bhjazz

Storm's 'a comin', Ma.

Good job for Tyll at this point...but only if mypasswordiszz test finds anything.

Wot? No (dollar-wise) comparison to RS2? I suppose that will come after someone gets a pair, eh?

That's why you have to take it on as a career. When you run out of discipline, your boss can fill in. BTW: Colin, how are those new JHs?

HA! Just ran into the HF Impression thread. Is this a suspect for KGs wet hair problem? http://www.head-fi.org/image/id/70014

No kidding! I couldn't find one at all. Gave up. Thank God for Head Case! Woo! d-_-b

Wear your headphones around your neck instead.

Shades of Rodney Dangerfield. I have an opportunity to get Java programming certification starting this fall. I haven't been in a classroom for I dunno how many years. Of course, I'm less worried about the time away from yardwork and housework, and more concerned about being away from inhaling solder. I'm just finishing the never ending parts list for my Bijou. Gah! Oh well, I guess pc boards don't spoil in the back of the fridge. Actually might be fun, though. I'm in QA, so now the devs here will be less likely to try to sneak shit past me.

Thanks for that. Makes sense. And (dun tada dun!) it's very similar to Darren's reply to me this morning. Nice job! Here is his reply: Brian Termination instructions for the Pro Studio are below. Do not connect both wires to the center pin. The RCA-3 is a very good connector, but it was designed for the D-75 digital cable. It might be more difficult to use this plug with the Pro Studio. We usually use our Ultimate RCA plugs with the Pro Studio. If you need more specific information, please call. Darren DH Labs Termination instructions for Pro Studio interconnect cable. RCA Plugs Source end: 1. The red wire connects to the center pin of the RCA plug. 2. The white wire and the shield connect to ground on the RCA plug. Load end: 1. The red wire connects to the center pin of the RCA plug. 2. The white wire connects to ground on the RCA plug. 3. Cut the braided shield (do not connect it) and insulate it if necessary. So you can see I'm a dork of an online shopper. D'oh! In my defense, I bought these at different times over the last month. Like that matters. Anyway, now I'm at a good point to decide if I want to just build the cables this way, or grab a few feet of D-75 wire and build some digital cables. I will continue to complicate my life further with each passing day.

No kidding. What does that even mean? So, just for fun, I've dispatched an email to DH Labs asking them how these two products should be paired. No, seriously.

Confirmed. Part 2 does, in fact, contact part 4. I took a quick look at Rane (as was suggested in my other post) and they seem to think that using the shield from end to end is their absolute best right way to do it, or words to that effect. I'll have to figure out if I can get anything connected to that sleeve inside. Maybe some time with a dremel is in order...

I double checked their site. The connector says, "optimized" for 75ohm. Hm. Might be a problem connecting the second wire to the outer ring. These fit pretty tightly together and there appears to be no facility for doing that...no gap or place to do it. I need to sit down the the DMM and check one other thing out: I think when these are assembled, part 2 contacts part 4. I'll post later today. Thanks, all!

So some parts are rolling in. I'm excited to finally get the solder iron up and running again. I'll jump on the balanced connections in a week or so, but I bought some extra wire and RCA connectors to build a pair of interconnects. I'll be using: DH Labs Pro Studio for the wire. Twisted pair inside with a shield outside (pretty standard) DH Labs RCA-3 connector. Now, the RCA-3 connector is a little different than what I have used in the past. It looks like this: It looks very much like these would be great for a digital cable (and they are 75 ohm as well). For audio, though, I have a twisted pair inside the cable with the shield outside. I'm fairly sure their idea would be that (in the pic above) the part second from the left would directly contact the shield. That makes sense. But should I just use a single wire of the twisted pair inside, or strip both 22ga wires, tie them together, and solder them as one to the center pin? I'm thinkin that would be the best use of the twisted pair, and I'm fairly sure two 22ga wires will fit down the tube. Many thanks!

I think I read that the only true way to wire these is similar to my avatar, for some reason. You can't see the multiple array of WBT connectors, but I assure you they are there.

Test it any way you want. But triple blind is a dumb idea. I still think it would win.

I'd like some comparisons. Like the Halide vs. M2Tech hiFace. Winner takes on Emprical Audio Offramp. All pointing to same dac at 24/96 (gotta keep the test controlled somehow...)

Wow Aimless, I'm celebrating my 21st anniversay tonight as well. For us, it's also bee a good 21 years, in spite of all the crap life throws at people. Congrats to you!

56 feet of Two pairs of And a set of I had pretty good luck with the Pro Studio cable and some Neutrik connectors, so I thought I'd try the DH Labs XLR connectors. I'll be building a 25' pair of balanced cables so I can move my gear to a side wall. The remaining 6' will make it into a nice little pair of unbalanced cables. I want to test them 1 to 1 against some of my other cables. Go Partsconnexion.com!

I just read a bit about the J-Low. I had no idea of it before. One thing that stuck out to me was, this comment: "...The JX92S’s didn’t go any lower in frequency than before but they picked up about 10 dB of gain centered in the 70 Hz region, and in fact became bass heavy." I'm not sure I'd like to go through that much cutting and gluing only to find that the driver wasn't going to stand up to what I was expecting. So to speak. It seems like there are going to be a lot of calculations first before you even get to power up the saw. Can you get a better driver for this so you can achieve some vomit-inducing bass? That would be pretty cool. The bass, not the vomit.

No kidding? Geez. I just ran across one by Cardas at Parts Connexion the other day. They're $62 per pair. Wow. Thanks for the tip. EDIT: Seems to me, this version of a cardas adapter might be kind of fun to build. Small, compact. Coolio.

I should probably change the title of this thread for posterity, and also because when I started the discussion, I was thinking of non-balanced cables with the ground being the shield being the...well, you know what I mean. I seem to have cause a bit of confusion. I always wonder why it follows me, then I realize I create it myself. Interesting. Thanks for all the replies. This place rocks as usual.

Okay. So I think since I am duplicating cables that already work, with all pins connected, and the shield connected at both ends...why would I do differently just because I am making a much longer version of it? I'll keep digging around, but much of what I've run across leans towards the Rane ideals. Cool enough. I was thinking of having the shield connected at just one end, and not pin 1, if anyone is keeping score! Thanks, all!

And that is precisely why I'd like to make it switchable! I'm going to do some sleuthing around here as I know Nate has mentioned it somewhere. If I head this route, I'll have to come up wiht some kind of switch that I can hang off the cable. That could either turn out really stupid looking, or tres professionalle!

I'm thinking shield. I envision some geeking-looking heat shrink with some kind of cool barrel-type appendage which houses the switch. No, I have no idea where I would find something like that.

Last year I built a pair of balanced cables to go between my Theta Pre and Classe amp. After they broke in, I was really surprised how good they sounded. I used DH Labs Pro Studio and a set of Neutrik connectors. The ground is connected at both ends. I've read that sometimes floating the ground is not a bad idea. I now realize that I could probably live with this cable for a while. Yeah, I like it! I also need to move my gear from it's current location (in between the speakers) to it's new home, in a rack along the wall and off of the damned floor. New rack is in the works. Anyway, I ordered a nice 50 foot section of DH Labs Pro Studio from Parts Connexion so that I can get the signal piped to the amp when my preamp and such are moved. The amp will stay between the speakers, 20 feet away. (Well, 20 feet of wire, anyway.) I was considering building an AudioQuest-style switch on the cable so that I could turn the grounding on or off depending on the equipment I use. All this by way of saying: am I just wasting time and energy on this? Should I just connect the grounds (since I know it sounds fine) and get back to the music? Or should I opt for a larger degree of tweakiness and figure out how to add a switch to the ground connection? Thanks!