kevin gilmore

5V thru a resistor or 12V driving the cpc1117N opto coupler so after 30 seconds you apply a voltage, delay timer 555 or similar, same as T2

the resistor marked open, put 100k there and see if it makes any difference. but with all tube amps, you really need a delay on the high voltage, most of the current high voltage boards have a switch, but you need a delay board to drive them.

no feedback and a voltage gain between 500 and 1000 yep that is going to work, for at least 15 minutes till the tubes drift.

both joe's av and abes of maine are listed on LG's website as non-authorized. If you buy from them and there is a warranty issue you are out of luck. abt gave me a healthy discount in the way of an immediately useable cash card for $500, and the tv is the best thing I have seen ever. although due to the shiny front screen I had to rearrange all the track lighting to get rid of reflections. and then there is this https://www.engadget.com/2017/06/23/sharp-oled-tv-rumor/ so in about 2 years there will be oled competition.

a bit more current to bring the plate voltage down a bit

noise level due to input tubes?

That resistor was for lowering the gain when using the original opamp and a pair of diodes. will add a jumper once the board is verified

happy it works. now for a version with tubes as the constant current sources And a cherub has just informed me a t8000 is headed my way I like retirement. going to a hamfest tomorrow to see what I can find to update some of my very antique test gear

Short in the transformer to ground, seen it before

amp schematic uberamp2.pdf

looks fine to me, the oven door is no more than 2 inches in front of the cabinet faces. The previous oven which was a built in was probably 1 inch in front of the cabinet face all the heat goes up the back splash and under the feet of the oven out the front. favorite place of the dogs when the oven is on.

yep, and requires 60 amp circuit 220v

Before I got the Wolf oven/cooktop, I used a single burner cheap thing. Worked great. make sure you try a magnet on the pans you plan on using, some kinds of stainless pans are non magnetic and will not work. also they use 80% of the power of a typical kitchen circuit, so you can't use most other things at the same time

sounds like a shorted zener also easy to fix

pretty sure i found the right source file, will have to look later i got to get this crap under control somehow edit: fixed board layout for future use if any kgsshvpssicfetsingle2newstretch2 - CADCAM.ZIP

edit: found the output file, but no source file. (or I named it something stupid) but from the dates, no matching source file

biggest problem with this is that it can't handle anything like 1kv with the parts shown you can replace the lnd150 with a 10m90s or ixta01n100d cascode, then also use a ixta01n100d as the current source device. will test later

if you are going thru all that effort (and its a good idea) might as well add some hall effect devices on the power rails to monitor the bias current. something I did in the uberamp quite a while ago and that made the bias super stable, set it to what you want and it works. then if you want to get super silly, add dynamic bias

Bought the lg 65 oled, will be here next week

other crazy idea for dc to dc converter, using new products one of these the emitter http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/VCC/VAOL-5EWY4/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhNUPpEGi%2fTWzIKry8%2bJh8FybMNufznF7kCONNnK6Yvsg%3d%3d and one of these as the receiver http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/AM-5904CAR/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugs7g8VUByJ5oE9GbMGgLjolVm%2fi%2bg9ILY8mwYKK3C03A%3d%3d

I just realized that my sharp 65 inch will be 10 years old in august. And there are visible streaking and non-uniformities. So its time to replace it.

really think you should add the t2 current source modified with 2sc4686 and cascade current source to drive the led reference, that still synthesizes the best of everything

I will have to look that later, but I took the tube piece from the GG design edit: this is the same as the T2, so it is what I wanted.

the BH has the extra power supply on the amp boards that takes power from the negative rail, so hence the increased current. all the rest of the amps should have roughly the same current in both power supplies

magni, magni2, magni2uber, jotunheim,liquid carbon, and the new headroom amplifier. None of these things have heatsinks of any kind on the output transistors and thermal stability is questionable, and then they overheat, and long term reliability is non-existant. there is a reason why you are supposed to put the thermal compensation diodes as close as possible to the output devices. Same problem with the singlepower squarewave but a bit more dramatic.