that 30 is a min. But Craig Sawyers' post (and other related posts) should help: Also just typing 2sc3675 in the search bar brings up a bunch of stuff. Others have suggested in this thread that the DY294 is useful to have but can only clear out the obvious fakes - which is better than going in with nothing - but I cannot speak from first hand experience on that.

Not sure if this is an appropriate price ($2.16), but Sears Parts Direct carries the 2sk246gr in case anyone was looking. Shipping in US only, though. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/2SK246GR/0057/528?pathTaken=directMatch&filterPart=&pop=flush&prst=0&shdPart=2SK246GR