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Happy Birthday John! I hope you have a great one!

I might be interested in a case group buy. I would need 3.

Yes, that is fantastic work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The THAT chips aren't between the regs and the power input for the amp sections. The input section of the amp obviously wouldn't work without something being in there. From what I'm seeing in a sim, nothing bad would happen. The outputs won't be biased, etc., but only seeing low-level voltages where I looked.

Ehhh, something sounds very wrong... the mini shouldn't load that supply that much, and it shouldn't be running that hot. Even with the PSU being plugged into the offboard reg holes, the onboard regs are still in circuit, with no easily removed component to isolate the amp channels from them (short of cutting traces). I would carefully go over the board, making sure that everything is in the right place and correctly oriented, and no solder bridges that you can see. You might also post some good pics of both sides of the board at sufficient resolution and maybe one of us might spot something.

Maybe something like this https://plugable.com/2011/07/12/installing-a-usb-serial-adapter-on-mac-os-x/ Not sure if monoprice has anything

RIP Ray and John

The schematic I have says OP27. diffinput3.PDF.pdf

How fucking intuitive .08" = 2.032 mm. .05" = 1.27mm I also take it this doesn't have anything to do with the "Resistor - European Style - 0805" in Kerry's BOM?

If you look on Mouser, for example, there is a metric case code and an In case code. There for example isn't a 0805 case code for metric, but there is for inch.

I always just use Carbon Copy Cloner on a Mac, but yeah, a fresh install, particularly on a Windows machine that likes to eat its registry, is always a good idea. I just kind of inherited a 2010 iMac from my boss (technically my boss' boss). He had asked me to help him install a new HDD into this. When I wasn't looking, he kind of ripped that fucked up LVDS video cable off the motherboard. Once we a) figured how it was supposed to go back together and 'b) got it put back together, the first time up the video came on, but with no OS, the ? screen. After turning it on/off a couple of times, no video. He then took it to the "geniuses" who told him the logic board was bad. I told him I'd take it home after pulling the new HDD for him to return. New video cable ($15) and working computer, other than it needs a drive. I had a 2T WD Green EARS drive which I seemed to recall I quit using for backup because I didn't trust it. Formatted and tossed that in (after booting from the new SSD I got for my mini). Just needs a keyboard and mouse (and a different drive as that WD is SLOWWWWW).

No, just financial CYA... based on insider info

Brings up an interesting issue... what is the difference between European style and US style SMD parts?

Arghhh! I feel for ya Nate, though I’m sure your snowblower is a lot bigger than my puny single stage. Stay safe! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks OK from what I looked at. Didn't do a full compare. Trace clearances are tight; the trace running down the left side of the right bank of diodes (when viewed text correct way up) is tight on the pads; same with the trace running between the bottom 2 rows of diodes in the left 2 banks. How big in diameter are the two caps? 35mm? EDIT: Needs MOAR outputs (make the board bigger... still small at 100 x 110

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FUCKWIT ehh?

Not really in contact with R10, so no, I don't think so. Of course sims aren't completely accurate either.

From what I recall when viewing the gerbers, it was around 106 x 96? Larger than I can do in my free Eagle copy. I’ve taken to using Diptrace lately for a board I sent off for production that was 142x95. It seems easier to pick up for me than KiCad, but I’ll keep looking at it. IMO, Eagle is shooting themselves in the foot with their pricing, particularly since Autodesk bought them. Integration with Fusion360, while in the “gee neato” category, isn’t useful enough to make me cough up for it. Others mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had tried doing some mods to your layout in KiCad (going back to the RS402 bridges, and adding a Phoenix 508/Molex KK jack that I did in an Eagle library). I was having a hard time figuring out the libraries in KiCad and the schematic image vs. footprint. I’m using a Mac, so not sure the OpenGL is even an option in that... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^ what Justin said. Ideally, yes, you would want the p and n pairs to match. In the real world, that rarely happens or is possible depending on device type. I would think you should be able to dial out most mismatches with the trimpots as well. Has anyone actually measured the THAT340s to see how well they are matched? I know with some of the Toshiba duals that I had, you could get better matches with singles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice job! KiCad perplexes me, steep learning curve.

Hmm. Opening up R9 in a sim gives ~24V with a lot of ripple. Opening R10 gives something similar to what you were seeing, output at ~11Vdc (clean).

You might be able to but I'm not sure what oddities you would see with any voltages you might want to look at. Maybe you could pull the IRM for the negative side and inject V- at the offboard reg point, powering the positive side with the internal?