GeorgeP

Uhm... this sounds NFSW. Steve's comments were much more tame.

Group buy?

It is just amazing at how brazen these resellers can be. One has to wonder whether they are in on it or whether they are willfully blind (by not testing and procuring from unknown sources). At least people know to check for these things - the problem is that most cannot properly check until they put the part in the circuit and it causes a melt down taking other expensive parts with it.

Excellet work, Ume! Where did you get those cases, especially the smaller one?

That was what I was thinking, but sounds like it is probably his traffo.

Did you happen to measure the offsets the second time your fuse blew? Curious to know whether one of them was sitting in the 400v range. If your traffo turns out to be fine you might want to sacrifice another fuse just to see (though there must be some type of short somewhere to blow the fuse).

But what were the specs? VA and mA on the hv secondaries? Edit: though I suppose it could be anything at this point until you test the traffo to rule it out.

I was wondering the same thing as Wachara. I appreciate the fibres you found were inside the mesh of the very driver that hissed, but you didn't try them out on a different amp just to rule out the amp (particularly given what your amp did quite soon thereafter)?

PM Lil Knight in the group buy thread. On-board is easier and cheaper to build, plus there is no more off-board available unless you have your own boards made.

Some do, I didn't. If it is silent you shouldn't need one, but wait to see if it is still quiet after you wire your pot/stepper and input connectors.

He didn't mean you, based on my reading anyway.

Yes, definitely holes for the standoffs on the bottom covers and also (obviously) holes for the transformers (tthough guessing they were just not in your drawings) - and I am assuming the traffos from KG's original case will fit here as well? Also any sense of the clearances from the board to the top and bottom covers for both the amp and psu? Regarding the comment "You don't want to de-solder anything", would it be advisable for people to use higher quality trimmer pots to reduce the risk of them going noisy (however unlikely that may be)? Bourns makes some higher quality wire-wound ones (instead of cermet - they say its better), but they are about $26/pc instead of $2.60/pc. Regarding the volume knob, were you going to do it like Kevin did where the knob had about 1 inch of shaft that extended into the chassis (you probably don't want the delrin rod extending through the panel bearing)?

Sounds great! Pictures please!

Actually, was directed to nikongod. But yes, there is also the increase by 11 pattern though I was thinking along the lines of the 7 and 7+1+1 (79) = 117.

But don't you need to relate the number to the number 117 in the same way as the other numbers because of the equals sign?

Alternatively, he may only need to replace two rather than all four (in each grouping) - two insulated beside two uninsulated. Just a thought.

Yes, I think that was already covered somewhere in this thread or the KGSSHV thread. But could he not go about isolating them with some Kapton? Would not be pretty and would need to ensure it stayed in place from a mechanical perspective. Obviously the correct parts would be the best approach.

At least once a week for me. Listening to this one now - been years - was from my wife's collection. Really great album, though might not appeal to all the dudes. Don't hold her newer stuff against her, I am sure she had to pay the bills at some point (anything after "white chocolate space egg").

No offence, but these are not very confidence inspiring questions. It also sounds like you may not have read through the thread fully, and this is a very dangerous build given the high voltage.

Did you try pm'ing Tran first - he is usually pretty good with this stuff.

Weren't the 3900pf caps on the psu optional? Or has that changed for the mini version?

I have a couple jugs of acetone so will try that out - I mainly use it for cleaning my bike rims, never thought to try it for this.

Had heard of oil before (and WD-40 in particular) for packing tape glue, but was worried about thoroughly cleaning the through-holes after. So no problems on that front?

Anyone have any quick tips for cleaning all the packing tape glue off the boards? With some work alcohol worked on small patches but some boards are covered, so looking for alternatives...

It was certainly fixed by version 0.5.