aerius

The output is taken from the plate. Thing is the 6C33 has a pretty low plate resistance, I think it was somewhere around 90-100 ohms so with a bit of negative feedback around the tube the output impedance can be dropped to a reasonably low level. I remember KG posting the numbers somewhere but I can't find them at the moment.

This is why I'm happy there's a bunch of electronics surplus & parts supply stores in my area. There've been so many times when I've forgotten a resistor or a jack or some other stupidass part, and then had to make a run to the store so that I could get my project started.

This. I'm told there's now a slightly improved variation using WE 205E's on the input, but I haven't heard it yet.

There are two kinds of elitism, the bad kind which involves people who are born into high status and are way too full of themselves, and who believe that by nature of who they are they deserve to be respected and worshipped. The other kind is what we have here, people who through their work & experience have gained a ton of knowledge, far above that of the average person, and are willing to share their experiences. This is the good kind of elitism, educated viewpoints & opinions which have something to back them up. If for example I say "XYZ sucks", I can and will tell how it sucks, why it sucks, and the technical reasons for the how & why. Everything I've said here, I'll say to someone's face. And I have, in real life. Hell, this forum is tame compared to what I'm used to. You really need to read more of the forum. Seriously. Either that or work on your reading comprehension.

Yeah, that's right, I must be totally mad because I'm swearing at you and calling you a socially retarded dipshit. Project much asshole? I'm swearing at you because you deserve it and it fucking amuses me. It's not every day I get to call someone a mung sucking assclown.

Are you just stupid or are you socially retarded? You've just done the equivalent of walking into a blue collar bar and yelling "hey everyone! I own the damn factories you work in, and I make $5 million bucks a year, and lemme tell you something, I know how the world work and you don't, and that's why I'm rich and you're all jealous of me!" And then you wonder why you're not getting a warm welcome.

markl, let me put this to you straight. Pretty much everyone here already knows that you get review samples, and that manufacturers ply you to review their wares. You've alluded to this on Head-fi in the past, it's not a secret. We know, but we've been more or less indifferent until now. Why? Because up until now you've had the good sense to keep it quiet, but now you've decided to be an egotistical jackass and brag about your super special industry insider knowledge and powers, and how it makes you all special. At best, it's goddamn fucking rude and shows a complete lack of class. In smaller words, it makes you look like an asshole.

Damn right. I'm a semi-active member of the audiophile group in our area, many of us are longtime members of one audio related board or another, a surprising number of us get beta testing & review samples from various manufacturers. It's not a big deal, and it's certainly nothing to brag about.

Hey! Look! A dickwaving contest! I'm more important than you guys!

It's on my list of things to do, I plan to get around to it eventually but it's probably going to take a while.

And that's just fine. If you're upfront and say "I want ownership of my mods and I want to make fucking money off them", that's cool. But when you imply in one post that you want control & ownership of the mods, and then two posts later you say "but what about the poor people who can't get my mods if they can't do it themselves?" when there's someone else offering to do them, it makes you look like a lying sack of shit for trying to have it both ways. And that's why I called bullshit on you. I couldn't care less about others making a profit, hell, I made more money than I care to count with put options on BSC and Lehman's. You wanna make money, go for it, just don't fucking lie about your motives.

What a load of bullshit, when in a previous post you wrote: So if your object was getting the mod out there and providing a source for modifications for those who can't do it themselves, then the objective was already met as there was someone offering to do the mods for other already. You didn't have to get into the mod business if you didn't want to, all you had to do was say "sure, go ahead, do it, spread the word of the markl mod to the people". And markl mods would've been available to the people who couldn't do it themselves.

You know what's funny? That happens every single day, multiple times a day on DIYaudio. It's not a big deal. Nobody cares about giving away years of knowledge that was learned the hard & expensive way.

This is not Head-fi, let loose, say what you really feel, you can even use fucking swear words. That's a dilema? Let's see, you're a well respected long time member on Head-fi, if some schmuck wanted to rip off your mods and do them for a fee, all you need to do is start a thread saying "that fucking assclown is ripping off my hard work, don't do business with the cocksucking dipshit", and people will listen. You can slime him so hard that he'll get death threats and angry calls & emails at all hours. If someone wanted to profit off your work as you claim, you could've fucked him, but you didn't. I find it hard to believe that this course of action never crossed your mind. By the way, I've been in your exact same position when I was dicking around with mods on my K340. The thread is still there on Head-fi, I still have all my saved PM's of people asking me to do the mods for them, and offering to pay me for it. I have PMs from people asking me who can do the mods for them. I could be around $2000 richer right now just from those PMs. I told'em I don't do mods, I refered them to others who had successfully done the mods, as well as commercial modders such as Headphile. I've spent close to two years dicking around and improving my K340, and every last thing I've done is available to the public for free. I don't give a shit about "owning" the mods, I don't care that Headphile does a simpler version of them and charges a crapload of money for it. It ain't important to me, it's not some earth shattering invention, it's just common sense stuff that anyone with half a brain could come up with given enough spare time and that's why I don't care if others are making a crapload of money off it. If I didn't come up with the idea, someone else would've, and it's not like my idea was original in any way since many others have applied similar principles to other headphones. I just happened to be the first to adapt prior art to a K340, and you're the first to adapt what has been learned in the past to a Denon. I ain't special, and neither are you, both of us are just adapting ideas which have been around for decades, and which have been used for ages in speakers & headphones.

I haven't heard a single one of these amps, I'm totally out of touch with the solidstate amp world. The last high-end solidstate amp I heard was the Dynahi and that something like 3-4 years ago. But that's ok, cause

Some ovens and older kitchen appliances also have some nice knobs & dials you can steal. Take a walk down the street on garbage day with a couple screwdrivers and you should be able to find something.

Similar electrical characteristics as a 45 as far as Rp and power go, but in terms of distortion harmonics it's not even close. The distortion harmonics of 45's, 50's, and AD1's is literally unmeasurable at any reasonable listening level. Design the amp properly and the 2nd hamonic will be over 100dB down from the fundamental, and everything after that is buried in the noise floor. 6SN7's, 6BL7's, 5687's, and 6EM7's will generally be somewhere around 50-75dB down depending on how good the design is, still orders of magnitude worse than a 45.

No, it doesn't. Maximum plate dissipation on 6DN7's is 10W, with a plate resistance of around 2.5k. For a 2A3 it's 15W and 800 Ohms, respectively. I have a whole box of 6EM7's, 6DN7's, and other such dissimilar triode tubes, they're not as good as the two RCA (dual plate) 2A3's I have. The output section on those dissimilar triodes is basically the same as one section of a 6BL7 or 6BX7, good, but still not as good as 2A3's, nevermind the AD1.

This is why I'm damn happy there's a large electronics surplus store near me where I can pick up parts for pennies on the dollar. Of course there's no guarantee on the parts and I've had a couple things blow up, and that can be a bit of a bummer...

My experience has been the complete opposite of 5687's, I've yet to hear an OTL sound as good as even my lowly DIY tube amp, which uses $20 toroidal power transformers as the output transformers. I've heard more Chinese tube amps than I care to count, I've heard the Singlepower PPX3 Slam, MPX3 6BL7, and SDS-XLR. The last can beat my amp in resolution, but gets thumped in snap & dynamics, while all the others are soundly beaten in all respects. And that's before I slapped amorphous core Lundahls on the outputs of my amp. And there are still 3 fundamental design improvements I can make to my amp, all of which can signficantly improve the sound, but I'm just too damn lazy to do them.

Which would point to transformer output amplifiers being the optimal match. My DIY tube amp as is will put out around 700mA, and if I don't mind running the tubes hot I can push the output to over a full amp. No OTL is going to match this without a stack of large power tubes. Stick 6BX7's in the output of my amp and crank'em up and I can have an output impedance of under 3 Ohms and a full amp of current available.

Silicone rubber washers, or possibly silicone caulking, or both. Silicone rubber can stand up to fairly high temperatures without melting like regular rubber. Just make double sure it's silicone rubber, cause regular rubber will die pretty fast if it doesn't go up in smoke immediately.

About 40 hours or so on my graduation day from uni. Since then it's been my goal in life to sleep a lot every day. Now I rarely go for more than 13-14 hours without sleep, and I haven't gone past 20. If I had my way I'd spend half of every day sleeping.

Note for the future, Krazy Glue is your friend in this situation. It seals the cut and stops the bleeding instantly and keeps the cut from opening up again until it heals. I learned this working as a bike mechanic where we'd get nicks & cuts on our hands on a semi-regular basis.

I'm going between squished bowls and flats depending on the music, most of the time I'm using squished bowls since they have a nice balance, but sometimes I want the extra bass to fill out thin sounding CDs and switch to flats.