Looser101

How about this one? http://www.softmagic.ca/_e/Film_Scanners/product/A15%2DBBM31%2DC/product.asp?pf_id=9900%2D40905%2D00&dept_id=16-003 It will probably be about the same price after all the other costs are added up.

Anybody know why there are 60 and 120Hz residuals(?) in the Predator graphs?

I'm glad it found a good home, enjoy! Renato

Thanks. Happy Birthday knuckledragger .....and.... Matt. R

Happy Birthday!

If you have trouble finding 10m45's let me know... I stocked up. If you want to use a pcb for the ccs it looks like dsavitsk will have some available soon. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1359849#post1359849 Renato

http://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/aik9pinsterk.html

Sour Grapes! Go back to Head-Fi with your friends.

Happy Birthday Jay! Renato

Found the TubelabSE PCB info here: http://tubelab.com/se_amp_pc.htm

Or the Tubelab Simple SE (ie. not DHT). Also not sure the Tubelab SE board is available which would mean PTP. Renato

Thanks I couldn't remember the proper name. It's definitely not my amp warming up. They don't do it day to day. It was really obvious when I heard them for the first time after I bought them. The change was in the highs so something was going on with the electret. If not charging up, then does anyone have a plausible explanation? Renato

I had this happen to mine. It seems if they sit without being used for a long time they need some break-in time. I attributed it to the electrostatic driver re-energizing itself. Renato

I'll do my best to be there. Who's bringing the RS-1? As Phil... said, there is probably more difference between production runs than between my MS-Pro and Fierce Freak's RS-1 (even the color of the cups). Bring the HP-2 if you want to come. Renato

Parts Connexion just recently started matching 6C33's and selling matched pairs. http://www.partsconnexion.com/econnexion/nov07/november_2007.html#6C33C The Zana Deux is capacitor coupled, no? So, same difference, there is something between the tube and your headphones that will hopefully protect them. Renato

http://www.onlinemetals.com/

Happy Birthday!

"The Patch"

There's some info here: http://renatod.googlepages.com/home It hasn't been updated in a while but the basics are there. Notes/changes: My Aikido is based on the high impedance schematic. Output stage cathode resistors are now 69 ohms and bypassed by 75uF film caps. Components in box "not on PCB" are not used. Output caps are 220uF Solens. R* in PSU is 10 ohms. Diode across choke is deleted. Hammond 169RS transformer. Hammond 169T choke. 15-18v 3A switching power supply, followed by LM350T linear regulator set for 12v for heater supply. RCA 6GU7, Sovtek 6H30 recommended. It will be cased up with I'm done with it. ~Renato

How about one of these? Interesting read: http://www.tubecad.com/2006/05/blog0065.htm

The first question, after whether you are able to safely build a tube amp, is what impedance headphones you are planning on using. My Aikido uses 6CG7 input and 6H30 output tubes. There are some impressions in the Toronto Meet thread on Head-Fi. You can make an Aikido point to point wired but the circuit boards make life easier and give a cleaner appearance (my amp not withstanding). The circuit boards are extremely high quality and well worth the cost. There is loads of info on tubecad and about a million configurations you could use, the choice is yours.

Unfortunately large value film caps are HUGE. Renato

It will do just fine with Grados as long as you use the right tubes and make a couple minor changes. I'm almost famous now... he linked to my amp that was pictured on head-fi. Renato

Hair elastics. Find some that are the same diameter or just slightly larger. Pull the original elastics out of the original plastic holder. With a sharp hobby knife cut the plastic, length wise, along the hole where the original elastics were (I cut where the plastic was thinner). Cut the hair elastic in half so it's a straight piece and knot the ends. Do this to two elastics at the same time so they are the same length. Adjust the length to adjust the tension. Slide the elastic into the slits you just made on the plastic holder, the knots over the top. You're done except if you need to adjust the tension. Renato

Haha, this is priceless. Posted on that other board by swt61: I noticed you mentioned something about letting it dry overnight somewhere. Once you put a few drops of hotmelt glue in the knob and quickly slide the knob on the shaft, it will be dry and ready to use in less than a minute. It's very similar to your sex life...once the shaft is inserted, it's just seconds from being finished. __________________ "I stumbled through my closet for my clothes, and found my cleanest dirty shirt. And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one more for dessert." Last edited by swt61 : Today at 12:30 PM.