Pars

<Mouser rant, pt2> Not holding my breath, but perhaps a change for the better. Placed a large order on Sunday, being careful to either change parts to in stock SKUs or find elsewhere. Contacted them yesterday to change shipping to insured (duh... my mistake), so they changed it to UPS with decent rate. Get an email today that I had gotten the free upgrade to UPS Next Day. Low and behold, order actually shipped today, complete, and is supposed to arrive tomorrow... this assuming the email or article I had read regarding UPS' Louisville hub having shit going on because of the weather. Now for the fun of checking it all in (something I'd never had to do before recently). Much of it being surface mount, it might take until I start ohming shit out to determine whether they actually shipped all the right stuff or not. 60 some line items, oh joy

There’s the cash grab Stax should go for... a “Spritzer Signature” line Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The opamp in the GRLV runs single supply, so it will only see V+ or V- to gnd. OPA134, etc. is fine as long as it’s total max voltage is high enough, 36V in this case. The 9.1V zeners are fine for this as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow! RIP Dolores... and Dan and Eddie

Happy Birthday!

Mini BOM part question: For C4, C5, C6, C7, a tantalum polymer 100uf/25V cap is indicated. Not sure what is with these caps, but they seem rather expensive. All the usual suspects at Mouser run from $4-$6 each, with a couple running up to $16 ea. The ones in my BOM are all on backorder (one which was $2.91 in qty of 10 or more). Then I run across Vishay-Polytech, which is $1.79 ea, and $1.27 in qty 10 or more. Something wrong with these compared to Kemet, AVX, etc.? Just looking for something reasonably priced and IN STOCK. EDIT: wound up ordering the ones (Kemet T521X107M025ATE060) in Kerry's original BOM... figured he or Kevin chose them for a reason.

Happy Birthday Frank!

Happy Birthday John! I hope you have a great one!

I might be interested in a case group buy. I would need 3.

Yes, that is fantastic work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The THAT chips aren't between the regs and the power input for the amp sections. The input section of the amp obviously wouldn't work without something being in there. From what I'm seeing in a sim, nothing bad would happen. The outputs won't be biased, etc., but only seeing low-level voltages where I looked.

Ehhh, something sounds very wrong... the mini shouldn't load that supply that much, and it shouldn't be running that hot. Even with the PSU being plugged into the offboard reg holes, the onboard regs are still in circuit, with no easily removed component to isolate the amp channels from them (short of cutting traces). I would carefully go over the board, making sure that everything is in the right place and correctly oriented, and no solder bridges that you can see. You might also post some good pics of both sides of the board at sufficient resolution and maybe one of us might spot something.

Maybe something like this https://plugable.com/2011/07/12/installing-a-usb-serial-adapter-on-mac-os-x/ Not sure if monoprice has anything

RIP Ray and John

The schematic I have says OP27. diffinput3.PDF.pdf

How fucking intuitive .08" = 2.032 mm. .05" = 1.27mm I also take it this doesn't have anything to do with the "Resistor - European Style - 0805" in Kerry's BOM?

If you look on Mouser, for example, there is a metric case code and an In case code. There for example isn't a 0805 case code for metric, but there is for inch.

I always just use Carbon Copy Cloner on a Mac, but yeah, a fresh install, particularly on a Windows machine that likes to eat its registry, is always a good idea. I just kind of inherited a 2010 iMac from my boss (technically my boss' boss). He had asked me to help him install a new HDD into this. When I wasn't looking, he kind of ripped that fucked up LVDS video cable off the motherboard. Once we a) figured how it was supposed to go back together and 'b) got it put back together, the first time up the video came on, but with no OS, the ? screen. After turning it on/off a couple of times, no video. He then took it to the "geniuses" who told him the logic board was bad. I told him I'd take it home after pulling the new HDD for him to return. New video cable ($15) and working computer, other than it needs a drive. I had a 2T WD Green EARS drive which I seemed to recall I quit using for backup because I didn't trust it. Formatted and tossed that in (after booting from the new SSD I got for my mini). Just needs a keyboard and mouse (and a different drive as that WD is SLOWWWWW).

No, just financial CYA... based on insider info

Brings up an interesting issue... what is the difference between European style and US style SMD parts?

Arghhh! I feel for ya Nate, though I’m sure your snowblower is a lot bigger than my puny single stage. Stay safe! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks OK from what I looked at. Didn't do a full compare. Trace clearances are tight; the trace running down the left side of the right bank of diodes (when viewed text correct way up) is tight on the pads; same with the trace running between the bottom 2 rows of diodes in the left 2 banks. How big in diameter are the two caps? 35mm? EDIT: Needs MOAR outputs (make the board bigger... still small at 100 x 110

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FUCKWIT ehh?