Pars

Yeah, its a tower (case like a Mac Pro now). So, Seagates aren't any good now? I always used to think of WD as crap, but apparently not anymore? I guess I'm more used to Quantum HDs (can't remember who bought them). How about Hitachi? NewEgg has the 640Gb 7200rpm WD for $69.99 with free shipping (god, that is cheap!). I just need to open the puter up and make suree it already has the cables, etc. I should add some RAM to it while I'm at it (has 1G now). Thanks for the recs.

I need to add a second HD to my G5 Powermac (dual 1.8Ghz) and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations? Should be SATA IIRC. Thought I might get it from OWC or newegg? Something in the 500G or so range I think, but open to suggestions. The PM has an 80G and I haven't filled that up yet (kids are working on it though). I went back 4 pages and didn't see a similar topic, so thought I would just ask.

I don't know from personal experience, as I don't use external DACs, but if you are going to bother, at least use a chunk of RG179 micro coax. If you can get it right and it doesn't cost that much to do it, I can't think of a reason not to. Speaking of jocko, some interesting posts on audiocircle, such as this thread where he takes a squeezebox (IIRC) and mods the SPDIF out for another board member, who hears the differences. http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=45330.0

Yeah, for a statement DAC, that is some serious fail on the SPDIF wiring and lack of a pulse transformer and impedance matching that I can see. I can't understand how you bother to put a 75 ohm BNC on, then just grab some wire from the tool box

I just mix PRPs and MK3s... that is what I did on both my Dynalo (a couple of them) and the Dynahi. No value substitution that way. Ideally, FB to either a pad between R19/R20 and pad at the input where it is currently; make the user choose?

THose look good. The original Dynalo LEDs were the FLV110s, but these have gone thru several suppliers (used to be at Digikey but now at Mouser) and the Vf range is higher (1.6V-2.0V vs. the 1.6V-1.8V on the ones you came up with). C31a is right of R57 and goes from the input to ground. As it is (on the schematic), the servo is driving the input; one thing I always lked about the dynalo, etc. was the fact that the servo did not directly drive the input. I would agree with Marc's comment on R19/R20 if doable. Percy carries a wider E range than PartsConnexion or Soniccraft do. For example, the 30K is available in either Roederstein or Holco. I personally like the Roederstein MK3s, and these should fit (if the board will fit the 1/2W PRPs). EDIT: Looks like the board layout will fit 0.3" resistor spacing; the 1/2W PRPs are 0.4" body length, so guess that isn't gong to work (at least without creative lead bending). Ditto for the Roedersteins )0.325" body, closer). Holco are 0.375" for H4 (and he doesn't seem to have H8 anymore ??) Caddock TF020 are 0.6", so no go there; I'm sure the Vishay bulk foil are similar

Really sorry to hear about your daughter and your ordeal, Hopstretch. Hope she gets better quickly!

From the sound of it they don't actually build their own USB cable (smart move), but modify an existing one that hopefully has the proper impedance control, etc. (would need to research the USB spec to see what this actually is). Typical BS in specing the crystal using a meaningless long term frequency stability figure (ppm) rather than phase noise (jitter).

I haven't paid much attention to his previous introductory threads, but it seems that there was/is very little traffic in this one. Did it really go about a week between posts? (oops, 5 days). Maybe he is questioning whether there is a market for this?

welcome! ? Yeah, sometimes...

I can see it fine. Checkmark, right?

Very nice job Smeggy!

Ahh, perpetual motion machine... good thinking!

Bought 2 though I'm not sure what I will use them for. How do you charge these anyhow? USB? AC adapter (which it doesn't appear to come with)?

hehe and I am old enough

I think these were what you were looking for from ratshack: RadioShack.com - Cables, Parts & Connectors: Component parts: Diodes & rectifiers

Very good imaging, but huge sweet spot, which is one thing I like... you can move around and not lose alot. Contrast that with my twin brother's Apogees... move 1" and you lose it (or so it seems). Nice neutral midrange as well (IMO). My younger brother bought a pair of these and from his description of them, I bought mine without having listened to them. Not the best way of buying speakers, but I knew my brother's hearing and mine matched up well, so if he liked them I was pretty certain I would as well.

I like my VR4s. I'm sure there are much better speakers (these can be upgraded to VR5s I guess) but they are just fine. I've had them probably 8 years or so.

This thin may not use any PCB traces in the signal path, but there has to be alot more than 1.5"-2" of wire. Each of those cables is soldered into the PCB to anchor it, and comes from an RCA jack. More than 2" right there. I would guess that the connection is p-p wired on the bottom from these cables to the relay signal terminals, then these have to go from the entry relay to another or other relays, each wired with additional wire, then finally back to another relay and to another jack. Kind of an over the top cool piece of gear, but as Nate said, at the end of the day, it is only a switchbox. Albeit one with alot of features probably not present on any other piece of gear (ABX testing, etc. from the sounds of it, though I did not read the entire product lit. nor the review).

There is always the Dantimax stuff Dantimax (elektronik) - Selectors_-_attenuators. Somewhat similar to Twisted Pear offerings; the Input 2 offers 2 balanced inputs and 3 SE. I'd need to look at the Manley thing again, but $900 sounds insane for a source selector.

Happy Birthday!

That would be worthwhile provided they come up with it. Sounds like its a good chance that they will. Interesting site, I may have to dig thru that one some. Thanks!

FTFY. I would guess they lied about stock status?

Win! Here I thought you were just showing off your desoldering equipment

I'd take a look here. DIYHiFi.org • View topic - Ground question