Pars

I was hoping that Amb would pop in to help you You might take your DMM on ohms mode and measure the V+ and V- to ground on your 3 amp boards with them disconnected. They should not measure shorted (0 ohms), but I'm not sure what a good reading would be, and it would probably depend on probe polarity.

Does this change between the demo version and registered? I scanned the entire new drive for deleted files, but from what I see of the results, the filenames are not preserved and I don't think the directory structure was either.

This might help: http://www.amb.org/audio/sigma22/s22_30v_voltages.pdf The AC voltage going in is somewhat immaterial. As was pointed out, 30Vac * 1.414 = 42.42Vdc - 1.4Vdc drop across rect. diodes = ~41Vdc which is then regulated down to 30Vdc. Checking thru the operating points should get you pretty close to isolating where the problem is. The PSU should put out +/-30V unloaded, and should be put to that point before any of the b22 boards are hooked up. Then as was suggested, one at a time for troubleshooting.

Thanks for the opinions Reks. I was having a hard time getting a warm and fuzzy about the crippled demo modes of most of these (one to the tune of $199 for the version that could actually recover anything). The Data Rescue was the first one that looked like it might actually be worth a shit and not a total pain in the ass. It helps that it is inside the amount that I would consider paying ($99).

I am using it and have been all day. I have not done anything with the new drive however. I also have a firewire drive hooked up which I am using for the scan data destination. I know, not the best but is the only way I can do it (don't have another computer to use). Since I didn't lose anything critical (that I am aware of) this will have to do.

Since i was moving most of it from the boot drive to the 2nd drive, I am questioning whether I should scan the boot drive or the new one? Most of the data had moved to the new drive when my problem occurred, so I initially thought that would be the one to look at. I would like to end up with the boot drive restored more or less where it was at (with the User data on it), and then go about doing this the right way with a current backup.

Unfortunately no. I was moving the entire Users folder over to a new HD when it appeared to freeze. I restarted the Finder, and then moved the Users folder again, telling it to overwrite the existing Users folder I wound up with a Users folder of about 300k (for 4 users)... and nothing in the recycle bin. No current backup, insufficient research in best way to do this (that wasn't it), etc. A comedy of errors today.

Looking at DataRescue II which looks like it could be a winner... but still open to suggestions.

I did something incredibly stupid today and lost most of the Users folder on my system while transferring them to my other hard drive (Move, not copy). My last backup was a year ago, so I am looking for a utility to undelete deleted files. Any suggestions? I don't really want to spend $100-$200 for one as there isn't anything that is really that critical; more of a nice to have. Ones I have looked at so far are: FileSalvage (6.1.7) AppleXsoft File Recovery for Mac (2.0) Boomerang-MacOSX-2.1.9 StellarPhoenix 3.5 Any recommendations?

From your pics I couldn't see al the connections to determine how big of pain in the ass this would be to do. Of course its easy to sit here and say I'd do it

But..... this one goes to 11...

You will need to be very careful with the mounting bolt if it is that tight, as contact with the case on both ends of the bolt will result in a shorted turn... something you definitely do not want.

If it were me, I would wire the left one up like the right with the additional grounds. If that didn't work, I would swap L and R attenuators to see if the problem moved or not.

At home...

I haven't tried the Neutrik Powercon/Speakons, but I have used the JAE aluminum housed connectors and like them. Available in up to 16ga pins (solder), so good for most applications unless you need real high power handling. Similar to the Amphenol mil connectors but more reasonably priced. For some reason, Mouser only stocks these with the chassis connector with male pins and the cable connector with female, which is backwards for a power supply chassis connector IMHO. Digikey carries the female pin chassic connectors.

If you were truly a procrastinator, you wouldn't have two of those sitting in your closet...

Like Naaman says. And these don't need to be matched.

Is the Sigma set for +/-24Vdc? I thought most build b22s for +/-30V? At any rate make sure you have both + AND - 24V relative to GND. Then check the power inputs for each board making sure you have +24V where you are supposed to as well as the -24V. Then start going thru the checkout steps from amb's site.

Agreed. You do not want to use any connector type that is commonly used for something else. Examples: IEC, XLR, RCA, etc. As Grahame pointed out, someone is going to plug the wrong thing in at some point.

Thought you guys were looking for a way to get hi rez outta a player for the Sabre32 DAC? Didn't look at the price. I'll go back to sleep now

Kinda overkill; KG would be proud. Are those connectors on the leads, or just protective caps? Hadn't seen those before. Just make sure you hook V+/V- up correctly to the amp boards so ya don't fry shit.

Not sure, but would something like this be of any use: Audiopraise Vanity :: High Resolution Digital Output for CD/SACD/DVD-Audio

Marc is of course correct. If it is the crossover, then a replacement tweeter isn't going to help you. Funny, I can't find the voicecoils on Madisound anymore. They used to carry a bunch of them (I bought one within the last year IIRC).

2G of RAM (Crucial) and a 640Gb WD Caviar Black HD from newegg for my Powermac G5.

Its pretty much the only thing that could go, unless it was so abused that the cone or dome is farked. What Vifa tweeter does this use?