chiguy

Updated my post in indicate all V3 boards (6). Thanks! =)

I'm fine with a couple of small sinks if it's better overall.

If going along with this, maybe move the 7815 and 7915 on the left board onto the bracket as well.

I'd be interested in a set of amp boards with the dual power supply and two sets of amp boards with the split power supply (both skinny and fat). 6 V3 amp boards 1 dual PS board 1 skinny left PS board 1 skinny right PS board 1 fat left PS board 1 fat right PS board EDIT: updated upon release of the fat PS boards EDIT 2: updated to indicate all V3 boards

I was given a Chevy Spark (2015 I think) as a rental car when my car was in the shop. The built in sound system had literally no bass. Even an equalizer didn't help. Perhaps I got one with a busted sound system. As for the car itself, I can't really say much about it other than it had 4 wheels and got me from point A to B. 4 wheels and not even a spare. In lieu of a spare, it came with a container of tire sealant and a tiny air compressor. Some googling shows that you can purchase a spare as an add-on. Everyone of my friends who saw the car had one thing to say: "Aww how cute!." The entire experience made me appreciate my own car even more than I did.

I haven't started my build yet but I've been collecting parts for it.

Hole punches for me have deformed the metal around the hole. What do you do to get around that?

Looking back through my email, I've also ordered from Bolt Depot https://www.boltdepot.com/Default.aspx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vGcH0Bk3hg

I buy black oxide screws from McMaster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12X-i9YHzmE

http://www.mcmaster.com/#3883k24/=x8q3rf

I bet you acetone can probably do something but it's pretty noxious and not something you want to be smelling.

Same struggle as well. I've been using a hand drill to start the first hole and then using the drill press to enlarge. I'm also using a cross slide vise on my drill press to allow adjustment while having it clamped down.

Teflon doesn't melt like PVC when you solder it. I generally prefer the 3:1 shrink ratio heatshrink.

I've bought teflon wire from http://www.awcwire.com/ in the past. It's so much better than PVC insulated wire.

Just curious, what benefits would one PCB color have over another?

Dumb question here. Do the version 0.41 boards from the group buy include the jumper for bypassing the servo? Perhaps I'm mistaken but I remember the earlier versions did not.

I carefully enlarged the transistor tab holes with a drill bit and used 3PPSG. Correct way to mount transistors to their heatsinks: http://www.aavid.com/product-group/accessories/mounting-kits

http://www.mcmaster.com/

You need 6-32 peek screws for http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/581002B02500G/?qs=i82%252bPC3tdLOGMQaV7dyniA%3D%3D Also use http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=7721-3PPSGvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-7721-3PPS http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=4170Gvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-4170 for TO-220 devices with exposed tabs.

Most of your questions are already answered in earlier posts. This is the info I have readily accessible. Heatsinks: I used these heatsinks and parts with non conductive thermal grease. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=530002B02500Gvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-530002B02500G http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=581002B02500Gvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-581002B02500G http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=4170Gvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-4170 http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=7721-3PPSGvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-7721-3PPS http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=4880Gvirtualkey53210000virtualkey532-4880 (probably more cost effective to just buy the screws, nuts, and washers in bulk) There are lots of transformer recommendations mentioned earlier in this thread. There are some from Antek and you can get one custom made. I got one custom made. LSK389 Spacers and standoffs will depend on your build. I used the same terminal blocks

Having a hot air gun / rework station has helped me desolder a lot of things. I haven't tried a teflon tube socket before but my general procedure is to desolder as much as possible with a desoldering pump and desoldering wick and use the hot air to free it. I saw a video of a guy desoldering a DVI connector before with a blow torch. While cringe worthy, it worked.

I used transformers from Avel Lindberg for my KGST builds and they buzz a little bit.

I've taken apart a HF-1 and had to use a hot air gun to soften the hot glue they use to hold things together. The key is using the heat gun enough to soften the glue but not melt everything else.