Pars

I think you meant Schottky. They supposedly have lower switching noise than std. silicon rectifier diodes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes

That looks right to me, but I’m no SMT expert. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fired board #1 up tonight on a bench supply at +/-20V. Seems to be working, characteristic 58mV DC offset. At first I wasn't seeing anything across the 1R resistors, but after turning the pot clockwise, it started going up. I left it at around 158mV, which should be 150mA bias? I didn't feel any heat from the transistors, and I don't have the L bracket bolted onto a heatsink yet, so not really interested in cranking it up much. Also didn't leave it on long at all, less than 2-3 minutes.

The isolated tab. I didn't know if I had enough to220 thermal pads and shoulder washers around... I do. EDIT: Ack, Mouser. The 5K trimpots I ordered (and ordered correctly) turned out to be 25K. Label on bag was correct for 5K. Must have been a good day in order picking . They also shorted me some 560 ohm resistors, but thoughtfully provided the 4 I needed. Edit 2: I put 10K pots in with a 10K resistor in parallel. Will change to the 5K pots when Mouser fixes it.

Crap. Just noticed I ordered MJEs, not MJFs...

Happy Birthday JP!

Go back a page (April 11 post)... still haven't finished casing it yet (this winter...). Both amp boards are on the right heatsink now, and a GRLV on the left heatsink.

Which Toshibas? And it's tempting, BTW I'm just going to use my cheapie meter with hFe to see what the MJE1503xs look like instead of rigging up a jig and doing it properly.

^ I hear ya. Was struggling with trying to decide whether this would work or not. Voltage switch (115/230) with 2 transformers, and switching of the main transformer on with front power switch (e24 type functionality, but allowing line voltage selection). Relays switching both primaries of the main transformer since both would be live in the case of 115 parallel connection. Maybe I'll just use a Meanwell AC-DC brick for the relay board power (ala Soren).

A brain? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does it do hfe? If not, it would be kinda worthless for matching transistors. Not clear from the write up what exactly it does do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I’ve used Arrow in the past year for some things, as well as OnlineComponents, though they have a $50 min order. They also have some Pana TS series caps, which makes it worthwhile Got an update from USPS... order out for delivery. This is the first time I’ve had trouble with Mouser... their Econ shipping normally arrives in 2 days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mouser is pissing me off... placed an order on Sunday night. It didn’t ship until late Tuesday, using that UPS Innovations crap. Supposedly in town being transferred to USPS, but don’t know what’s up with it or when it will be delivered. I was hoping to get the CFP boards at least in a testable state this weekend. Fuckers... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I updated mine from ios10 last night. I’ll report back if anything is awry... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replaced the sigma22 PSU with a GRLV, and listened to this tonight for the first time since. Yes!

That is one shitload of parts Justin! Where do you find this stuff (I know, trade secret). As for Mouser PN for a pin strip, one that is cheap is Wurth 711-61304011121 for a 40 pin strip, $1.22. They do make these in 7 pin strips, no cutting required. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Michael! This is a 2U Modushop Dissipante case, so the heatsinks should be sufficient. They have been for the DynaFet, and it runs kinda hot. The Fet and Dynahi boards are quick swaps (relatively), and the CFP will be as well (same angle mounts and all connectors are the same). Mini rant: I had used a single pin JST connector for the outputs on the Dyna boards, since they were only setup for the hot out on the board. Digikey no longer stocks the single pin. I could order some more directly from JST, but shipping is kind of high. Oh well, either pay up, or use something else.

Have the rest of the parts incoming for an SE version of this. Already had many of the resistors in PRP/Roederstein, a few Dale. Had to order the oddballs (110, 560, 7K, 68K). Didn't have enough output transistors either. Or 5K pots (was tempted to parallel a 10K with a 10K resistor, but ordered some 5K I replaced the sigma22 I had with a GRLV I had setup in my DynaFet/Hi setup, and will use this as the testbed. GRLV is set for +/-30V; might drop that a bit, though I do have OPA445s to use. Michael: I presume the 5K pot is what sets the bias? Did you preset yours to middle? Didn't want the thing coming up biased at 2A or anything I'll probably have this ready to test (and maybe listen to) this weekend. Did you notice much difference between your initial SE and final balanced configurations sound-wise? Thanks, and once again, nice job!

Congrats Jacob (and Mrs. Reks!). Much happiness!

I've been pretty happy with my 7 since I got it this summer. It is still on 10 and apple's updates seem intent on slamming me to 11. I can't find where it has downloaded or anything, but am getting really annoyed with a screen popping up saying I need to update and giving me the options of later (as in tonight), etc. but no option for leave me the fuck alone Or Manually. This Apple isn't the one I started with, that's for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, already understood the HV stuff. Just for future reference, when you use the aluminum oxide insulators, do you also use a thin layer of silicone grease? On both sides?

Yeah, I just use whatever I have around for 1.7V red LEDs... FLV110, others through the years.

Michael, What are you using for insulators for the pass transistors on the GRLV? I was told to use the aluminum oxide insulators (4180G), but the ones you are using appear to be thinner? Reason I ask is I was blind drilling/tapping the heatsinks for these to switch the DynaFET/Hi over to a GRLV, and screw length is an issue using the aluminum oxide ones. If I could get away with something thinner, a 3/8" screw would be OK. 1/2" bottoms out, and 7/16" are hard to come by locally.

Which Dynalo are you talking about Jose? For the regular Dynalo Mk2, in my BOM I show 859-LTL-307ELC for D1, D2 (this is from the thru-hole BOM) For Kerry's Dynalo Mini, I show LTST-C170CKT (4, Red D1, D2) and VLHW4100 (1, White D4)