justin

It's not, although you could argue that a transformer should be used, or a discrete amplifier. If they're advertising it as a completely discrete amplifier, then it is a little misleading. BTW I have no idea how its been marketed

The vast majority of sources that have both balanced and RCA outputs use an op-amp for balanced to SE conversion, and this is how you get your RCA outputs. What this means is most likely the RCA inputs to the Luxman will be superior, unless you have a really poor quality source with balanced outputs, or are running very long cables. What would be epic fail would be to take a phono stage that has an op-amp at the output for single ended to balanced conversion, and then connect that to the Luxman's balanced input with an op-amp to convert to single ended. But who would do such a thing

I would get a de-humidifier and rub your cat with a fleece blanket

1149 shipped

$20

Pico is equal or slightly better than AE-2 except in battery life and RCA connectors

wat? the standard BH is 10W bias per tube 10W CCS x4 = 40W 10W EL34 plate x4 = 40W 1.6A x 6.3V x 4 = 40W voltage regulation = +15% transformer efficiency = +15% total = 166W then add in the -300V regulators, a couple watts for the +/-15V, and its easily 175W

don't forget the filaments, power supply regulation, and transformer inefficiency

Really not sure that this applies to many amps OTL tube amps with capacitor output (Singlepowers, RSA, many others): All of these if they are built properly have a resistor load on the output to prevent the output capacitor from discharging into the headphones transformer coupled amps: Not sure, do they require a load on the secondary? In the case of headphone amps, many of these may be 8-16 ohm outputs and already have a resistor load internally. OTL tube amps, DC coupled: This is like the Blue Hawaii. A Stax headphone is a capacitor load anyway. I would think the feedback loop would count as a resistive load on the output of the amp.

The amp input would be shorted if the volume is at 0

Here are a few more pics of the first BHSE burning in:

When I asked everyone what color they wanted, that wasn't supposed to be something that could be changed later. Changing the color now would likely mean someone else wouldn't be able to receive what they asked for. Small modifications may be possible Here is the first one trying out the packaging: Goodbye bubblewrap, you sucked

Laser Marking and Laser Engraving Services Available at Northeast Laser & Electropolish "When you see it, you'll shit bricks"

There should be more explanation here. I've never seen a tube amp (for headphones) that is AUTO BIAS. Auto Bias means there is circuitry inside the amp constantly adjusting the bias so you don't have to. Fixed Bias is what is in most headphone amps, meaning you can't adjust it, and it may not be ideal for the tubes you've put in. as Nate said, there are trim pots accessible from the top panel to adjust the amp.

^ fail

i've never looked inside one of these but it might be cheaper for them to include that many connectors, even ones unlikely to be used more than once or twice such as the S-Video. each column of connectors could be attached to one of many identical PCB cards

No, the GS-X does not convert SE to balanced

there are several ways to do it, a transformer would be one of them some other options: - create an inverted signal with a pre-amp such as a Dynalo circuit, but there would be nothing in the non-inverted signal path before the Dynafet. This is done in some expensive stuff like the Pass Labs Ono phono pre-amp - convert SE to balanced with a pre-amp like a Dynalo; see the "Balanced Bridge" version on Headwize Both of the above methods add active circuitry to the signal path that you really don't need. - Use 2 Dynafet boards per channel, one + and one -; Use switches/relays so the inverted board can also be used as only a balanced bridge output from the non-inverted board. - Use 3 Dynafet boards per channel, one +, one -, and one partially populated board as a balanced bridge output. Uses more power and will need bigger heatsinks. It's redundant but it's probably the most reasonable DIY solution if you don't want to add a transformer or additional active stages to the amp

i havent seen the latest schematic but why would a jumper be needed? can you put in the resistors/caps for both feedback methods and then allow the builder to choose which to populate?

maybe but that would be also be a good reason to change all the labels to R1, R2, etc, or at least label the parts that could be changed that way

you really should move the feedback loop trace and connect it exactly to the output pad. same thing w/ servo although that's not as critical. id also add a LPF on the inputs, it was beneficial on the dynahi

That beats the price I found by $5, but there are no recent reviews of "Palm Beach Digital"

i'll be ordering one and the lowest price is $1050 w/ free shipping Unfortunately the Krell SACD Standard I bought has too many problems - unreliable in detecting SACD layers on the first, second, or third try - digital filter select buttons do not work - can't go to previous tracks (back button will only restart current track) - annoying high freq noise in standby mode I'm going to try to get it fixed but my expectations are very low

n/m dont think it will work