aerius

Depends on how the Lowther OB is run. If it's a just a lowther with a bass fill driver, then yes, but if it's a de-whizzered Lowther with a bass fill and a tweeter that's crossed over at around 4-5kHz, then no.

The small Coincidents are rather optimistically rated, at best they're around 90dB efficient or so, not the best match for a 5W amp. It'll work but only at low levels, the bass farts out when you try to crank it. Coincident's big speakers work far better with low power amps than their small ones. Personally, I think size does matter in speakers, especially high efficiency ones. For whatever reason, high efficiency drivers seem to need a larger box or the lows & mids don't sound right, at least to my ears. Stick a Fostex in a bookshelf speakers sized box and it sounds rather forced and strained, either that or the bass needs to be rolled off early to keep it in balance. But put it in a nice floorstander sized box and it opens up nicely, the dynamics are better and it sounds less like a box. I think the same is true of all speakers, but more noticeable in high-eff ones since there's not nearly as much room to EQ and fix things with the crossover without dicking up the sound and killing the efficiency. My personal choice would be either the Fab Audio Stonehenge or their flagship Model 1. Both will play real loud on 2-3W, and though they're not as neutral as say, a Quad ESL57 or Living Voice OBX-R which are my benchmarks, I find they have far less colourations than Omegas or anything else using Fostex or Lowther drivers. Better than the Reference 3A DeCapo's as well. But they're big, especially the Model 1.

A long time ago they used to have chicken pox parties, where if one kid in a community got the pox then all the other parents would bring their kids over so that they'd also get infected. Basically, it served as a way of immunizing people against chicken pox, getting the pox as kids was a bit of a pain, but it sure as hell beats getting it as an adult and dropping dead. Children had much better survival rates than adults so you might as well get it as a kid and be immunized for life that way.

Oh...oh...well...nevermind then. It's just that a lot of the sextrade workers in my area are from Hungary & Romania, so I thought you were implying something about going to the source and scoring there.

I could, but prostitution is decriminalized where I live. It's kinda funny, prostitution is legal, but soliciting a prostitute isn't. Which is why we have a million ads for "escort services" in the back of some newspapers. Go figure.

Why go to a cuddle party when they have sex toy parties?

I call dibs on his kidneys!

I'd have to say speakers still win out in absolute detail, granted, I haven't heard an optimized Stax or R10 setup so that might change things. However, I have heard stock HP-2's, K1000's, and RS-1's on pretty much the best setup money can buy and they're still outclassed by something like the Living Voice OBX-R's, and those aren't the last word in detail & resolution. For instance none of the headphones can clearly differentiate between the echoes of the spring reverb and room reverb of the guitar in "Crossroads" from Whites Off Earth Now!! by the Cowboy Junkies unless it's cranked up to the 85dB range. OBX-R's can do it at around 75dB or so, I can hear more details more clearly at a lower volume.

Interesting, I've heard the Class

Penguin gets raped by a seal

Yeah, I didn't mean to rip her anus last night when I was banging her with my big black cock.

Personally, I prefer "bass-lite" and "where's the damn bass?". Then again, I believe a Grado PS-1 has a realistic and proper amount of bass, so almost everything else is lacking in lows.

Yup, the tips are only good for a couple projects before they start getting eaten away into uselessness. If you're only going to build a project or two it's no big deal, but if you plan on being a regular DIY guy you'll want to step up to a better iron like a Weller or Pace.

It doesn't. If you go to head-fi and search through the Senn 650 threads from when they were first introduced, you'll see people saying that the damn things started sounding like ass after break-in. For the first few months after the HD650's intro, some people bitched that it sounded broken after being run in for a few dozen hours.

Silver mica. They're the only ones my local surplus stores have in the low pF range.

Grid neutralization works, but it can have issues. Sometimes it can cause instability, sometimes it can cause ringing on transients, and some say it just sounds funny. I've generally had good results with neutralization and have been using it in all my P-P amps. Personally I find transformer coupled amps to be more musical AND accurate, mind you I haven't heard a Zana Deux or any of the other high-end high current output OTL's whereas I've sampled some stupidly good transformer output amps. I like transformers since it gives me more tubes to choose from when building an amp, if you want high current low output Z from an OTL you pretty much have to use a 6AS7, 6C33, or other such large output tubes, while with transformers I can use 6BL7's, 7044's, and even 6SN7's if I wanted to.

2 words. Bas Rutten.

Just don't build it with the 6C45P or 5842 on your first go, those tubes are damn twitchy and require a really good clean layout or else they oscillate at some absurd MHz range frequency. Personal experience, I learned that the hard way. You might get lucky, but the odds are against you. I'm looking at that one too, problem is I can't source the transformers at a price I'm willing to pay. With good transformers you're looking at something like $500-1000 for transformers alone, the parts cost gets out of hand real fast.

170 IQ. Yeah, sure, whatever. And my dick is so big that all my pants have 3 legs.

No, but there is a TooleAudio Balanced Mosfet Amp. It's exactly the same, but completely different.

He should put "1 of 50" on every single one of the 50 amps he makes. Everyone gets the lowest serial number, and it's also not a lie since every amp is one out of the 50 or however many amps he makes.

Those are cock rings.

Try this one. I'm using this for my RS-1 right now and I'm quite happy with it. Instead of the 1+1:1+1 phase-split transformer that's on the schematic, I'm using an old UTC 1+1:1.5+1.5 that's wired up in reverse so that it's a step-down instead of a step-up. Depending on how neat your wiring layout is you might also have to adjust the value of the 4pF grid neutralization caps, which should be >400V silver micas. 4pF is a fairly safe value to avoid oscillations while speeding up the amp a bit. The cap between the centre-tap betwen the output transformer and the cathodes which I forgot to label can be anywhere from about 20-50uF, use a motor run cap that can handle 330V or more. I've wired the Lundahl as a 11k to 8R output. All caps in the PSU are 330V motor run caps, not to be confused with motor start caps. Motor run caps are the big oil impregnated poly film caps, like the ones found in n_maher's Menace amp.

I thought the duct tape part would be enough to tip off that it was clearly sarcasm.

Duct tape. You wrap the caps with a couple layers of duct tape, then duct tape it to the chassis. One of the neater solutions I've seen so far use plastic battery holders. The caps just happened to fit nicely in a AA or C size battery holder, so the guy just glued the caps into the holder and screwed it into the chassis.