Fungi

I only have the mkII, but I haven't heard any reports of them being changed internally, and my thoughts on them closely resemble another acquaintance's of his K271S.

Inclusion of velour pads, slightly different parts (the emblems and such). Otherwise they should be the same.

Yeah, I just did and it didn't light up. Looking for the other LED now.

D1 is whatever kind of diode you want, but yeah Tangent suggests a crowbar diode there. I (foolishly, in retrospect) left it out.

Be sure to watch this in HD. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pXfHLUlZf4]YouTube - Jizz In My Pants[/ame]

I'm pretty sure the LED is in correctly: LED - long leg (anode on the datasheet as well) - blue wire - square pad - RLED - V+

You should get some mouse gestures going for your browser, or get one with them built in (I use the Logitech MX518, which is wildly popular and goes on sale for $35 occasionally)

Datasheet is right, and TLE does split the voltage properly. With the LED, should I test the spare I have? Based on the schematic if 24V is going through properly (which I assume it is based on the 12V after TLE) it should light up.

I covered that in an earlier post. Buffers are LMH6321s soldered on the bottom in accordance to Tangent's "leave pin 5 lifted, don't use R11", pic attached. How would I test the power supply?

EDIT: Dammit, how did I miss the "dynamic" part.

How is assuming that one person's headphones are broken not an attack on that person's integrity?

Yeah, datasheet says pin is + and that's how I have it hooked up. Opamps removed. I did the measurements on Tangen'ts basic amp testing except for current draw testing, anything else I could try?

Yeah, 24VDC

Yeah, quite likely. The 307A was definitely a nice looking amp.

AC adapter measures 24V properly Power GND to OG: 0.2mV V+ to V- on each chip: about 1.3mV IG to V+/V- on each chip: 0mV OG to OR/OL: about 0mV I was mistaken in the first post, it was the AD8620 LR chip getting hot, not the AD8610, and the going back and forth was probably me not having my leads pressed up against something correctly. And I just realized I need to use the IR/IL/IG 2 for the pot I'm using, but that still doesn't solve the mystery of the non-lighting LED but the datasheet says the longer leg is the anode and that's what I have hooked up.

Labels covered up by jacks, on/off switches being flipped from the norm, fading letters, I just don't get why someone would do custom panels and make those kinds of mistakes/decisions.

I believe he still uses the SRM-717.

http://fuchinove.chillout.jp/img335.gif Blue is normal/weak fit. Red is good fit+seal. SR-007.

I heard she likes technical death metal.

If you're going to get the HD650, first you have to like it enough to try and amp it better. Second, it's probably just better to wait until you have the money for a good amp. Anything $200ish isn't going to be GREAT, especially if it's not a DIY offering at near parts cost.

I wouldn't even consider balanced an option at this point for you. It pretty much requires an overhaul of the entire rig.

^ This is the link to one of the posts, navigate back to the thread and flip back for pics of tyrion's "gift"

You should look into Sennheiser or AKG, or actually STAX. I'd lean towards STAX > AKG > Senn.

Japanese style omelette thing. It's called tamagoyaki.