chiguy

I wouldn't mind a spare set either depending on price.

I still get a list of all output and input devices in 10.10, however they only show up if they are connected.

Are these the boards using updated sand? Sorry, I not sure which original board you're referring to.

To add to all of this, there are two resistors on each channel board that can be upped to provide some additional protection against the TRS shorting. I don't remember the details but they are over at the AMB forums.

I'm sure you know but be sure to use the non conductive Arctic Silver if you're using it.

Here's a picture of what I described above. http://www.aavid.com/product-group/accessories/mounting-kits

I used metal screws, nuts, and washers like you did but I put the insulating washer on the other side, in between the screw head and 10M90S instead of between the heatsink and nut. This way, there is no metal in contact with the transistor tab. Also, are you using the longer 532-7721-3PPS insulating washers? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/7721-3PPSG/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduh6C0mWin5INivGTZ1BbwH0%2f0f33I4BSQcPNTszO8PP9g%3d%3d I also used thermal paste between the 10M90S and ceramic pad and between the heatsink and ceramic pad. http://www.mcmaster.com/#3883k24/=uxy3cm

The case is a Par-Metal 20 Series 12x12x4 inch in black (20-12124B) with a custom made top panel. I asked Par-Metal to custom make a top panel with extra vent holes. The front panels are from Front Panel Express. http://www.par-metal.com/product-ttp-20series.php

Thanks everyone =) This, very much this. Just curious, what kind of care is needed?

6/32" PEEK screws

Thanks! Awesome work on everyone else's builds too! I got a lot of inspiration from them for my own build. =) There's a fab lab / hackerspace in my community that has a Epilog laser engraver / cutter that I was able to use to make the real panels. I had actually planned to etch the front panel too using Thermark tape (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/38/78/) but decided not to when I saw how nice the plain panels looked when I received them.

I've finished building a KGST and it sounds amazing. Much thanks to the Stax Mafia for an awesome design and making all of this possible, Headinclouds for the group buy, and everyone here for your help and assistance! So I gave one of the two KGSTs I was building as a wedding gift to a friend who just so happens to be a photographer and he gave me in return some pictures of it. I'm still finishing up the other one but here is the finished one. The rest of the photos are here: http://adhikariphoto.smugmug.com/Portraits/KGST/n-9GZfc/

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PV36W105C01B00virtualkey64800000virtualkey81-PV36W105C01B00

You'll be able to use the Thunderbolt ports with higher resolutions at higher refresh rates compared to using the HDMI port. I'm basing this on Apple's information on their HDMI ports https://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs-retina/and the information on Displayport 1.2 which is what Thunderbolt includes for video. Now this really doesn't matter till you're using 4K resolution at 60Hz.

Would vent holes on the sides of the case work? I'm using a Par-Metal 20 series case that has a column of vent holes on the left and right side of the bottom plate and top panel, and a row of vent holes towards the bottom for the side panels. Picture here: http://par-metal.com/product-ttp-20series.php I'm getting a top panel made with more vent holes and was wondering if an additional row of vent holes on the side panels would help.

I had a similar realization after I had populated the boards and was looking to drill holes. My thought was to use the PCBs as a stencil and transfer it to a piece of paper or something.

What are the advantages of Delron over steel or aluminum?

How about 1/2 watt?

Hmm, I went with .5W zeners in the BOM...

Ebay? There's a few online stores that come up with a Google search but I have no experience with any of them.

Thanks! Fortunately I realized I forgot tubes fairly quickly and immediately turned it off (within 30 seconds or so). Everything seems to work (aside from the offset) when I powered it up again with tubes. I guess I'll find out more when I'm actually listening to it.

I powered up the first of my amp boards tonight. I was able to get the balance to 0 but the offset lingers at 20VDC with the trimpot turned all the way. This is using the power supplies that are slightly higher than 350VDC (366VDC). I forgot to put the tubes in when turning on the power for the first time. Would this have damaged anything? Should I drop the value of the 1.5K resistor? What would be a suitable replacement? Should I look for other things to try? EDIT: I just tried a second amp board with the same power supply but this time I remembered to put the tubes in first. Same issue with the offset as the first board I tried.

Now that you mention file vault, I had it enabled for a few weeks before upgrading to Yosemite today (workplace regulations). I ignored the iCloud stuff however.

I agreed to be the guinea pig at work so I did a upgrade/install of Yosemite today on my work MBP and it went fine. Took around 20 minutes which is the fastest I've seen an OS X update go. The new UI however......

Can someone tell me the diameter of a Stax plug? I'm trying to determine how big of a hole I need to make in a front panel using teflon Stax jacks from Justin/Headamp. I'm seeing in pictures that the hole is slightly larger than the diameter of the jack. I would just measure it but I don't have a pair of Stax headphones and I'm still waiting on my SR-407s to ship. Thanks!