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Looser101

High Rollers
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Everything posted by Looser101

  1. There's some info here: http://renatod.googlepages.com/home It hasn't been updated in a while but the basics are there. Notes/changes: My Aikido is based on the high impedance schematic. Output stage cathode resistors are now 69 ohms and bypassed by 75uF film caps. Components in box "not on PCB" are not used. Output caps are 220uF Solens. R* in PSU is 10 ohms. Diode across choke is deleted. Hammond 169RS transformer. Hammond 169T choke. 15-18v 3A switching power supply, followed by LM350T linear regulator set for 12v for heater supply. RCA 6GU7, Sovtek 6H30 recommended. It will be cased up with I'm done with it. ~Renato
  2. How about one of these? Interesting read: http://www.tubecad.com/2006/05/blog0065.htm
  3. The first question, after whether you are able to safely build a tube amp, is what impedance headphones you are planning on using. My Aikido uses 6CG7 input and 6H30 output tubes. There are some impressions in the Toronto Meet thread on Head-Fi. You can make an Aikido point to point wired but the circuit boards make life easier and give a cleaner appearance (my amp not withstanding). The circuit boards are extremely high quality and well worth the cost. There is loads of info on tubecad and about a million configurations you could use, the choice is yours.
  4. Unfortunately large value film caps are HUGE. Renato
  5. It will do just fine with Grados as long as you use the right tubes and make a couple minor changes. I'm almost famous now... he linked to my amp that was pictured on head-fi. Renato
  6. Hair elastics. Find some that are the same diameter or just slightly larger. Pull the original elastics out of the original plastic holder. With a sharp hobby knife cut the plastic, length wise, along the hole where the original elastics were (I cut where the plastic was thinner). Cut the hair elastic in half so it's a straight piece and knot the ends. Do this to two elastics at the same time so they are the same length. Adjust the length to adjust the tension. Slide the elastic into the slits you just made on the plastic holder, the knots over the top. You're done except if you need to adjust the tension. Renato
  7. Haha, this is priceless. Posted on that other board by swt61: I noticed you mentioned something about letting it dry overnight somewhere. Once you put a few drops of hotmelt glue in the knob and quickly slide the knob on the shaft, it will be dry and ready to use in less than a minute. It's very similar to your sex life...once the shaft is inserted, it's just seconds from being finished. __________________ "I stumbled through my closet for my clothes, and found my cleanest dirty shirt. And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one more for dessert." Last edited by swt61 : Today at 12:30 PM.
  8. Here's a picture of the Massive Attack before the new faceplate And the beautiful Singlepower Stepped Attenuator (balanced) that was installed Steve's beautiful woodwork below it ~Renato
  9. Welcome Kontai. Thanks for the informative review. Well... just over a week ago i bought myself the MS Pros. They are very much as you described. Took me a few days to get used to the sound signature. Coming from the MS2i, it was quite a change. Having heard the RS-1s a couple times (from memory), the MS-Pro is more neutral and not as warm as the RS-1. Definitely a step towards the HP-2. So far I am happy with my purchase, since I was looking for a more neutral sounding headphone. Thanks to all who provided their input, and pointing me in the right direction. ~Renato
  10. I was just reading it now, thanks. Btw. They will be powered by a tube amp (not very tubey), so I'd be interested in comments on that in particular. ~R~
  11. No, but I will since you recommended it. I figured I'd post here, since there is too much FOTM and "this is the best evah" on HF. ~R~
  12. Looking to upgrade from MS-2i. I've heard the RS-1 and I like it alot. Never heard the MS-Pro. Any information on the difference in sound signature would be appreciated. All recommendations would be welcome. Renato
  13. My Aikido uses 6CG7 on the input and 6H30 on the output, as already posted. The PSU is a simple CLC for the B+. Heater supply is powered by a switcher and then regulated down to 12VDC by a standard LM350 regulator. The beauty of the Aikido design is its unique rejection of power supply noise, this allows for a cheap and cheerful power supply. I haven't updated it in a bit but there is some more info here: http://renatod.googlepages.com/home -Renato
  14. Interestingly, the Lclock XO3 and the NewClassD Clock were designed by the same person (also the zapfilter). The one you link to above is his latest and greatest. -R-
  15. I suspect the biggest problem with the factory plastic screen is that some of the sound hits the hard plastic and is bounced back towards the driver...I can't see how this can be a good thing acousticly. I've heard Jay's K340 on several occasions now and the upper mids and highs are definitely not harsh at all. The highs are very clean with great extension. On the other hand they are very revealing so if your system is harsh or grainy you will definitely know it. I'd guess that Larry offers the mods as a package because he has found those mods sound best as a whole and leaving something out would compromise the sound signature he has worked so hard to achieve. Also, just to clarify, the cloth even though acousticly transparent is rather thick, presumably to provide some sound absorption thereby decreasing the high frequency response slightly while still providing increased clarity over the factory screen. The biggest problem with the K340 IMO is that it needs a powerful amp to drive them properly, otherwise they sound thin and lifeless. Properly amped they kick ass. -R- Hehe my first post.
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