EdipisReks1

Occasionally you get a Grindr worthy shot, on the Q. That’s a much better pic than you can get with an anything else. I dare you. Show me I’m wrong.

Testing cameras and lenses for photos at the wedding. Q does close up well enough. I hope this passes the Doug test; it isn’t at eye level and the background is at an angle.

My very-soon-to-be Mother-in-law cut her teeth on a Brownie Holiday Flash. 127 film is still made, so I thought it would be fun to take her pic on one. Found a LNIB model. Well, it had the box, and looks new other than oxidation on pot metal parts, but look what I found in it… you’d better believe I’m going to develop it! I’d guess it was the only roll out through it. It’s not even a fat roll: nice job person who loaded it!

My two favorite cameras. F/3.5 vs 1.7, at 28mm.

Picked up a 75mm f/2.8 for the Bronica body. I think this is going to be a lot of fun, especially when I start my photo project soon.

Oh, you are certainly correct. But it’s just a happy snap taken with many other happy snaps. I definitely should have knelt. I blame my bad back for that one. Also trying to keep up with Heather and Otis, after doing some architectural sign shots (which is what I was actually doing). Not sure how I would have had the sign point into the composition, though… Things to think about, camera (and composition!) wise. Maybe I should just use the cameras I have and get better.

I have my dad’s Rollei 35. Needs a CLA. I was looking at the CLE because it has aperture priority like the M7, but is a lot cheaper. I’m very happy with the Q straight from camera. I would like something resembling this on 35mm. The FM2, which I basically only use for portraits, and (presumably) the Rollei are fiddly. My AF SLRs are big and noisy. A rangefinder with AP mode might split the difference

Anybody have experience with the Minolta CLE? It has caught my interest, especially if it’s compatible with telescoping lenses (I’m thinking of the new Thypoch Simera).

That looks great! I did the same thing, using content aware healing and then fiddling with it, but I couldn't keep the lines nearly as straight. Thank you! If the book ever gets made (keep in mind I might have 5 made), you'll get an acknowledgment. Straight out of camera: I really love how the 28mm Summilux looks, wide open. Some people complain about the bokeh, but I think it's rather nice. Maybe not as dramatic as some lenses, but very sightly on reflections and light sources. The Leica jpeg processing is also pretty decent. I really love this little camera.

If anybody with photoshop skills is willing, would you take a look at this photo? It's shot number one of the project. I can't retake it because they have subsequently fixed the sign. The photo was taken before I know there was crap on the sensor, so there is... crap on the sensor. I have Photoshopped it out as best I can, but I'm out of my depth. It's sort of worst case scenario: round junk over linear patterns. Attached is a zip with my .psp file after I touched it up and the DNG out of camera. I'll give you an acknowledgement in the book, if it ever gets made, if you were willing. Archive.zip

Does anybody have any film projects in the works? I’ll be moving to small town Kentucky, to Danville, specifically, within the next six months, and will be visiting a lot before I move. It’s an historic town surrounded by sprawl. I want to document the storefronts and signs of the historic downtown with those of the sprawl that has grown around it. I envision having a few books made and sold at the local historical society gift shop (they sell lots of boutique local things, so I think it’ll be no issue having some Printique books there, just to share).

I’m glad all of my cameras have firm leatherette: the soft stuff definitely is the devil. How did you clean it up? I know there are products for it specifically, but I’ve always used isopropyl alcohol, with mixed results.

For it only being half a stop brighter, the finder on the Yashicamat LM is a lot more usable than the Yashicaflex C, especially since it has a grid and a focus circle. Surprisingly the light meter seems to be about right, which I’m happy for as it doesn’t have a cold shoe for my little Reflx Labs light meter (I would otherwise just use my phone, but it’s less fun to have to pull something out of my pocket to use). I’m looking forward to running some Portra 400 through this.

Not terrible for a camera with focus issues (that was the N8008; half my shots are super soft; F100 hopefully doesn’t have a similar issue). HP-5 definitely wants more exposure: this shot was taken in bright sunlight at the box ISO, and I would have gone at least a stop faster in hindsight.

Accidental double exposure and accidental cat.

I’m looking forward to it! Everything I’ve read suggests it’s perfect for my needs, and the prices are right. Just need to figure out what lenses I want.

Picked up a Yashicaflex LM with working light meter. And a Bronica 645 ETRSi body and metering finder. Will be a while before I have Bronica shots, as I don’t have lenses yet, but I think that will work. The LM has a much brighter finder, supposedly, than my Yashicaflex C, with better optics on the taking, and a ground glass with a grid. It was $100, so I’m not to worried if it’s no better than what I have.

That is way too organized for me! I guess I need a digital back on my F100. Or a moleskine. That’s a good pic, BTW! Got the indoor portrait setup set up. I have a bunch of AI lenses, but I find the 50 f/1.4 to be great indoors. I’m in the same boat. It looks like any of the 14” capable printers are good, but they are pricey and take up a lot of room. Why I haven’t gotten one yet.

Me too! Speaking of Cartier, a medium Santos came my way. I’ve had the large for years now, and love it (it was my everyday watch before the Apple Watch), but the Medium really has a totally different character. It almost feels vintage, whereas the large feels thoroughly modern. Almost feels like an old Galbee. On my 6.75 inch wrist, anyway. The large wears like a Speedmaster. Definitely larger than my 40mm round watches, as it should. The medium wears more like my 35.5mm cushion Seamaster, and definitely wears smaller than a 1675 GMT.

I wish I had EXIF: I wanna go back and shoot this whole cemetery with the same setup. I know I was shooting HP-5 in a Nikon; maybe my 35mm f/2?

This is my favorite candid portrait taken with the Yashica: it looks like it should be 1994 (even has an ashtray!). Critical focus isn’t bad if you nail it, but it’s a bit of a chore with the waist level. I wish the darkroom scanned medium format at 36 like the 35mm, instead of 20 (it’s probably 24 or something at 6x7): I feel like I’m focusing a lot more resolution than the scans give.

For the Yashica? Split focusing would be great on any TRL; I dunno how many have one. I guess that’s what you mean: consider a third party screen. Probably not for the Yashica, it isn’t very good, but I could see it on an Autocord or Mamiya C3! I see myself with either a Mamiya 6 or 7, in 2025. I haven’t shot 6x7 yet, but I like 6x6 a lot.

If I’m spending Rolleiflex money I’m just going to save up and get a Mamiya 6! Minolta Autocord with meter is likely my next purchase, and I’ll just get more practice with composing. I really do think the incredibly dim viewfinder on the Yashica is the biggest problem for me. I picked up a variable diopter for the FM2. Cheaper than getting new glasses; I find critical focus very hard to get if I’m even a little bit off, of course, so it’s great being able to dial in with my imperfect corrected vision. Oatmeal Johnny was made for the camera. A combination of methods and equipment, but the same cat.